How I do the "Ferry Flip"

Is it possible to do this without tig welding the pieces together? In other words can you tack weld the pieces together on the side and then wet weld them together?
 
Shawn
thats so much simpler than what I was contemplating doing to expose end grain. Thanks so much for sharing with us less sophisticated damascus smiths.
Chris
 
rtj1981 said:
Is it possible to do this without tig welding the pieces together? In other words can you tack weld the pieces together on the side and then wet weld them together?
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Yes. You can tack weld the sides and wet weld you can also weld them up with a mig welder and dry weld or you can tack weld and box them up in a can and dry weld
or do the same thing with arc welder. if you use a mig or arc welder it is a good idea to grind the weld bead off the billet before going into the forge. If you forge this weld bead into the billet you will have to grind more of the welded billet away to get rid of the filler rod from these welds.
 
Bill Burke said:
Yes. You can tack weld the sides and wet weld you can also weld them up with a mig welder and dry weld or you can tack weld and box them up in a can and dry weld
or do the same thing with arc welder. if you use a mig or arc welder it is a good idea to grind the weld bead off the billet before going into the forge. If you forge this weld bead into the billet you will have to grind more of the welded billet away to get rid of the filler rod from these welds.
Click to expand...

Yeah thanks for that tip now...................Seriously what Bill is saying is so true the first time i did this method, and keep in mind i had talked to Tom Ferry David Lisch Shane Taylor and Bill Burke about it. I did not grind the weld beads off and i got a beatiful blade with little gray spots all over in it. Sometimes the information processor filters a little too much out i guess.
 
Nice piece Shawn, Bill _ Lets do a carnation flip this week. Let me know when we can get together.
 
The blade I was forging in my avatar was an explosion pattern that was done with 45 degree tiles, MIG'd on the ends, and wet-welded. :)

Chances of failure are greater, but it certainly can be done. :)
 
Bill Burke said:
Yes. You can tack weld the sides and wet weld you can also weld them up with a mig welder and dry weld or you can tack weld and box them up in a can and dry weld
or do the same thing with arc welder. if you use a mig or arc welder it is a good idea to grind the weld bead off the billet before going into the forge. If you forge this weld bead into the billet you will have to grind more of the welded billet away to get rid of the filler rod from these welds.
Click to expand...

All true and well said. I was contemplating trying this as Nick has done, Tacking the sides and wet welding, but I am curse w/ getting the dreaded grey flux lines between the seams.:eek:
So I stick w/ this method.

Sam, Lets not get carried away, But Thanks.!:)
 
S.Knowles said:
All true and well said. I was contemplating trying this as Nick has done, Tacking the sides and wet welding, but I am curse w/ getting the dreaded grey flux lines between the seams.:eek:
So I stick w/ this method.
Click to expand...

It is always a good Idea to stick with what you are comfortable with and works for you.:thumbup:
 
S.Knowles said:
All true and well said. I was contemplating trying this as Nick has done, Tacking the sides and wet welding, but I am curse w/ getting the dreaded grey flux lines between the seams.:eek:
Click to expand...

Is there any way to eliminate or at least lessen the flux line besides welding all the seems up and dry welding it?

Thanks.
 
rtj1981 said:
Is there any way to eliminate or at least lessen the flux line besides welding all the seems up and dry welding it?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I'm sure there is, alot of makers dont seem to have the problem . I however cant get it down. I only have the problem when I do a four way. If you look in the second pic, you can see them on the end of the bar. I do flux and start the weld at the handle weld and move out to the end to try and let the flux escape out the end but , no cigar. If however I do a 4 way made of triangles i dont get them, I my expeirience I belive It has to do with the way the squaring dies press the billet. In a typical 4way of square bars the seams are pressed on the flats of the squaring dies, With triangles, the seams are pressed together in the corners.Dont ask me why, Is just what I have seen in my shop. But for certain patterns you need the squares to start. It didnt show up in the end result though. I wish I had a better answer for you. It is something I have been struggling with. I may start welding the seams on the 4 way to combat it. Just more grinding thats all.

Shawn
 
Thanks Bill, I have noticed the seams lessen on future progressions of the same billet, I guess I assumed it was just getting harder to see with the reduction of material. I hadnt factored the heat cylcling into the equation. Thanks.

Shawn
 
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