Home Stabilizing Techniques?

28 Tons ? Hell that aint enough pressure to fold an envelope. I want one of those 100 ton units that you can cold fuse metals with :)
 
OK, guys. I found some mason jars. It was a bit of a hunt, 'cause there aren't too many Betty Crocker types here in the Soccer-Mom-liberal-heaven-have-it-catered-why-do-it-yourself mecca of Northern New Jersey. (can't 'ya just tell I love where I live???)

Anyway, I'm on my way out to buy a brake bleeding pump, but need to know what I can buy at Home Depot that will be the type of dense polymer that Mike suggested.

Is there a specific brand name product carried by Home Depot that will get me where I need to be?
 
Rovert, if you meant me, then my answer would be "No, I don't know of any pure polymers available at local places like Lowes or Home Depot." That doesn't mean there aren't any, just none I know of.

The methylmethacrylate ploymers and such are only available through places like science supply houses or places that distribute Loctite products or places such as www.polysciences.com .

I've decided to do some experiments with uptake of material and post-treatment wetability here at home. Dimensional stability, the other important factor, would be hard to measure since the changes that would aggravate us are very small to discern in a block that's not on a knife. Still, I'll put a caliper to them to see if I notice anything. I have a vacuum pump, pressure tank, and scale to measure weights. I plan on doing some work with Nelsonite, Minwax, solvent-based polyurethane, and others I can think of. I've already tried water-borne polyurethane and it didn't work for me (poor penetration and quickly thickens under vacuum). It will take awhile but I will post data as they are available.

I've contacted a friend who has had success with MMA but it is a laborious procedure because an inhibitor had to be removed prior to use, otherwise it won't harden. If there isn't any stabilizer, it won't have squat for a shelf life. I'd like to investigate this Resinol90C but can't afford $300 for an experiment.

Something else that occurred to me is that perhaps it's best to let these dry in air for awhile after "soaking" and before any vacuum drying in order to prevent the liquid from being sucked right back out of the pores before it dries.

I'm beginning to think that despite the fact I really like home experimentation because of my background in science, that perhaps it would be cheaper in the long run just to send the danged wood out to the pros if one wants complete "plastic" stabilization. We'll see.
 
fitzo said:
perhaps it would be cheaper in the long run just to send the danged wood out to the pros if one wants complete "plastic" stabilization.
Click to expand...

Yeah but where's the fun in that??!? :D ;)
 
I was talking to Mike at WSSI the other day and he told me about a fellow a few years back who ended up loosing part of an ear when a batch of home brew stabilizer exploded and burned him.There are some things that the pros do best - and it should be left to them in most cases.
Of course Indian George probably does his onw dentistry!
 
Mike, yes I was thinking of you. Thanks for getting back to me.

It bears reiterating that I'm not making knives - I'm making (among other things) pistol grips, so tolerances and dimensional stability for my projects isn't as critical for my parts as it is for you bladesmiths.

What I'm really looking for is a way to keep my wood looking newer, longer. I'm after esistance to soil, dirt, and other stains. Also the fact that polymers tend to take a high gloss polish, more so than just the wood itself which is porous, means that the finished product looks much nicer. If it expands or contracts .01" which would be a disaster for a high-end knife, is not on the radar for grips.

Yes, it would make sense to send product out to WSSI, but I don't do enough volume to make it worthwhile. Obviously when I get there, it will be a primary consideration, but for now, I need to look at doing it the "poor man's way" by applying a home-brewed solution.

Any information you guys can share on what branded product available at home centers is advisable, or recommendations for what to look for, would be appreciated.
 
I was digging around considering what Home-Depot variety treatments may provide some wood stabilization. I called up an MSDS for WaterSeal. The way I read it, the stuff is nothing more than mineral oil dissolved in volatile solvents.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong about this snake-oil, please.
 
the stuff I used years ago
you get a good wif of it and it smelled like kerosene to me :barf:
 
I have yearned for a vacuum setup for my shop and have squirreled away some of the components. In the mean time I have been soaking handles in linseed oil. Because I'm so cheap I put the completed knife in a plastic bag, pour in the oil, then seal the top. I let it stay about a week (if I can stand it that long). A couple of kitchen knives that I made several years ago using black walnut handles, just because I've got a bunch, have held up in my kitchen under my not too good care.
Someone on the net suggested using a different kind of oil (can't remember the name, senior moment) because it is thinner and may penetrate better but I haven't got around to using it. Looked it up - Tung Oil.
Lynn
 
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