How likely are Becker knives to break in a survival situation?

For a revolver, a .44Spl 200gr flat-point at about 900-1000fps is even better than the .45, but I like having a couple of extra rounds, and mag changes for me are quicker than speed-loaders.
What makes them both so good is that they expend most, if not all, of their energy inside the target. And they are both optimized for targets up to about 250 pounds.
Shot placement is more important than caliber, but bigger rounds make bigger holes. Bigger holes equals more leakage. Leakage is good.
 
For a revolver, a .44Spl 200gr flat-point at about 900-1000fps is even better than the .45, but I like having a couple of extra rounds, and mag changes for me are quicker than speed-loaders.
What makes them both so good is that they expend most, if not all, of their energy inside the target. And they are both optimized for targets up to about 250 pounds.
Shot placement is more important than caliber, but bigger rounds make bigger holes. Bigger holes equals more leakage. Leakage is good.

10mm auto for the win!
That 10mm would end most any argument!
 
From watching Joe X's super scientific youtube video he did break a BK9 and gave it a thumbs down for survival. It was not easy for him to do regardless of his opinion.

I on the other hand after seeing his video think it a very strong knife that can take a lot of abuse, and I mean a lot, but like almost anything else, you will break it if you try really hard to.
 
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That 10mm would end most any argument!
I wonder if this may be best for someone casual about the hobby who thinks it is the forest, more than anyplace else, the round would be used to depend on?

I also am in lack of a knife focused to chopping, my most "chopper" knives are my SRK and SP1 and neither are very choppy, plus a Tram of course. Looking to Becker, perhaps, or a reputable tomahawk company making tough, well-cooked, carbon steel.
 
I wonder if this may be best for someone casual about the hobby who thinks it is the forest, more than anyplace else, the round would be used to depend on?

I also am in lack of a knife focused to chopping, my most "chopper" knives are my SRK and SP1 and neither are very choppy, plus a Tram of course. Looking to Becker, perhaps, or a reputable tomahawk company making tough, well-cooked, carbon steel.
Well, tbh, for a woods gun, a .357 Magnum is more versatile. You can shoot .38's for practice (cheaper) and there are a lot of different .38 and .357 loads for all sorts of things including hunting small game. If you got at least a 5" barrel, you could take advantage of the best .357 ballistics. You can even hunt deer with a .357 that has a 5 or 6 inch barrel, in a lot of states. You can even custom tune hand loads. Can't do that with a 10mm. Hand loads may not cycle the recoil spring if they are a little below pressure.
 
Well, tbh, for a woods gun, a .357 Magnum is more versatile. You can shoot .38's for practice (cheaper) and there are a lot of different .38 and .357 loads for all sorts of things including hunting small game. If you got at least a 5" barrel, you could take advantage of the best .357 ballistics. You can even hunt deer with a .357 that has a 5 or 6 inch barrel, in a lot of states. You can even custom tune hand loads. Can't do that with a 10mm. Hand loads may not cycle the recoil spring if they are a little below pressure.
Good advice! The .38spl was the first pistol cartridge I fired, and I had a good time at it. Would like to try a .357 next! Love the variety of that revolver, though.

Wonder why the .44spl did not retain similar popularity, never fired it, would like to, though, and compare it to .38/.357
"I wonder why the BD1 lost popularity after BD1N, it's kind of what AUS10a was to AUS8a, but we see lots of new AUS8a!"
Starting to see how these breed so many crossfans, disregarding more obvious reasons, haha.
 
Joe x videos are mindless; and to shoot the remains of the knife at the end? All hes doing is giving good usable knives a bad name....
 
Depending on barrel length, .44 Spl is very similar to .45acp, but can be loaded to almost .44Mag pressures. I like 200gr@900-1000fps, accurate, and easy to shoot well. With a steel frame and 3" barrel, it's stout, but controllable, and concealable.
 
Depending on barrel length, .44 Spl is very similar to .45acp, but can be loaded to almost .44Mag pressures. I like 200gr@900-1000fps, accurate, and easy to shoot well. With a steel frame and 3" barrel, it's stout, but controllable, and concealable.
Right. .44 spl/.44 mag has much of the same variety in loads that .38/.357 does, just different in size and weight.
 
I wonder if this may be best for someone casual about the hobby who thinks it is the forest, more than anyplace else, the round would be used to depend on?

I also am in lack of a knife focused to chopping, my most "chopper" knives are my SRK and SP1 and neither are very choppy, plus a Tram of course. Looking to Becker, perhaps, or a reputable tomahawk company making tough, well-cooked, carbon steel.

Skrama.

 
Absolutely! I just couldn't come up with a scenario where a knife would be put through that kind of abuse in any realistic survival situation. I've never needed to baton while camping, and my Becker Bk-7 has been used to do the work of a hatchet, which it breezed through. If anything, I'd say it's overbuilt.

There was a story where someone had to be cut out of a car using a knife.

I think these tests gear more towards a construction knife rather than a bushcraft knife. And they tend to fair a bit better.


The hultafors heavy duty is basically unkillable.

And so it depends what you want it to do.
 
I have an SP10. It's a good knife, but.......

It has a stick tang. All other things being equal, I would choose a knife with a full-width tang for a true survival/hard-use situation.

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I don't totally disagree, however.....a lot depends on how they are made. That goes for stick tang OR full tang.

Stick tangs can be INCREDIBLY tough. I had the unfortunate opportunity (sad/angry story) to take a wood handle off a stick tang bowie I built. I was.....how shall I put it....emotional. I did things to that blade out of anger trying to utterly destroy it to justify completely starting over. I finally took a four pound sledge to the whole thing.....and it still was barely damaged! It took my bandsaw and grinder to ultimately get the handle off. The blade/tang were pretty much undamaged. It was rehandled and finished out nicely.

Conversely, I've seen more than a couple full tangs break rather easily due to holes drilled in the tang or skeletonizing.

It all depends on HOW it's done.
 
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