Home Built Surface Grinder

I have updated Post 473 with a completed video and photo. https://bladeforums.com/threads/home-built-surface-grinder.1532559/page-24#post-18794491

Regarding the magnets and holding, I used a 1/16" thick piece that spanned the width of the chuck to act as the fence. I had no slipping issues after that. In the video, I am surfacing aggressively with a 36g belt and had no issues.

The next thing to do is to make a non metal material holder. I am thinking two pieces of 3/32" steel with chisel grinds can use pressure to hold the material. The table feed will be tiny and the speed will be slow. I'll have to try this before I make something more complicated.
Awesome! Any pictures of the finish on the blade?
 
Awesome! Any pictures of the finish on the blade?

Just this test piece. It was with a fresh 220g ceramic belt.

IMG_20190220_223714.jpg

This actually brings up a question I have had. With that 220g belt, I am seeing waves in the finish. I can't photograph them, but they are there. You can't feel them, but you could probably measure them. I noticed this finish also in a Reeder surface grinding video (see below) as well. In their video, they attribute the "ridges" to the 90duro wheel and say if you go with a softer wheel, those "ridges" won't happen. Has anyone else encountered this issue? I wonder if the belt splice has anything to do with it.

 
That video shows a lot about the Reeder SGA - and many things I do like. I'm wondering how useful the beveling option would be. Might be hard to keep plunge line matched on both sides. It does seem well made.

The waves in the grind he's talking about - I'm using a 70 duro range wheel and have not noticed that problem.
 
That video shows a lot about the Reeder SGA - and many things I do like. I'm wondering how useful the beveling option would be. Might be hard to keep plunge line matched on both sides. It does seem well made.

Reeder seems to make great products. Well built and thought out. However, I think I like the simplicity of the SGA-1 and our homages to it.

They did mention a very cool thing in the video, they will be selling their chucks. So anyone who can't mill, can buy their chuck and start making their own SGA.
 
The simplicity of our SGA-1 is why I asked the question about how useful the beveling option would be. While I can admire the design they've done - i.e. harden bushing, etc for wear points - I sorta like the SGA we've all made. Take a look at 7.0 minute in video where he shows about the tracking rail and bearings. I LIKE the adjustment to remove any slack the system might develop over time. Looks like his bearings are larger than the size I'm using which I also like. I'm using the SGR20 size rail, and it looks like Reeder might be using the SGR25 size rail... or 35 size? I can't complain at all about my SGR20 size - it does a good jog.
 
The simplicity of our SGA-1 is why I asked the question about how useful the beveling option would be. While I can admire the design they've done - i.e. harden bushing, etc for wear points - I sorta like the SGA we've all made. Take a look at 7.0 minute in video where he shows about the tracking rail and bearings. I LIKE the adjustment to remove any slack the system might develop over time. Looks like his bearings are larger than the size I'm using which I also like. I'm using the SGR20 size rail, and it looks like Reeder might be using the SGR25 size rail... or 35 size? I can't complain at all about my SGR20 size - it does a good jog.
On the the wear points- my treaded holes have steels inserts for durability.
 
All my materials have delivered! Just a question, what are you all using for a bolt/axle/bushing to mount the contact wheel? I’ve never had a contact wheel before.. any help is appreciated, I just gotta grab some screws and get assembling!
 
All my materials have delivered! Just a question, what are you all using for a bolt/axle/bushing to mount the contact wheel? I’ve never had a contact wheel before.. any help is appreciated, I just gotta grab some screws and get assembling!

Awesome. Good luck on the build!

I am using a 1/2"-13NC bolt. I do not remember how long. Around the 3" mark. To make a spacer, I am using a coupler nut cut to appropriate size and squared, and then I drilled out part of the inside to make it slide over the nonthreaded part of the bolt. I have made a few this way. And truthfully, its all that Beaumont Metalworks Industries is doing to make their spacers.
 
One thing I think there WOULD be a market for is the mag chuck. If someone has a mill, and offered to mill slots in aluminum bar stock (heck you don't even have to glue in the magnets) I think that you would have a lot of interest. It was the most difficult part of the build for me anyway.

Has anyone taken this up? Otherwise, what should I expect to spend for the aluminum and the milling?
 
Has anyone taken this up? Otherwise, what should I expect to spend for the aluminum and the milling?
I paid $20 for a 1”x 2.5”x12” piece of aluminum. Local guy off Facebook would mill 15 slots for me for $30, luckily I have a friend who will do it for a beer.
 
Has anyone taken this up? Otherwise, what should I expect to spend for the aluminum and the milling?

I paid $90CDN (so around $67USD) for 15"x2.5"x1" aluminum block, and 20 channel milling.

As I said earlier, Reeder will be making chucks available for sale as they are wear items. I imagine if you contacted them, they will get you a price.
 
I would spend less money on material, and pay extra for the slots to be milled in steel.
 
I'd be happy to pay $50-70 for the chuck and milling. I've checked with three places locally and was quoted $125-300. :rolleyes:
 
I was going to use a piece of 1"×2.5" aluminum bar for the chuck

What size are you guys using for the plate the chuck mounts to, and the plate the slide rail mounts to?
 
I was going to use a piece of 1"×2.5" aluminum bar for the chuck

What size are you guys using for the plate the chuck mounts to, and the plate the slide rail mounts to?
I’m using (2) 1/2” x 2” x 12” plates. One will be solid mounted to the linear rail. The second will be solid mounted to the chuck and able to tilt on the other bar for tapered tang.
 
I’m using (2) 1/2” x 2” x 12” plates. One will be solid mounted to the linear rail. The second will be solid mounted to the chuck and able to tilt on the other bar for tapered tang.

Thanks. Are you using aluminium for those as well?
 
Anyone else have an issue with the AliExpress contact wheel wobble? It’s bad enough it shakes my grinder. I can see it was balanced but how good of a job I don’t know. I have it mounted with a 1/2” bolt which is a snug fit and lightly bolted down, bearings are. 12.7mm inside.
 
Does it wobble as in "out of round? or not running true? I've had to rebalance a 12" wheel from China. Not a real problem, just spin it to see where it has the heavy spot that always stops at bottom. Remove and drill some metal out there until the wheel doesn't stop at same place.
 
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