Hollow grinding a conan sword, need feedback...

savagesword

savagesword

Joined
Aug 30, 2012
Messages
101
Hi, I'm pretty new to the forum and I'm really impressed with the helpful comments and posts that the members post, this is good stuff!!

I thought that I would post a question and get some feedback from the group here.

I've been mainly focused on building my own Conan movie swords... epic bronze guards/pommels and 2 inch wide hollow ground blades. Last year I got a KMG 1.5hp with the pulley drive and a nice set of attachments. I've made a dozen blades and I keep looking to improve work. I started using a new tool rest jig to help hold the bevels straight and it has worked great. But, now I have some finishing questions.

After reading a few tutorials on this site, I've learned that most projects require a hand-sanding step. I've never considered hand-sanding these swords, and I now think that I've been stuck in a 'box' with my thinking. I convinced myself that all of the grinding and sanding would be done with my 6" wheel (grits: 36 - 120 - trizac 100 - trizac 45) and final satin-style finish - sisal buffing wheel with black compound.

I only use the jig for 36 and 120, then I do the rest free-hand. During this free hand stage there are different polish marks introduced no matter how hard I try to keep it perfect. They show up at certain angles of reflection...but you can't feel them..the main grind is darn near perfect. I've used layout dye between grits, so I know these spots are not from rougher grits. It's like some of these spots have a bit more polish and reflect the light differently.

Questions:
1. Is it naive for me to think that only machine sanding is necessary to complete the sword.... or is hand sanding a necessary step to address these artifact reflections?

2. Is the best way to approach the hand sanding is to create sanding blocks with a radius on them?

Thanks everyone!

hollowgrind1.jpg

hollowgrind2.jpg

hollowgrind3.jpg
 
Unless one of my swords has a hamon, I rarely hand sand it (just lazy, I guess), instead, I use scotch brite belts, starting with the course, moving to the medium, then the fine and super fine. I think it provides a very good working finish. By the way, nice pictures and you clearly have a knack for swords. Good going.
 
Scotch Brite belts...Ahhhhhhh. That's a great idea, i've never seen them. They would definitely help with some of the problems I have maintaining perfect surface contact... those have a bit of a forgiveness factor with them. I'll check them out.
THANKS for the help and kind words!
 
Quick question Mr. Stifle: What is the approximate price per belt for these 3M Scotch Brite? I'm finding different prices all over the web: is it about $22 a belt... or $22 for 10 belts? I've seen advertising for both... doesn't make much sense.

THANKS!
 
Nevermind, it seems some suppliers list belt price...but then add the 'ole' 10 belts per box later in the description.
 
A SB belt will last a very long time! I have some that are 2 years old and still work fine.
 
If you ever find your SB belts gumming up.... a soak in dish detergent/degreaser followed by a good hosing will breath new life into them.:thumbup:

Historically speaking, I don't think they ever hollow ground swords... but "history" speaking and "Conan" really don't go hand in hand anyway...:p

Nice work.:thumbup:
 
Great to hear about their life span!

Another question: Is it worth using the Scotch Brite before heat treat process (like up to the Medium grit)? Or should I just wait until after the treat?

THANKS!
 
savagesword said:
Another question: Is it worth using the Scotch Brite before heat treat process (like up to the Medium grit)? Or should I just wait until after the treat?

THANKS!
Click to expand...

What type of steel is it and what HT'g equipment do you have?
 
The blades are 5160 steel, I have the KMG with the 1.5 hp pulley drive and a lot of wheels. I also have a Baldor 3600 3/4hp buffer.
 
You said HT'd equipment.... My bad. I'm having them treated at Pac Met in Seattle (Pacific Metallurgical)
 
The reason I ask is that some HT'g facilities will leave very little decarb/scale on your blade. Often times, there is minimum post HT clean up. So the SB belt might be an option prior to sending it out. That said, many find that SB belts work best on hardened steel. I personally don't think it will make a significant difference either way.
 
For something like a sword where you don't have to end up with really thin edges, I'd prepare it to 95% finished before I sent it for HT. Hand finishing will be a chore due to the surface area but if you do it before ht, I think it would be manageable and you'll be proud of the result. A hand finished sword is a beautiful thing.
 
Rick Marchand said:
Historically speaking, I don't think they ever hollow ground swords... but "history" speaking and "Conan" really don't go hand in hand anyway...:p
Nice work.:thumbup:
Click to expand...

You are so correct about that! There's so much historically wrong with those movie swords... but to a child of the 80's and a fan of fantasy fiction....they are inspirational!

Thanks so much for your help!
 
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