- Joined
- Dec 11, 2006
- Messages
- 1,659
Please forgive me.....I tend to get long winded when it comes to axes. But, I can't help it. I love them and think they are one of the most versatile tools for the woods.
But.....the poor hand axe. Think about it; If you are at home, or in a large base camp where weight is not an issue, you can have your choice of axes. One for splitting (a splitting axe or maul), one for limbing, one for bucking, one for felling, etc.
Not the case with the hand axe. Since size is usually the issue, it is generally called upon to do ALL these things, and do them well. That is why I am always after the most high performance hand axe...PERIOD.
What I am looking for my be different from what you are looking for. I am not interested in explaining away performance differences between two axes due to 3 or 4 oz's difference in head weight, or 1" longer handle, etc. I am looking for the most performance in a specific size package. For me, that means one that will fit in or on my daypack easily. That being said, it is going to be something generally in the 17" to 20" handle range.
There has been lots of talk of famous axes in that size.
Now, let's get specific. Here are the things I have called upon my axe to do, or want it to do as best as possible.
- Cut like an knife. So, it must be sharp.
- Make fuzz sticks.
- Process game.
- Buck wood into length (cutting cross grain, and throwing chips).
- Splitting wood.
- Batoning wood.
- Use as a hammer on tent peg duty, or heavier duty (on wood only) such as making camp furniture, and driving large wooden poles in the ground.
- Other bushcraft tasks.
Here is what I have come up with. A modified Snow and Nealley 19" axe.
Step number 1: For bucking wood (cross grain) cutting like a knife an a lot of cutting ability, a nice sharp convex edge is a must.
Most people with a belt sander, or patience to do this by hand can set that up easy enough.
Another not so difficult one is taking care of the handle.
My axe started off like this:
I sanded the handle down extremely SMOOTH. I then did multiple coats of linseed oil, followed by a beeswax treatment. It is nice to hold.
Now, on to the performance after you get beyond the first inch or so of the edge. Now we will look at making the axe penetrate wood.
When you lay a flat piece of wood against the head, you can see the two contact areas of concern.
To be continued......
But.....the poor hand axe. Think about it; If you are at home, or in a large base camp where weight is not an issue, you can have your choice of axes. One for splitting (a splitting axe or maul), one for limbing, one for bucking, one for felling, etc.
Not the case with the hand axe. Since size is usually the issue, it is generally called upon to do ALL these things, and do them well. That is why I am always after the most high performance hand axe...PERIOD.
What I am looking for my be different from what you are looking for. I am not interested in explaining away performance differences between two axes due to 3 or 4 oz's difference in head weight, or 1" longer handle, etc. I am looking for the most performance in a specific size package. For me, that means one that will fit in or on my daypack easily. That being said, it is going to be something generally in the 17" to 20" handle range.
There has been lots of talk of famous axes in that size.
Now, let's get specific. Here are the things I have called upon my axe to do, or want it to do as best as possible.
- Cut like an knife. So, it must be sharp.
- Make fuzz sticks.
- Process game.
- Buck wood into length (cutting cross grain, and throwing chips).
- Splitting wood.
- Batoning wood.
- Use as a hammer on tent peg duty, or heavier duty (on wood only) such as making camp furniture, and driving large wooden poles in the ground.
- Other bushcraft tasks.
Here is what I have come up with. A modified Snow and Nealley 19" axe.
Step number 1: For bucking wood (cross grain) cutting like a knife an a lot of cutting ability, a nice sharp convex edge is a must.
Most people with a belt sander, or patience to do this by hand can set that up easy enough.
Another not so difficult one is taking care of the handle.
My axe started off like this:
I sanded the handle down extremely SMOOTH. I then did multiple coats of linseed oil, followed by a beeswax treatment. It is nice to hold.
Now, on to the performance after you get beyond the first inch or so of the edge. Now we will look at making the axe penetrate wood.
When you lay a flat piece of wood against the head, you can see the two contact areas of concern.
To be continued......
