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I wouldn't take it apart unless he isn't going to try and request a refund. I know if I sold a knife on the secondary market and then the buyer tried to return it after taking it apart that would be a no no.
I aftee that the OP's hole looks drilled.If I compare the size of the hole to the letters USA S35vn in Photoman's picture to the letter size compared to the hole in witty's picture it looks to me like photoman's may have an altered hole after all.
Look at the letter A of USA in Photoman's pic. The detent hole is big enough it could completely cover the A. Now look at witty's pic. The detent hole is way smaller than the A in USA.
I realize you can't actually compare by photos due to angle differences and whatever. If you look closely though and compare detent hole size to letter size it looks like it may have been altered.
Also isn't there something else on this knife stopping the blade from over closing other than a detent? For example the stop pin contacts part of the blade near the heel of the blade.
This thread hits home because I just discovered a chipped edge on my Spyderco s90v sprint Yojimbo 2. For the same reason-blade hit post,nicked the post and chipped the blade. And I have never done a dam thing to it. It was mint like out of the box new prior to that. I am sick. Now I gotta sharpen the crap out of it to get that out and it will never be like new again. I am sick because this was one of my pride and joys and wanted to keep it like new as long as I owned it.
Mine has space too and that is why I am dumbfounded. There is a nic in the post where the blade is chipped so it clearly hit there. I don’t get it. Honestly, crap like this makes me want to just carry and own cheap pieces of crap and if this stuff happens just throw it out and buy another. Could do that 10x for the price of one of these expensive knives. Ugh.
But sorry for deflecting the thread. Just frustrated.
I bought my knife directly from DLT brand new. I trust them. I probably wasting my time sharpening it as it will just get chipped again.
Whitty, I respectfully disagree. The stop pin is what stops the blade on both "open" and "closed" positions. On open it must "time" with the lockbar snapping behind the tang (on a RIL/linerlock) and with the detent falling in place on "close". Enlarging the hole shouldn't allow standoff/backspacer contact with the blade if the stop pin is engaging the frame (on a blade mounted setup like the Halftrack).This is why I think the knife had an alteration to the detent hole. When this happens they take the knife to test it but only put the knife back on the pivot and lockside. When they are pushing on it to see if it works, it slips up and off from the stop pins and hits the post. I have seen it on more than just Hinderer knives from customers who openly admit what they did. I have even had a customer bring his knife in to show me how he did it and ask me how to fix it.
Whitty, I respectfully disagree. The stop pin is what stops the blade on both "open" and "closed" positions. On open it must "time" with the lockbar snapping behind the tang (on a RIL/linerlock) and with the detent falling in place on "close". Enlarging the hole shouldn't allow standoff/backspacer contact with the blade if the stop pin is engaging the frame (on a blade mounted setup like the Halftrack).
Hey all,
Mr. Hinderer replied to my inquiry personally which I really appreciated. Below is an excerpt from what he said. He offered to look at it but the seller offered to let me return it so that’s the route I’m going. It’s just more than I want to deal with.
“...in fact the way the knife is designed with the internal stop pin being both the locking point and the stop pin on the closing point and with the internal tracks milled into both the lockside and the liner side it is actually impossible for it to be doing that unless it was altered...“
He also said that it might be possible that Eklipse standoffs were installed on it which could cause the issue.