Help with the MUK . . .

Use in the kitchen is one of my uses for sure, but I think anyone who tries one will find it to be a sleeper that functions far beyond it's looks. ;) Sometimes stepping out of your circle of comfort is enlightening. :eek:
 
someone should do some photoshops with different colored handles to help us all choose.
 
someone should do some photoshops with different colored handles to help us all choose.

That's what I'm going through too. No photoshop, but taking from what we have (correct me if I'm wrong):

pumpkin/black G10
MUK7.jpg


green/black G10
HOGMuk.jpg


black G10
HOGMukBlk2.jpg


minimuk tan/black G10
MiniMuk2.jpg


We can also look at the Boss Jack LE with the same options:
bossjack_le_finish.jpg
 
That's what I'm going through too. No photoshop, but taking from what we have (correct me if I'm wrong):

pumpkin/black G10
MUK7.jpg


green/black G10
HOGMuk.jpg


black G10
HOGMukBlk2.jpg


minimuk tan/black G10
MiniMuk2.jpg


We can also look at the Boss Jack LE with the same options:
bossjack_le_finish.jpg

you got it my friend, nice job.:thumbup:
 
Mine will be kinda like a Bushtype blade since it can do a lot of jobs. AZTIM has it right, I got a Scrap Muk when they came out and I love it. Black micarta, it will darken up with use.
 
The pro's and con's of the design seem to me to be :

Pro's ;
- The curve of the blade is helpful for skinning if putting your fore finger along the spine you have a rocking motion which assists with skinning .
- The raised handle and the edge being lower should assist with rocking cuts on food preperation .... it depends though on your hand size .... with women it should work ...
- The slight sharpening of the point clip would assist with a strike point for a ferro rod ...enabling the spine to be used and give the option of rounding the spine from the clip for comfort ....

Con's;
- The curved blade does'nt work as well for cuts on wood ... the curve prevents power cuts biting as deep as a straight blade and feels like it slip's ...
- The curve and depth of the point profile give a large amount of resistance to stabbing ... so stabbing a deer carcass in the chest cavity to bleed it out after it is shot is'nt as efficient as a straight blade but with a deer you are'nt encountering a tough obstacle ... pigs though will show this much more ...
- For many guys the depth of the edge and raise on the handle will not be enough to enable a rocking motion for food prep in the same way a deeper Sanktou or other chef's style knife can be used ...
- Reaming work with the tip would not be as simple as using a straight blade drop point ... it is'nt as "pointy" as you would want to do bushcraft work such as reaming a hole for carving a needle ...
- On skinning I personally can work as well with a straight blade which has some belly on the tip ... such as a spear point ... as I can with an upswept curved blade when I have to use the knife ... but mostly I find I use my hands once I have done an initial cut and then once I have the skin peeled back over the shoulders I just pull it away ... I don't seem to do many cuts with deer ... pig's maybe more so ... but a true skinning knife has only been needed for large hard hide and again peeling or pulling a hide away from the carcass is still an option I favour as it is much faster ...

My thoughts .... I have a lot of respect for the Muk design but personally prefer a straight blade for the benefit of cutting wood ... my smaller knife tends to do more work on wood than work where the curved belly would be an over all advantage .... and when using it on carcass work I have'nt found a straight blade to be a disadvantage either ... so if I wanted to just carry the one small knife a normal drop point would be my choice .... but the Muk is still a good woodsman's knife ...
 
Definite kitchen work. It might actually one-up my SAR5. Likely a better handle, same close-to-the-blade feel. I can't wait.
 
As other have said one for the kitchen and one for critters. They only bad thing about kitchen use is that it will be to heavy for my magnetic rack and that the handles arent epoxy sealed make rust an issue.
 
As other have said one for the kitchen and one for critters. They only bad thing about kitchen use is that it will be to heavy for my magnetic rack and that the handles arent epoxy sealed make rust an issue.

Ooo, didn't think about that. That is a bummer . . . but I think I can live with that.:D
 
After reading everyone's comments, I'm definately going to have to get one for my wife to use in the kitchen. The hard part will be convincing her she needs one knife that costs as much as the whole set she uses now!! Hopefully, when I explain to her that this is one of the cheaper Busses...she'll understand. Or will she??? She might come back with "if this is one of the cheaper ones, how much is an expensive one?" That's when I'll be in DEEP TROUBLE:eek:
 
After reading everyone's comments, I'm definately going to have to get one for my wife to use in the kitchen. The hard part will be convincing her she needs one knife that costs as much as the whole set she uses now!! Hopefully, when I explain to her that this is one of the cheaper Busses...she'll understand. Or will she??? She might come back with "if this is one of the cheaper ones, how much is an expensive one?" That's when I'll be in DEEP TROUBLE:eek:

Mark, you could get yourself in trouble there. I just told my wife it was a few hundred bucks and she didn't really think much of it. She doesn't need to know there are $2000+ Busse knives out there. ;):D
 
As other have said one for the kitchen and one for critters. They only bad thing about kitchen use is that it will be to heavy for my magnetic rack and that the handles arent epoxy sealed make rust an issue.

How would you go about epoxy sealing the handle?

Is this really a big factor? Hunting knives used for cleaning/skinning/butchering game seem to survive.

I definitely see my muk getting some meat carving use.
 
Mine will be a general use knife. I am concerned now that I picked the wrong handle material. I went for G10 for the durability, and non moisture absorbing properties.

From my own use Canvas micarta, and it seems, paper micarta do actually absorb moisture (as in take in or emit fluids) because of material its self. Canvas has exposed canvas fibers. Not too sure about Paper micarta. but seems to be "softer" in the hand, and it is not as "color" fast as G10. Meaning it yellows with age, and seems to accept fluid as well (even if only surface absorption)

That said,

I love the look and feel of Tan canvas on my users. I also love the feel of the Black Paper micarta on my hands. Though I have not gotten it all bloody. (If I had the money I would have gotten multiple colors and materials).

I use non sealed wood handles on kitchen knives all the time without really worrying about it.

People have been using natural materials for handles for as long as they have been making tools, so Paper micarta or Canvas micarta are going to be light years better than many natural handles at handling a variety of adverse conditions.

I just wish Blaze Orange was an available color option on most Busse's. I think that would have taken the cake here!

I also just realized that the OD green g10 was an option......also a color I like!

Too many options, and not enough money. The first is a great thing, the second not so much.



Any of the materials will be just fine.

How would you go about epoxy sealing the handle?

Is this really a big factor? Hunting knives used for cleaning/skinning/butchering game seem to survive.

I definitely see my muk getting some meat carving use.

I believe he is referring to the fact that Busse handles are attached by the flared rivets, not by epoxy or adhesive. There fore there is no physical barrier under the handle scales to keep moisture off the tang.

Not too much of an issue with Infi, especially if it is finished well under the scales.

Just treat it like a knife and it will be fine.

I won't be running mine through the dish washer, because it is not great for your edges.

I try to discourage the wife from putting kitchen knives in there either.

I sharpened a several of our nice knives, and the next time I went to do it, the eges were full of small dings. That is what happens when you put them in the silverware drawer with other silverware to bang against the edge.
 
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