How are Strider Folders?

unless you create a third bevel, you're going to cut in to the primary bevel with any sharpening.


Exactly! Thicken a edge you just cut a third bevel. That is unless you have given up the mental masturbation like obession with bevels. If you go convex this entire conversation becomes pointless, and your knife is better. :D

WOOT!
 
I've owned several, and it's a great knife. However, its pricey, and yes, I'd suggest a Sebenza over a Strider. CR Knives don't use any stories about special ops or anything to sell their knives, it's just good knives.

Also, the bead blasting that is used for the tiger stripes makes the S30V blades rust super easily. For those of us who use knives on duty, I've unfortunately never had a strider that didn't require a ton of attention to prevent major rusting.

That being said, I'd recommend it to anyone who wants the M1A1 Abrams of knives.
 
It´s o.k to cut a third bevel (or rather, a new primary bevel) to make things more obtuse. But you´ll still have to sharpen that with each sharpening..

Otherwise it wouldn´t make sense.

If you cut a third bevel above the primary edge, you´ll be thinning it out instead of obtusing it.
 
Also, the bead blasting that is used for the tiger stripes makes the S30V blades rust super easily.

Interesting you say that. I've never noticed any rust on either the SNG or the Sebbie. Admittedly, if they get wet they don't stay that way for very long and I'm not using them near any harsh chemicals.

What conditions are you using yours in that gets them rusty?
 
You can thicken the edge by sharpening at a more obtuse angle, and that means you cut less, perhaps none, of the primary bevel. If you want a more acute angle and thinner steel at X height above the edge, then you cut deeper into the primary. If you slice directly into a sharpening stone, you create a 90 degree microbevel and didn't do a thing to the primary. If you sharpen flat to the stone, then you grind steel up the entire primary and have to do a fair bit before changing the final edge angle.

not that any of this has to do with Strider knife quality.
 
Well, I've carried a GB as part of my EDC for the past three years. I've used that knife to cut so many different types of material I couldn't begin to list them all. I've also used it to pry more times than I care to admit ;)

Maybe the fit/finish leave a little to be desired, but if you want a tough, easy to sharpen knife with a NO BS warranty...look no farther.
ed33fb3f.jpg


This pic is a couple years old, so she don't look this pretty anymore :D
 
They are nice knives, but for the same money I would rather take it and get (another) Sebenza. I find the ergos and F&F to be better on the Sebenza, and the Seb is about as tough as I "need" a folder to be. But-- one Strider I really like and may acquire in the future is the PT-CC... a fantastic little folder -- comfortable to hold and fun to play with.
 
While the fit and finish of the Sebenza is never in question , I will easily question it's ergonomics. To me , it just flat out doesn't feel right in the hand. Carries dam well in the pocket though being so flat , however it feels the same in the hand.

Haven't had one for a few years , bought a slightly used one last Friday , it arrived today. Fondled it for awhile , it did nothing for me , nadda , zip. Pulled out the PT CC and it felt so much better in the hand than the seb does.

Sucks too cause I was sure I would take to it again like a fish to water. Sorry Sebby , getting a bit long in the tooth.

Seb or SnG ? Sng hands down. ( my opinion )
 
I've owned several, and it's a great knife. However, its pricey, and yes, I'd suggest a Sebenza over a Strider. CR Knives don't use any stories about special ops or anything to sell their knives, it's just good knives.

Also, the bead blasting that is used for the tiger stripes makes the S30V blades rust super easily. For those of us who use knives on duty, I've unfortunately never had a strider that didn't require a ton of attention to prevent major rusting.

That being said, I'd recommend it to anyone who wants the M1A1 Abrams of knives.

Funny YOU should say that! On another forum, a while back, you described yourself as a "Strider addict," and put down other knives being discussed as being vastly inferior to the almighty Strider. What happened to the Strider love?:confused:

Regards,
3G
 
Besides locktite, racism, personal attacks, off-topic comments, incredibly violent and offending posts, insulting a moderator, and porn are very good at locking threads.
Speaking of such, what is the proper way for locktiting screws into a knife? Spread it on the screws, dump it in, put the screws in halfway and pour it in?
I seem to recall there being a Buck copy of a Strider that I liked but didn't have money for at the time. It did have good ergos.

Pull the screw out, put a dot of Loctite on one side, let it dry, put the screw back in.

/threadjack

As far as the Fit and Finish "argument" goes, I can't imagine buying a high-end custom anything and not being miffed if it had less than great fit and finish.
 
Overpriced. Had an Sng that had worse workmanship and bladeplay than
my Chinese Buck....

P.T. Barnum; "There's a sucker born every minute"
 
a while back, you described yourself as

Are you accusing him of changing his mind? Do you think everyone who has enough intelligence to do that occasionally should be hounded off the net and the forums should be reserved exclusively for idiots? :cool:
 
Comments and experiences please!

I carry and use an SMF almost every day. I've found it to be a well built knife that sharpens relatively easy, opens with a flick of the thumb, stays relatively sharp, and does what I want it to do. I wouldn't use it for the same tasks that I'd use my ASH-1 for, but for a folder, it's excellent. Customer service/warranty is also excellent. They're expensive, however.
 
If Strider folders were $100 cheaper, I'd buy one in a heart-beat.
I'd probably want the chance to check it out in person though, as any production knife can be a bit off.
The ergos on my Buck 882 SBTG(a Strider design) are quite nice, and the addition of a frame lock, like on the actual Strider, would make it awesome.
If you have the money to spend, they're okay. The Spec-Ops hype was a bit off-putting, but by most accounts, the actual knives are pretty good.
 
Are you accusing him of changing his mind?
Yes, I am.
Do you think everyone who has enough intelligence to do that occasionally should be hounded off the net and the forums should be reserved exclusively for idiots? :cool:
Not at all. As a matter of fact, if you'll take another look at my post, specifically the last line, you'll see that I was trying to find out what caused such a hard-core devotee to stray from the herd.:)

Turns out your a class act.
He's been one all along, you just haven't been paying close enough attention.;)


Regards,
3G
 
I've owned several, and it's a great knife. However, its pricey, and yes, I'd suggest a Sebenza over a Strider. CR Knives don't use any stories about special ops or anything to sell their knives, it's just good knives.

Also, the bead blasting that is used for the tiger stripes makes the S30V blades rust super easily. For those of us who use knives on duty, I've unfortunately never had a strider that didn't require a ton of attention to prevent major rusting.

That being said, I'd recommend it to anyone who wants the M1A1 Abrams of knives.

S30V rusting super easy?? That is pretty surprising. I would like to see some evidence to back up that statement.

I have a number of Striders with S30V steel. No rust. Maybe I live in the wrong part of the country?

Rich
 
A lot of people stand behind strider knives. Some take it to a whole nother level; tattoos and such. I once questioned the people that complained about this strider or that, for this reason or that. Then I tried some on my own. I didn't need the strongest knife avalible, and didn't even use the ones I had real hard. In reality, I probably just got one to say I had one. I also used to read about people pumping up sebenzas like crazy too and couldn't understand it for the world. Before owning either one, I thought, well, at least the strider is a super strong knife for the price, and it looks cool -all people can say about the sebenza is how nice the fit and finish was, which was meaningless to me at the time. So, eventually I went to a knife dealer and traded several fine mint knives for an sng. Wow, my first really expensive knife. I thought it was really cool. Seemed like it was unstopable and I was proud to have it in my pocket. I used it for edc, cutting this and that. I never really pushed it though, just because the thing cost so much (way more than retail due to the trade I made). It was tight to open, but I always heard of the break-in period they need. After about two months of use and hundreds of openings, it was still no easier to open, so I loosened the pivot. Now it had blade play. Damn, can't stand that. So I tightened it back up, and went on using it, hoping it would loosen up a bit with regular use. I really didn't want to send it in for warranty work, it was my baby. Then one day the pin just simply fell out. I now had no choice but to send it in. It came back, and I was happy to see it again. Fixed. I used it more, still stiff as day one, but I had excepted that. Finally, I woke up one day and the blade was rusted like it had been sitting in the jungle getting pissed on by monkeys for a few months. No. How did I let that happen, I always kept a tuf cloth handy? Well, it was time to get it bead blasted and trade it off. What a waste of my original knives. I believe I ended up with a mission mpf in A2. It was nice, but I just didn't care for it. I thought hey, maybe I'll give a different strider a try. -I wasn't a big fan of the sngs handle anyhow. Maybe I'll try to find a smf for trade. So I did. Got it home, openned the package and thought wow, this is a awsome knife. Then I openned it and it had blade play. Maybe the pivot was just a bit loose, luckily I also made out with a strider prybaby in the deal, so I adjusted it back and forth and it was exactily like my new sng had been. Too tight or with play. Well, I wasn't gonna wait for the monkeys to come back, so I trade it off for a large regular sebenza. I already had owned 2 striders and a mission, why not give that plain looking sebenza a try. I'm not a wealthy man, but I finally found an expensive knife that was worth the crazy price they sold for. -Absolutly perfect in every way.
That is the story of my experience with strider knives and a couple others in a similar price range. Maybe I was just unlucky with the two I had, but I wont give a third a try. Some people seem to really love them, and I doubt they're all carrying knives that are tight, rusted up, or have blade play. At this point, my sebenza is gone due to financial reasons, and I either carry a spyderco jess horn, or my emerson #12. They're all I seem to need, and really, I could probably live with just that little pink looking spyderco that cost under 100 bucks. It locks without play and opens nicely. Like I said, I'm pretty sure I had some bad luck with the striders I had. I tried to like them, but I don't. -I don't even trust them personally. Now when I read people complaining about a strider that aint right, I don't question them. And if you ever catch me with a knife that cost in the ball park of a strider someday, it'll likely be a plain looking sebenza.
By the way, I live in Ohio, not the jungle, and if high end cars had less than 20 parts on them, I bet they'd have a lifetime warranty too.
 
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S30V rusting super easy?? That is pretty surprising. I would like to see some evidence to back up that statement.

I have a number of Striders with S30V steel. No rust. Maybe I live in the wrong part of the country?

Rich

IIRC, there was a discussion about S30V rusting more quickly, possibly due to certain types of bead-blast processing. I have no experience whatsoever with Strider knives, but I noticed my T1 Harsey with a bead-blast S30V blade seemed to rust MUCH easier than any of my other S30V knives.

That being said, is it possible that differences in manufacturing between runs could make some Strider knives more prone to rust?
 
That being said, is it possible that differences in manufacturing between runs could make some Strider knives more prone to rust?

This rust thing has me a bit puzzled. I own a number of S30V knives, including Strider, Spyderco and Sebenza. I use all of them regularly, the Native in fact is my current go to work EDC. I have never seen even a hint of rust in any of them. I'd like to know what people are doing with them to make them rust, are they working salt water all the time or something?
 
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