Higonokami Build (WIP) **Pic Heavy**

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Back again.

Blade is done etching. I put some gun oil on it and stuck it in a hot box for several hours.
I dug this thing out of the junkyard a few years ago. As far as I know it used to live in an airplane
and heated food. So it's insulated well, and I just drilled a hole in the top and wired a light bulb in.


Gave the handle a patina. I like Jax better than liver of sulfur for copper.
The problem with Jax chemicals is that they're almost all considered hazardous when shipped.
If you can find it somewhere you can pick it up do it and save all that shipping.


Took the black off the high parts by rubbing pumice over it with my thumb.


Everyone is here. Well, that is just a working pin. I'm going to cut a new one in the next step.


I use a long length of pin stock for this part. First, I mark how long I want the pin to be.


Now I put one of the washers in the handle and on the pin stock.
The blade goes in, and then I slide the other washer in.
I position the washer with another piece of shim stock until I can push the pin stock through.


Next, I clamp the pieces in place. This lets me take the pin out and cut it to length without having to reposition the blade and washers.
I use a ring clamp (another jeweler's tool), but anything that won't scratch up the pattern or put too much pressure should work.
I cut the pin to length, file a little bevel on either end and put it back in the knife.


When I pin these together I slide another piece of shim stock around the pin to keep from getting too tight as I peen the pin.
I also tape the blade shut so I don't have to worry about it moving around.


I peen the pin evenly on both sides with the shim in. After I have a good head on the pin I take the shim out.
At this point I take the tape off so I can move the blade around and check the snugness.
Now I carefully peen more to tighten the pivot.


The knife is almost done. Next, I put an edge on the blade.
After I have the knife done I move on to the pocket sheath.
I didn't take pictures of that process, but it's a fold over pouch.



So here it is.

• twist damascus (15n20 & 1084)
• textured copper handle
• bronze washers
• stainless pin
• leather pocket sheath

• 7 3/8" open
• 4 3/4" closed (including the flipper)
• approx. 3/4" wide (excluding the flipper)
• 3 1/8" blade (plunge to tip)
• 3/32" thick at the spine















Thank you all for having a look. I hope you've enjoyed this as much as I have.
If you have any questions let me know. I'll try to answer them.

I don't know if I can plug this (mods, let me know and I'll edit this out if it's a problem),
but if you're into Instagram my account is in my signature.
I put a lot of things up there in process that I'm working on.

Thanks again,
Shelby
 
this is a great tutorial / wip. I really enjoyed it, and I want to try it myself. I want to make a folder for myself, and this could be the ticket.

I may have missed this, so forgive me, but is there anything that holds the copper channel open for the handle (it seems like anything would get in the way, but then copper folds sort of easily at times)?

Would it be ok to put the copper around a piece of sacrificial steel and texture it after folding and shaping, so you could get a nice work-hardened effect on the copper?

very cool knife, and thanks a ton for showing the process so well.
 
kevin -the professor said:
this is a great tutorial / wip. I really enjoyed it, and I want to try it myself. I want to make a folder for myself, and this could be the ticket.

I may have missed this, so forgive me, but is there anything that holds the copper channel open for the handle (it seems like anything would get in the way, but then copper folds sort of easily at times)?

Would it be ok to put the copper around a piece of sacrificial steel and texture it after folding and shaping, so you could get a nice work-hardened effect on the copper?

very cool knife, and thanks a ton for showing the process so well.
Click to expand...



hey thanks. i'm glad you liked this and got something out of it.

nothing holds the channel open besides the spine of the copper piece.

i guess i didn't specifically mention it, but the folding process does work harden the copper.
and the further flattening with the rawhide while it's on the steel plate hardens it more.

i've made several of these, and they all seem to harden up well. and i haven't had any issues with it wanting to close up.

if you're still worried you could try a different material for the handle.
i've made a few with just mild steel as the handle, and i'm working on a stainless one at the moment.
those get in to different issues mostly in the folding because you have to fold them hot.
brass would harden more than copper, but i'm not a fan of brass.

and you could texture it after you fold it, but then the spine wouldn't really have a pattern.

hope i answered your question somewhere in there.

thanks again,
shelby
 
I might have missed this among the gorgeous pictures of the manufacturing process, but does the blade use the ricasso as a stop against the handle when closed, or does the edge hit the back of the handle?

I'm aware that the question might be asinine, but I've got several knives in which the edge hits the back of the handle or spring (I'm looking at Buck knives here) and I can't figure out if this does the same or if there's any risk for it after a while if the ricasso digs into the metal.
 
Very cool Shelby! I loved the ones you had at BLADE. Seeing the process makes me want to try it. Thanks for all the pics! I've gotten a steady stream of compliments on the ring Adam got me from you. Keep up the good work!

HD
 
LeonJ said:
I might have missed this among the gorgeous pictures of the manufacturing process, but does the blade use the ricasso as a stop against the handle when closed, or does the edge hit the back of the handle?

I'm aware that the question might be asinine, but I've got several knives in which the edge hits the back of the handle or spring (I'm looking at Buck knives here) and I can't figure out if this does the same or if there's any risk for it after a while if the ricasso digs into the metal.
Click to expand...

Depending on the shape of the blade either the edge will hit the back of the handle or the ricasso will be the stop.
Some people will put a stop pin right near the spine and the inlet for the flipper to keep this from happening.
I don't usually because sometimes it lifts the point of the blade up and I'd have to compensate with a wider/fatter handle.
 
DesRosiers said:
Very cool Shelby! I loved the ones you had at BLADE. Seeing the process makes me want to try it. Thanks for all the pics! I've gotten a steady stream of compliments on the ring Adam got me from you. Keep up the good work!

HD
Click to expand...


Hey Haley! Make one. They're a lot of fun. Glad you and others are liking the ring.
 
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