Honesuki - Critiques and a couple of questions if you will.

2 major things that make the fit and finnish what it is
first and formost the knife is a tool and they want it to work great often not wanting to pay a bit more for works the same but is fancy
the other that many of the knives are not made all by jsut one maker the smith does his job then hands blanks to the grinder who sends finished blades to the handle maker (many times the handles are pre drilled ) hot fit and pounded on no epoxy
its just a tool ;)
 
Frank Niro said:
Well sorry about the remark being bent but it looked that way to me.
Frank
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Hi Frank,
The first time I made a chisel grind with a distal taper like that, I thought the steel had warped over night when I pick it up the next day.
Its an optical illusion of sorts.:)
 
Jesse Latham said:
Maybe a two piece bolster to cover?
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It is possible, and I've considered it. I might do that eventually. But I might just keep it as is and use it to test out the design in my own kitchen. I have another one I am putting together in the next week or two. Thanks for the suggestion Jesse.
 
Here is the second of the Honesuki styles I have had sitting on my desk for months and finally finished up.
I think this one came out much better, but still made some minor mistakes and learned a few things.
The mini-mill sure did help me out on the tang slot.

This is hollow ground on the back, chisel on the front side. These are harder to sharpen than I expected on the chisel side.
I still have some work to do to take it down right, but it is in fair cutting shape. I think I need a much coarser stone to get the initial bevel just right the full length.
All in all it was a great learning project.

Please feel free to comment as I am very interested in advice on this style.

(first pic looks like the tip is gone, but it's just stuck in those material. :|

2Honesuki-1.jpg



2Honesuki-2.jpg
 
Nice job Brock74!
I have 2 hints you may find helpful.
first: You could try a morticed handle next time, Dave's Crossed Heart Forge has a lot of info (applied to tanto) on how to proceed. That super precise fit would make it possible to remove the knife from the handle for sharpening (the handle would get loaded with black dirt otherwise, short of sealing it with towels/tape).
Second: You are right! Chisel grinds are a pita to properly sharpen, add a coarse diamond hone (eze-lap for example) to your stones collection, and use it as the first step until you estabilish the actual cutting edge.
 
stezann said:
Nice job Brock74!
I have 2 hints you may find helpful.
first: You could try a morticed handle next time, Dave's Crossed Heart Forge has a lot of info (applied to tanto) on how to proceed. That super precise fit would make it possible to remove the knife from the handle for sharpening (the handle would get loaded with black dirt otherwise, short of sealing it with towels/tape).
Second: You are right! Chisel grinds are a pita to properly sharpen, add a coarse diamond hone (eze-lap for example) to your stones collection, and use it as the first step until you establish the actual cutting edge.
Click to expand...

Thanks Stezann. I couldn't find the mortised handle info, but that was an interesting site. I'm not too worried about stuff getting into the handle. I have a mini mill now that cuts a very tight fitting slot for the tang. Then I use epoxy to hold and seal the tang in the handle.
I'll look into the diamond hone, but I am also considering a double bevel.
 
A 100g diamond stone makes short work of bevels without risking burning the edge.

I use 100g to reprofile, 320 to put the initial edge on, then use my edge pro from there. With kitchen knife hardness, I was burning through the course stones on the edge pro.
 
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