Help with my Heat treating foge plans

C.Edmondson

C.Edmondson

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Jan 22, 2009
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Here is what I have made up to make my heat treating forge. Please excuse my microsoft paint drawings, its the best I could do. Do you guys think it will work? I have the burner placed at one end and the entry at the other end, Or should I put the burner directly under the entry? Im trying to go a good even heat. I thought about dfoggs forge but I need one that will allow me to heat treat bigger blades, Thanks you guys,Charlie
 

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Charlie,

If you need to heat treat longer blades, just get a larger diameter pipe for the Fogg-style furnace.

You have seen my set-up, and although it may not be good for 15-20 inch blades, it sure works fine for what I do.

The key to an upright forge for heat-treat is to have the burner at the bottom coming in at an angle so that the blade is never in direct contact with the burner flame.

Think "LARGE" diameter on the upright forges. Inswool and Satanite is fairly cheap, so it only cost a dime more to go first class.

Robert
 
Hey Mr. Dark!!! I gotta get up there soon and see you, I really appreciate the info, I have looked high and low for a wide diameter pipe that would fit my needs and havent came up with anything. I looked at Jesus Hernandez's website a few days ago and saw he had a heat treating forge kinda like the one I drawed up but his was a huge water heater and figured mine might work on a smaller scale but I didnt know for sure, I will holler at you later this week, Take care,Charlie
 
Have you seen Don Fogg's heat treat forge?

http://www.dfoggknives.com/photogallery/DrumForgePS/DrumForge.htm

I was going to post pretty much the same question for suggestions on building a HT forge. I have a smaller barbeque that's in great shape but the burner is gone so I was thinking I might use that. Line the bottom with refractory cement and the top with inswool.

I think Mr Fogg's idea of heating a large space rather than a smaller one is a valid one.
 
Thanks 69, I have never seen that photo before, I really appreciate you posting it, thats what I looking for, Thank you very much,Charlie
 
Charlie,
That setup won't work very well.

The burner needs to enter the forge from the side. It should enter at the tangent of the liner. It should be abut 4" from the back, and angled about 15-20 degrees forward. The thermocouple is a little more accurate if it is going down the center , but the setup you have will work if the probe is in a thermocouple well ( the tip should;d be at the center of the chamber if possible).

Stacy
 
Ok so how would this look, heres another picture off of micro soft paint. I have the forge burner tilted going into the forge, I would also make sure the burner was where the flame would rool into the chamber, Thank you very much Stacy, Man you help me out alot on here and I appreciate it alot,Charlie
 

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I forgot , heres a picture of my forge, It has alot of hot spots inside of it and I am trying to get a even heat, Thanks again,Charlie
 

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C.Edmondson said:
Ok so how would this look, heres another picture off of micro soft paint. I have the forge burner tilted going into the forge, I would also make sure the burner was where the flame would rool into the chamber, Thank you very much Stacy, Man you help me out alot on here and I appreciate it alot,Charlie
Click to expand...

You need to do it more like this. you want the burner entering just below the insulation on the top and you want it to go in straight, not tilted up or down. then you want it pointing towards the frount just a bit but not very much. here is a picture. or drawing to say. i will se if i can dig up a picture of my forge.

attachment.php


ok i found my pictures, you can make it like this to any size you want.

front%20rest.jpg


front.jpg


back%20rest.jpg
 

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Hey Jt, do you get a even heat out of that forge? Mines similar but I get hot spots in mine, Thanks for the drawings, I really appreciate it,Charlie
 
well your never going to get no hot spots but my for does a very good job. right where the burner hits the curved wall its a bit hotter but once its up to temp it is very even. i have it pid controlled so i just set the temp temp i want and leave it.
 
bladsmth said:
Charlie,
Is your forge round or square inside?
Stacy
Click to expand...

thats what i was wondering, mine is not totaly round as i added the floor. but the floor is rounded a bit to keep flux off the wall if i want to use it for forge welding. but it works great.
 
THe burner does not need to enter from the side. The fogg/fikes design that enters from the "front" at the bottom works very, very well. Your blade is out of the flame, and you get a very even heat. The h/t forge im using is over 5 feet long, and has very little heat deviation.
 
I made my hard firebrick forge like that, with the burner entering from the rear and it worked quite well and heated quite evenly. Ultimately the firebricks weren't a long term solution and started breaking up but I believe I will put the burner entering from the end in my HT forge.

I lucked out yesterday, when I got home I found my friend getting rid of 3 20# propane tanks so I said THANK YOU, I'll take those... well two of them anyway.
 
RMLamey said:
THe burner does not need to enter from the side. The fogg/fikes design that enters from the "front" at the bottom works very, very well. Your blade is out of the flame, and you get a very even heat. The h/t forge im using is over 5 feet long, and has very little heat deviation.
Click to expand...

with something that large its allmost like a vertical forge that is used for Damascus.
 
Charlie I just went back and looked at the pic of your forge. One problem I see is your burner shoots straight into the forge.


Here is a pic of my forge. Ed Caffrey seen a pic of it and helped to redesign the angle of the burner. It is angled up in such and angle that the flame will shoot around the pipe to creat a vortex effect within the forge and help to eliminate hot spots.



Click the pic and it will open to a larger view, but think of it like this. The flame must enter the circle in such a way the it tends to make its own circular motion,(like a marble rolling around and around in a Jar) instead of having to stike a surface and bounce off of it, the 90*angle too the pipe is what creates hot spots! The vortex will help to eliminate the hot spots.
Excuse the crude drawing but this illustrates what I am trying to say. The top pic is how the burner should be aimed to help avoid hot spots not like the one on the bottom.

000_1156.jpg


Hope that helps! Anybody who would sell me there Hay Budden deserves a steer in the right direction!
 
Hey Dixie!!! What you been up to man? I really appreciate the drawings, Hows the old anvil holding up, Take care and again thatnk you very much for the drawings,Charlie
 
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