Hi, I'm new... and also an idiot.

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This is what the monstrosity looks like. Have a laugh at my expense.
 
Not a bad start at all on my opinion. It's leaps and bounds ahead of some of the prison shanks with a 2x4" handle that new makers have posted - they aren't always suited to even be prison shanks... And at least you gave heat treating a shot, you probably did improve the hardness, you may just have less martensite than you want. I'm a new maker too and I just did an O1 heat treat with a coffee can lined with refractory clay and a map gas torch with a 8-10 minute soak. I'm sure I done goofed and using a torch sucks; but my knives did get harder and that's how we learn. I'm going to finish them up and test a couple until fracture then take the bits into my proff's microscopy lab and learn what I can do better. Success should be measured by how much you learn and improve. It is important to play with all different kinds of metals and figure out what you like best.
 
Spend some time in the stickies. Its a lot to take in, and rereading it several times expands the awareness each read. So much of it was/is over my head, but I get something new with each read.
 
No one is laughing at you.....that looks pretty good.
A few comments:
1) The steel looks like 1/4". It will be much more functional and lighter at 1/8". Take out some knifes you own and micrometer the spines. Most run from 1/16 to 1/8" max.. Really thick bales are often only 3/16".
2) The waist of the handle is a bit narrow. It isn't too thin, but a tad wider won't hurt on the next knife.
3) What is the steel?
 
Stacy makes good points there. I think it looks decent, too. I also think that your attitude is suitable for this forum precisely because you profess to be an idiot... I try to remember that I'm one, too. Welcome and if I see you asking anything I can help with, I will.

In addition to echoing that you should try some 1080 or 1084, I'll mention to consider sending that first blade to Darrin Sanders for HT. Tell him it needs normalized first, to set it up for quenching, and then to quench it as O1. His prices are low for single knives and according to all his service can't be beat. Darrin is a member here in shoptalk.
 
No one is laughing at you.....that looks pretty good.
A few comments:
1) The steel looks like 1/4". It will be much more functional and lighter at 1/8". Take out some knifes you own and micrometer the spines. Most run from 1/16 to 1/8" max.. Really thick bales are often only 3/16".
2) The waist of the handle is a bit narrow. It isn't too thin, but a tad wider won't hurt on the next knife.
3) What is the steel?

Yeah, it is 1/4". Immediately upon getting it, I realized it was a bit too thick. Figured it couldn't hurt to practice on, though. It's O1 from Aldo. And I did realize the handle was narrow. With the way I initially cut the blank out, I kinda forced myself to thin it out in order to get the choil rounded off. I won't make that mistake again.

Thanks for the advice and the encouragement. It is sincerely appreciated.
 
Stacy makes good points there. I think it looks decent, too. I also think that your attitude is suitable for this forum precisely because you profess to be an idiot... I try to remember that I'm one, too. Welcome and if I see you asking anything I can help with, I will.

In addition to echoing that you should try some 1080 or 1084, I'll mention to consider sending that first blade to Darrin Sanders for HT. Tell him it needs normalized first, to set it up for quenching, and then to quench it as O1. His prices are low for single knives and according to all his service can't be beat. Darrin is a member here in shoptalk.

Will do. And thanks for the offer for help. Again, it is much appreciated. I'm gonna be doing a lot of reading on the forums to kinda bring myself up to speed and I'll be sure to pick your brain when I've got something come up in my head.
 
Okay, so a buddy of mine came over with some Rockwell files? Said the heat treat took.

I don't know shit about, so I took his word.

Slapped a handle on today. My only real complaint is one of the pins being crooked.

That aside, I took the knife and abused the hell out of it once the handle was on. It batons through hardwood with ease and and shows no stress from twisting while embedded in the wood. Even after a solid 10 minutes of abuse, it still shaved(albeit with a bit of effort).

Is it perfect? No. And that pisses me off. I want perfect on the first go. But I know that's not realistic. So I'll continue to learn as I go and improve. And improve, I will. Mark my words. As I prefaced earlier, I'm a very very stubborn man. I'm quite determined to get better at this.

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Nice work!

You'll really like the 1084, it rocks! I think you are off to a great start and found the right place if you need help.
 
Nice job man. I am new to making knives as well and this seems to be a great first attempt! I look forward to seeing some of your future knives.
 
I think it looks good for a first knife. Don't be so hard on yourself. It is a nice, usable shape and looks really handy.

The only critiques I have are that you seem to have "blocky-handle syndrome", the part of the handle near the choil looks too thin, and, as you pointed out, your pin placement could use some work. Try and round out the handle better on your next one, make the cross-section more tear drop/egg shaped with the widest portion at the top. It will feel much more comfortable and will look better.
 
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