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HI Scramsax/Seax/Saex Design Thread

Discussion in 'Himalayan Imports' started by Daniel Koster, Jan 22, 2003.

  1. Daniel Koster

    Daniel Koster www.kosterknives.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 18, 2001
    Here we go...;)

    The top 5 are drawings taken from a handful of scramsaxes taken from the other thread and the links provided.

    Below the yellow line are 3 designs highlighting (hopefully :rolleyes: ) the best parts of all the scramsaxes I saw.

    Give your input as to which you like best and what handle material. Or perhaps, did I leave out one you would like to see?


    Here's a closeup of the 3 designs:


    For now, I'll spare you the design process, grid, etc. :rolleyes: :D

    [edited to add]

    I edited the original pictures to have a number for the blade and a letter for the handle. Put what combination you would like best and the handle material, of course...;)

    Also: Overall length is 12"
  2. Ankerson

    Ankerson Knife and Computer Geek Platinum Member Gold Member

    Nov 2, 2002
    I like 1. With Handle B :D

    With a horn handle it would be sweet. :)
  3. Bobwhite


    Nov 30, 1999
    I like the top blade, with the bottom handle though. Wood or horn, no preference there. C is my choice of those there however.
  4. Bill Martino

    Bill Martino

    Mar 5, 1999
    A would be easiest to make and probably because of that cheapest. Curved handles are a pain.
  5. Daniel Koster

    Daniel Koster www.kosterknives.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 18, 2001
    1A = 2
    1B = 0
    1C = 1
    2A = 0
    2B = 0
    2C = 0
    3A = 0
    3B = 0
    3C = 0
    Other = 0

    Wood = 0
    Horn = 1
    Either = 1
  6. Sylvrfalcn


    Jun 4, 2002
    I'm still vainfully attached to my design (second from the top in the first illustration). Look at the handle. Enough swell toward the bolster that your hand won't ride up in a stab, and just enough swell to the pommel that the thing won't fly out of your hand if you swing it hard. The downcurved handle in example "C" accomplishes much the same function in my experience. By not having the handle directly in line with the blade, the hand has less chance of slipping in a hard thrust. With all respect to the kamis, I'm not sure a cho has a place on an Anglo/Norse weapon.

  7. Aardvark


    Nov 26, 2002

    Material numbers on your running tally don't seem to match your key, or am I being dense again?

  8. Daniel Koster

    Daniel Koster www.kosterknives.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 18, 2001
    They'll put it in whether I draw it in or not...:rolleyes:

    The final design will have to be a compromise between what we want and what they are used to doing 50-100 times a day. Otherwise it will get stuck in design limbo with each one coming back differently. I might be able to push the no-cho idea a little. But still, you never know until it gets here anyway...:(

    Just look at how much turmoil the YCS, AK Bowie, etc. have all caused...and then there's the "N2S Special"...:D
  9. Daniel Koster

    Daniel Koster www.kosterknives.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 18, 2001
    Density has its place...:D:D

    I decided to not post it as a poll since so few members can vote. So bear with me as I try to keep up with the running tally.
  10. Daniel Koster

    Daniel Koster www.kosterknives.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 18, 2001
    1A = 1 (Bill's pragmatism)
    1B = 1
    1C = 1
    2A = 0
    2B = 0
    2C = 0
    3A = 0
    3B = 0
    3C = 1 (Bob's 2nd place vote)
    Other = 1 (Sarge's vanity...:p )

    Wood = 0
    Horn = 1
    Either = 1
  11. MauiRob

    MauiRob Gold Member Gold Member

    Nov 15, 2000
    I think handle design B would be easiest for you kamis to pull off because it looks just like a Khuk handle without the ring and interior taper.

    BUT, I won't be ordering one so you can tell me to take my opinion and shove it if you like:D
  12. Josh Feltman

    Josh Feltman

    Feb 12, 2001
    I like 2-B, but I would buy any one of those if it gets produced.
  13. Bobwhite


    Nov 30, 1999
    Now that I am looking again, 3b or 3c looks good too. I think that no matter what we want we will get what the kamis actually do. So as long as it is close to any of those, I'd enjoy it. It would need a traditional horizontal carry sheath of course. Have it ride right across the rear of the pelvis. Another inch or two to the blade would be nice as well.
  14. ACStudios


    Apr 9, 2001
    I agree with Sarge on his design. Having the handle taper wouldn't (shouldn't) be hard at all since it just means a bit more stock removal from the end of the handle...

    I would prefer 3C of the three choices (if Sarge's is completely out of the question), but I know it is a pain to make...

    SO, I suppose I'd go with 3 A for a compromise :)

    NOW if the handle could be Spotted Deer Antler with silver bolsters :D:D:D

    (who is ducking and running for cover)
  15. beoram


    Nov 27, 2001
    I like Sarge's idea too for the tapered handle. That seems the easier than a curved handle and much better than a uniform straight handle, from a usability standpoint.

    So blade 1 (I like the slight upswept tip) with tapered handle (2nd from top of unlabeled pic).
  16. Daniel Koster

    Daniel Koster www.kosterknives.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Oct 18, 2001
    Re: Sarge's tapered handle request

    I believe the 2nd handle (B) is a dressed up version of Sarge's handle. It can be made wider at the bolster, if you like. But it is definitely tapered.

    I guess I should have provided dimensions...

    The handles are 1.20" to 1.25" Diameter at the bolster. That's pretty beefy for a 12" knife. The fattest Khuk I've held - a Garud - is only 1.56". So, these are some hefty handles.

    Here's a comparison with the 12" AK and 12.5" Pen Knife:


    See how handle "B" is larger at the bolster than either the AK or the Pen Knife?

    AK ~ 1.0"
    Pen Knife ~ 1.10"
    Kumar Karda ~ 1.05"

    Most of the 15" to 18" khuks have ~ 1.25" bolsters such as the BAS, GRS, YCS, AK, etc. The Sirupati and GS have smaller bolsters ~ 1.15"

    Anyway, I really did try to incorporate as many of the ideas that were presented in the threads - into the knife designs.

    Keep the comments coming, though...
  17. Sylvrfalcn


    Jun 4, 2002
    If I've got time I'll whittle a wooden model of 2B with 1A's blade. Funny thing though, my carving knife will probably slip a time or two around those pommel horns, so it might wind up with a less dramatically flared pommel.:D

  18. Kismet


    Jan 30, 2002
    3 c

    All lovely work.
  19. Yvsa


    May 18, 1999
    I'm with Sarge too!!!!
    The 2nd one down shows the best description of a real Seax IMO as well.

    Dan I'm also with Sarge on the cho. I would try leaving it out as the only thing the kamis consider a real khukuri is a bent blade with a cho in it.
    If it doesn't have the cho then it's not a "real" khukuri and since this is a straight blade I don't think the kamis will put it in unless it's drawn or carved into the model.
    After all there's no cho on the Cherokee Rose.:)
  20. Sylvrfalcn


    Jun 4, 2002
    Well dadgum, now I've got a swelled head. Thanks for the kind words ACS, Beo, and Yvsa. To misquote Forrest Gump; "I'm not a smart man Jenny, but I know what seax is...."


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