Hogue Deka Magnacut - but those scales …

Skar said:
No... my example has been smooth.
The click on mine is the lock engaging that's it.
I dressed some micarta from rc bladeworks. Made the knife completely better.
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That looks great - is that the Natural black?
 
DocJekl said:
I have the CPM-20CV version with sturdy G-Mascus scales and really like it a lot. I have avoided the Magnacut version with cheap flexible scales just as I have avoided the Bugout models all these years.

I had considered buying a Magnacut version and swapping the scales, and then selling the 20CV with the polymer scales, for a cheaper route than aftermarket scales, but decided to just wait for a Magnacut version with better scales from the factory (or like the SMKW Scorpion etc).
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I had been waiting for a G10 Magnacut Wharncliffe. (CF versions have been more than I want to pay.)

When I saw the Hogue sales recently, I decided to pull the trigger on the Magnacut. Once I can get the Bladescales G10 scales, the total price shouldn't be much more than a new 20CV G-mascus (well, prior to the recent BF pricing!)

I also looked at this as a learning project. I use or intend to use my knives, so I personally don't need to make a knife look better or make it unique for a collection. That and I didn't want to pay extra for aftermarket scales! But, this Magnacut provides an opportunity to come out with a better knife at not much extra cost.
 
Lawilli2 said:
As the bar of the ABLE lock serves the function of “detent” as it rises over the center of the tang, and must slide back as the blade is flipped out, i would start with a drop of nano-10 just behind the lock bar on each side, and slide it back and forth a few times. If it continues, i would do a disassembly and see if the retention wires are catching on the inner side of the scales. Of course, if you have scales on order, you will be doing that eventually anyway.
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Thanks, the oil helped. The clicking is the same, so it seems to be unrelated to the tightness. Will figure it all out when I open it up.
 
_cl said:
I had been waiting for a G10 Magnacut Wharncliffe. (CF versions have been more than I want to pay.)

When I saw the Hogue sales recently, I decided to pull the trigger on the Magnacut. Once I can get the Bladescales G10 scales, the total price shouldn't be much more than a new 20CV G-mascus (well, prior to the recent BF pricing!)

I also looked at this as a learning project. I use or intend to use my knives, so I personally don't need to make a knife look better or make it unique for a collection. That and I didn't want to pay extra for aftermarket scales! But, this Magnacut provides an opportunity to come out with a better knife at not much extra cost.
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The BF sale price at about $20 more for G-Mascus is the only reason I bought the CPM-20CV version. If Magnacut with polymer was all they had on sale I’d have either skipped it entirely, or bought that and then looked for aftermarket scales for a lot more than what I paid.
 
I bought a bugout from bass pro, checked out the scales, pinched them, saw them bend and returned the knife before heading back
Thank you for this thread, I'm no longer interested in this model

as if 'light duty' wasn't enough of a turn off
 
Just picked up the Magnacut Deka, on mine just two complaints scary slick scales and a tip that's slightly burnt.I'm sure the later will sharpen out.

Presently wait for scales to be available again from bladescales.Not Eta from them.
 
Jakeywax31 said:
The plastic doesnt bother me as much as how slick it is. I took a wood burner to mine and it is much better. Dont care how it looks just need it to work.
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Nice idea.

What also bothers me a lot is the balance - or lack of it. Too front heavy, just like the CF-Elite bugout I have.
 
razorburn said:
Just picked up the Magnacut Deka, on mine just two complaints scary slick scales and a tip that's slightly burnt.I'm sure the later will sharpen out.

Presently wait for scales to be available again from bladescales.Not Eta from them.
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_cl said:
Nice idea.

What also bothers me a lot is the balance - or lack of it. Too front heavy, just like the CF-Elite bugout I have.
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Now even happier that I went with the Blue/Black G-Mascus CPM-20CV version for now...
 
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I have both the 20cv and magnacut. I dont know if I recieved a 20cv dud but the heat treat on it is horrible.
 
Has anyone RIT dyed the FRN scales? If so, can you just dip the whole knife into the solution or would it be best to disassemble it and immerse only the scales? I wonder if immersing the entire knife in the scalding solution would have a negative effect on the lock.

I have RIT dyed a couple of FRN Spydercos without issue to the simple lockbacks but would rather not damage my DEKA.
 
The plastic is the knly reason I won't buy one. I suppose they did it to keep the price point near the 20cv model but the plastic feels all wrong. Same complaint I have with the Bugout which is why I always change those scales too
 
Just a heads up. BladesScales just got a restock, I just order a set early this morning and all he had were Day Glow and White G-10.
 
FYI for anyone interested. I got a DEKA Wharncliffe with the blue plastic scales. A 15 minute soak in dark green RIT Dye yielded absolutely no change in color whatsoever. Whatever material they use is different from FRN as I've had no problem dyeing my Spydercos after a few minutes in the dye. I'll have to try stronger stuff
 
oldmanwilly said:
FYI for anyone interested. I got a DEKA Wharncliffe with the blue plastic scales. A 15 minute soak in dark green RIT Dye yielded absolutely no change in color whatsoever. Whatever material they use is different from FRN as I've had no problem dyeing my Spydercos after a few minutes in the dye. I'll have to try stronger stuff
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Tbh the scale color doesn't bother me.
It's that when cutting my hand would slip forward to the blade.
Spyderco frn scales has not performed that way.

That is the reason I changed out the scales. Unacceptable to carry a knife that the performance would cause a embarrassing mistake.

I really like it with the new scales on. I would have done it differently if I realized how they performed.
 
I've had the 20CV / G-10 version for a year; and I just got the Magnacut / thermoplastic version.

The Magnacut blade makes sense for these knives, but the thermoplastic handle just sucks little green toads.
They duplicated the G-10 handle shape, but they hollowed it out.
>>It sounds thin and hollow. (duh! It IS thin and hollow.)
>>It also changed the center of gravity. The thermoplastic version feels blade-heavy. (The G-10 version has a perfect balance, as one would expect from a master knife designer like Elishewitz.)
>>The flexes. (The G-10 is absolutely rigid.)
>>It feels overly slick which can make it harder than it should be to open. The coefficient of friction for the thermoplastic is lower than that of epoxy. You are going to need to do something to the surface to make up for that. I'm thinking some sandpaper might help.

And they didn't break the corners on the handle edges. (Yeah, they didn't on the G-10 version either. Somebody needs to mention this to them.) I have fixed the sharp corner issue, but I feel I should not need to do that on a knife being offered at that price point. Sharp handle edges make for a less comfortable grip. And on this knife they cause funky hollow plastic sounds as my hand brushes against them.

The result is a knife that feels like I got it at Target for $9.95. Had it for a couple of days. It pisses me off all over again every time I pull it out of my pocket. The Magnacut version could have been a GREAT knife. Now it's not. Because they fouled up the handles. I am peeved.

I like the Magnacut blade ("modified Wharncliffe version". Don't know why they call it that. It is not very close to a "Wharncliffe". More like a reverse tanto. ) I'm going to need to replace that handle though.

Magnacut Deka -- NOT recommended. (unless you are willing to replace the handle.)

Update. I was able to overcome the slickness of the thermoplastic by lightly sanding the surfaces of the handle with 100 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. I sanded it along the length of the handle. Doesn't fix the balance or the flexing, but does solve the problems I had opening the knife.
 
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oldmanwilly said:
Has anyone RIT dyed the FRN scales? If so, can you just dip the whole knife into the solution or would it be best to disassemble it and immerse only the scales? I wonder if immersing the entire knife in the scalding solution would have a negative effect on the lock.

I have RIT dyed a couple of FRN Spydercos without issue to the simple lockbacks but would rather not damage my DEKA.
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Submerging the omega springs in boiling water is probably not the best idea. You also want to get ALL of the oil, dirt, and anything else off the scales before dying, which you can't do with the knife assembled. If you've never taken an Axis Lock knife apart, watch some disassembly videos on YouTube.
 
OrangeBlueOrangeBlue said:
Submerging the omega springs in boiling water is probably not the best idea. You also want to get ALL of the oil, dirt, and anything else off the scales before dying, which you can't do with the knife assembled. If you've never taken an Axis Lock knife apart, watch some disassembly videos on YouTube.
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Good points, thanks. At this point I've also grown tired of the slick scales and will probably hold out for some G10 replacements.

For what it's worth, I actually called the OEM for the springs and the rep I spoke to assured me that their springs should not suffer noticeable corrosion. That said, it's probably wise to remove them anyway as a boiling salt water bath cannot do anything but harm them.
 
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