home made press hydraulic press question (wont hold billet for twisting)

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

My decision on links.
I have decided the link rule applies to links that are sold by companies that are knife related. Thus, you can't link them because there are members paying for that privilege. However, I have no issue with links that are for non-knife items or specific parts for building equipment. If the super mods want to tell me no, then they will have to police the links that I deem reasonable. I will be reasonable about this and not become Big Brother. Use your common sense and I think we all will be happy. I'll just post after a non-allowed link that it should be removed and why. Otherwise, I won't edit them unless the link is a blatant No-No.
What I don't want to see is something like, "Check out this great deal on the new grinder from KMG", etc.
What I have no problem with is, "Here is a parts diagram showing where the plug goes", etc.

Examples of not allowed links:
Knife equipment for sale
Knife parts for sale
Abrasive suppliers
Steel suppliers
Home pages of sites that offer services or sales of things
Specific sales links (Ebay, Amazon, etc.) You can post the part number or a photo of the item, but not the sales link. Just copy and paste the part of the link or site that is appropriate

Examples of allowed links:
Basic parts diagrams and schematics
Specific hard to find or needed parts that need to be seen to understand what you are taking about
A chart showing grit size comparison
Non-knife equipment or supplies that would not be sold by knife suppliers or service providers

Here are some ways to post a proper link (just examples, not actual recommendations): All I did is copy and paste the information, not the site.

"I like this type small wheel from ABC grinder supplies:

This is a good chart from Tru-Grit explaining sanding belt types: FEPA P Paper	Micron μm	FEPA F Grain	Micron μm	JIS R6001 Japan 1973	Micron μm	ANSI	Micron μm	MM
		F5	4125
		F6	3460
		F7	2900
		F8	2460
		F10	2085
P12	1815	F12	1765
		F14	1470
P16	1324	F16	1230
P20	1000	F20	1040
		F22	885
P24	764	F24	745
P30	642	F30	625
P36	538	F36	525
P40	425	F40	438
		F46	370
P50	336	F54	310
P60	269	F60	260	J60
		F70	218
P80	201

 

[Ken H>]

Thank you for info - that allows me to post a link to the hydraulic calculation info and those other tech information pages.

I think your idea makes a lot of sense.

Ken H>

 

[J. Keeton]

I don't think they sell a valve from the factory with this conversion. I asked a follow up question for clarification, but that's my impression

 

[Ken H>]

The email reflects the drawing exactly about putting the 3/8" NPT plug in the bottom outlet port. Thanks for posting it.

edit: What is the difference in the "T4" vs "M4" in the model number. The chart posted shows a "4 way 3 position" and a "4 way 3 position motor". It seems the difference in those valves is the "T4" vs "M4" in the model number.

Remember that control valve has a hi-pressure bypass. That's exactly what the pressure adjustment does. When the cylinder is pressed down with max pressure, the hi-pressure bypass in control valve relieves the excess pressure into the tank. On my press when the lever is moved to down position the cylinder goes down, and when max pressure is reached, the control valve bypass kicks in to prevent the pressure from building more. This makes a pretty good noise with the pressure holding at 2250 psi. When the lever is moved back to center position the noise stops and pressure drops to zero with the fluid now flowing thru the control valve back to tank. Could this be due to an "Open" center control valve?

As I've proved before, I'm NOT an expert with hydraulics, and rather than learning seem to be creating more questions?

edit: OK, I just found this YT video and at 8:15 he suggests using a "motor" type valve for a log splitter - isn't that about the same we use? I "think" he's saying the "motor" is the "open" we've been talking about.