How do you define Blade/Knife Failure in the woods??

WILLIAM.M

WILLIAM.M

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How do you define Blade/Knife Failure in the woods??

For example---

The Blade snaps=blade failure(lest you were prying with it)

The Handle gives you a blister in 5 minutes=Knife/Handle failure

To me a Knife/Blade fails when it cuts slower than I expect it to-or when it feels less comfortable than I want.

I have never had a blade snap or a handle break--but those of course would be failures as well.

THE QUESTION:

What do you call blade/knife failures in the woods>>>???(list examples if it happened to you)
 
Unreasonable/irreparable edge wear (ex excessive chipping or rolling of the edge). Steel that is not maintainable using a file, a hardstone and a strop or sandpaper. Tip breaks, blade snaps (obviously) Most of it boils down to user failure moreso than blade failure though...
 
For me the blade would have to actually break, either snap at the tip or blade/handle junction. If you had to, you could still work with just the blade I would think. You might even be able to dull the back portion of the blade on a rock and fashion a handle wrap with cordage.

As to edge holding, nicks, sharpening etc., those are all maintenance issues. Is it the blades fault? Ergos? Well it might not be comfortable, but I don't think it has to feel like a hand massage to do what needs to be done in the bush. I certainly wouldn't put 'this knife isn't my preferred option' in the same category as 'this knife has failed to function it intended purpose'.

The only examples I've had of knife failures were crappy knockoff folders that I've bought when I was too ignorant to know better. You know, the $2 folders in the gas station that look like a spyderco delica. You flip them open twice and then the blade falls out and the handle comes all undone. Those little knives are a good lesson in how to blow $2 with little effect. In the latter purpose they served their function really well.
 
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In my opinion for a blade to fail, it must chip out extensively, break, or not be able to complete simple tasks that it should be able to complete. If the tip breaks while I was abusing it, I do not consider that failure on the blades part. That was my own fault.
 
Failure for me would be breakage of either the blade or handle scales.

Becoming dull is just wear and tear and I just strop the edge on my belt !
 
You've been posting some good questions recently, Dr. Bill.

I have to side with Ken on this one. A blade would have to actually snap (fail catastrophically). I would consider almost anything else to be my fault (operator error).

Certainly I would find edge chipping/rolling/premature dulling annoying, but those can be fixed in the field, and wouldn't keep me from using the knife.

When I got home, however, someone would have some explaining to do as to why their knife performed like it did (unless I had been abusing it beyond belief).
 
massive chipping or a blade snapping or handle breakage.

i dont consider blisters a failure of the knife, but a design problem at least in terms of my hands.

as far as cutting speed, i wouldnt see this as a failure so much as inappropriate geometry or poor steel. it would lead me to a different knife, but not a "failure".
 
WILLIAM.M said:
What do you call blade/knife failures in the woods?
Click to expand...

Unlucky, that's what I call them.

I don't think chipping is that bad. A knife would have to break until it can no longer service for it to be a true failure. Blades snapping in half is definitely in that category. Chipping, slight bending, or anything like that isn't.
 
If it breaks.

An easily dulled/rolled blade is usually also one that is easy to resharpen.

If it chips easily, it's probably too hard, but will slice well.

In most cases, either one of those can be worked around.

A catastrophic failure of the blade or handle is much more difficult or impossible to correct if it happens when you need the knife right now.
 
I suppose what constitutes failure on the part of the knife, is determined by the one using it. I've had broken handles and have broken blades, but ....................

On a cheap knife I found in the middle of a dirt road while in Az., the handle broke (scale cracked and left tang) under lite usage. But not a failure, because duct taping everything together took care of it and it actually felt better in my hand after applying several wraps of tape. Unknown use/abuse of the knife prior to my finding it was the culprit I'm sure.

During my younger years (10), I broke the tips on a couple of knives. Both due to my own ignorance (operator failure) of how to properly use a knife. Not considered a failure of the blades, because both knives were still usable, despite my repeated attempts at destroying them, lol.
 
if the handle becomes slippery when it gets wet or blood on it, would constitute a failure to me.
 
WILLIAM.M said:
How do you define Blade/Knife Failure in the woods??

For example---

The Blade snaps=blade failure(lest you were prying with it)

The Handle gives you a blister in 5 minutes=Knife/Handle failure

To me a Knife/Blade fails when it cuts slower than I expect it to-or when it feels less comfortable than I want.

I have never had a blade snap or a handle break--but those of course would be failures as well.

THE QUESTION:

What do you call blade/knife failures in the woods>>>???(list examples if it happened to you)
Click to expand...

You have to consider the intended purpose of the knife: a neck knife, will probably fail if you try to use it as a chopper, a machete (18" blade) will perform poorly as a skinner, or removing wood splinters, so in my opinion, if the knife snaps doing what it was designed to do, then yes, could be considered a failure
 
For me failure means either I cannot use it now or because of how it performed, I will not ever try to use it again.
I have had one quality 6" fixted blade break in half (batoning). I have had one lock back break its "spring" making it very dangerous to try to use. I have had two tips break off under minor use. I have had a number of knives that could not get thru half a deer before becoming too dull to continue. I do not care if a knife is easy to sharpen, I do not want to have to spend my time sharpening it. The replacement blade (warantee) for the knife that broke in half was 440C at 64.5 RC. This was before the days of diamonds. I could not sharpen that knife in hours of effort. It stayed at home, therefore it failed.
I also consider knifes that rust too fast to have failed. I spend a lot of time in the Rainforests (in rain) in washington and I have had quaility knives develope pits before I got back to the car. So those knives stay home also.
I had a low end machette develope dime size dents when trying to limb a dead tree. Five swings and it looked like a super serrated blade.
 
Ron Athay said:
For me failure means either I cannot use it now or because of how it performed, I will not ever try to use it again.
I have had one quality 6" fixted blade break in half (batoning). I have had one lock back break its "spring" making it very dangerous to try to use. I have had two tips break off under minor use. I have had a number of knives that could not get thru half a deer before becoming too dull to continue. I do not care if a knife is easy to sharpen, I do not want to have to spend my time sharpening it. The replacement blade (warantee) for the knife that broke in half was 440C at 64.5 RC. This was before the days of diamonds. I could not sharpen that knife in hours of effort. It stayed at home, therefore it failed.
I also consider knifes that rust too fast to have failed. I spend a lot of time in the Rainforests (in rain) in washington and I have had quaility knives develope pits before I got back to the car. So those knives stay home also.
I had a low end machette develope dime size dents when trying to limb a dead tree. Five swings and it looked like a super serrated blade.
Click to expand...

I agree and appreciate the time it took to write such a detailed reply

Thanks for posting
 
I would have to classify knife failure the same as KGD.
I have never experienced a knife failing, I have experienced user failure though..:eek:
 
Knife failure to me is breakage of the blade or serious chipping brought on by reasonable use. Also if a stock sheath fails, then i would also conside the whole package a failure, because when i buy a knife, i believe im also paying for the sheath.

On folders i would consider a lock-failure a MAJOR failure.


If the knife stays at home because of ergonomics, i dont consider it a failure. Ergonomics can be improved by modding the shape, getting custom scales and so forth. It might still work for others.

Thats about it.
 
Catastrophic failure is when the metal chips or breaks cutting things that should not cause it. It is essentially when using a knife for things it is not designed to do. Failure would not include cutting through a knot in wood which has happened to me. Failure does include cutting 5-gallon cans, opening up 5-gallon paint cans, prying, digging holes, punching holes in car bodies, or trying to cut nails off.
 
1. Catastrophic failure is of course the biggie. Whether that failure is the fault of the knife or the user... it still failed.

2. Chipping is the next taboo. Chipping is unacceptable, IMO... it is a precursor to a break.

3. Ergonimics/comfort plays an important role and can shelve a knife after one outing, for me.

4. Edge retention is important but not a deal breaker... knives can be resharpened.

Rick
 
Magnussen said:
1. Catastrophic failure is of course the biggie. Whether that failure is the fault of the knife or the user... it still failed.

2. Chipping is the next taboo. Chipping is unacceptable, IMO... it is a precursor to a break.

3. Ergonimics/comfort plays an important role and can shelve a knife after one outing, for me.

4. Edge retention is important but not a deal breaker... knives can be resharpened.

Rick
Click to expand...

Excellent points:thumbup::thumbup:
 
If despite being sharp it has very low cutting power.
If it squirms in my hand when the handle isn't just bone dry and pristine, or in some other way feels like a hazard.
If I'm constantly aware of it either because it is too big or it is intrusive in some other way.
If it produces foul smells when I cut stuff with it – bit like trying to each lunch next to someone with BO.
If it is terrible to use with winter gloves on.
If it corrodes like my golok does – there's just no need to put up with that on a utility knife.
If there is only a narrow band of good grip options.
If a more simple knife can out perform it at the same tasks. [eg. A simple Stanley knife could do everything I'd use one of those 'tin knives' for and more – fail! A cooks knife could compete with some of what my primary knife is used for, but my primary knife does more than that – Retained].

Excessive edge maintenance would obviously get a knife binned – because there's no need to put up with that, or it's a clue it isn't made from some appropriate material, or despite being made from appropriate stuff it was made badly.
 
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