The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
It’s like the edge vs edge impact. The harder knife wins the battle.
000Robert
Hey sorry friend, I just noticed some of your comments were directed at me. No, I don't own a belt and this knife is fairly new. I used it to cut fish and food for awhile, then touched it up on the white sharpmaker stone. It came to hair shaving REALLY QUICKLY, which now I understand why.
And no, it wasn't petrified wood lol...
Ever wonder why there is a bucket of water next to the grinder in a knifemakers workshop?Maybe the manufacturer used a dry belt? Anytime I see a photo of a blade chipping like that that is supposed to be made of quality steel, I always question the person that chipped the blade edge. And using a dry belt to profile/ sharpen a knife is a quick way to ruin the heat treat at the knife bevels.
I'm reading about it online - I have no idea what the knife has been through. And people that throw up photos like that very rarely give a detailed description of the life of the blade as they know it. That's why I always first lay blame on the person using the knife.
Ever wonder why there is a bucket of water next to the grinder in a knifemakers workshop?
Fingers will burn way before steel gets tempered. Did someone say these things to you or it's your own thought proces?That bucket of water means nothing to the edge bevels. The steel is so thin there that you can ruin the heat treat on the bevels without even feeling it. That's why I'm careful who I buy knives from, and why I bought a Wicked Edge to put perfect edge bevels on my knives with without damaging the heat treat.
Fingers will burn way before steel gets tempered. Didi someone say these things to you or it's your own thought proces?
Idk m8, things like Magnacut, cruwear, 3/4v come pretty damn close.It's one of those things where there will always be a compromise. Choosing the right tool for the right job is as/more important than the steel. I'm not going to use a Busse to slice apples, nor would I use a puuko the chop logs.
I think with folding knives edge retention is the most important for the tasks most are designed for. Everyone wants that "perfectly balanced" steel, and it has yet to exist.
With camp fixed blades I'll sacrifice some edge retention for strength and toughness. I like a blade that is thin enough that if necessary I can cut food with but stout enough to handle heavier tasks.
Corrosion resistance isn't a big deal to me, I don't sweat much and it's only humid here for 3-4 months. I take care of my knives, dry them off, keep them dry in a case with desiccant or in the sheath.
I meant about the absolutism. Why can't we have balance, as mentioned. Again, as I've said before, right tool for the right job. I'll take a high hardness thin blade over an obtuse tough blade if I HAVE to choose.Idk m8, things like Magnacut, cruwear, 3/4v come pretty damn close.
100%. Right tool right job every time. Geometry>Steel every time as well. Not to mention people often do the same task 2 very different ways, so being objective about a best anything is nearly impossible.I meant about the absolutism. Why can't we have balance, as mentioned. Again, as I've said before, right tool for the right job. I'll take a high hardness thin blade over an obtuse tough blade if I HAVE to choose.
A Gedankenexperiment: Let's assume Busse had found a steel maker that could make a powdered or droplet version of A8mod and call it Infi.
Maybe the manufacturer used a dry belt? Anytime I see a photo of a blade chipping like that that is supposed to be made of quality steel, I always question the person that chipped the blade edge. And using a dry belt to profile/ sharpen a knife is a quick way to ruin the heat treat at the knife bevels.
I'm reading about it online - I have no idea what the knife has been through. And people that throw up photos like that very rarely give a detailed description of the life of the blade as they know it. That's why I always first lay blame on the person using the knife.
As a rule, we use the PM process not to improve metal, but to allow the creation of alloys not readily possible with a conventional melt. As a rule, it's not to improve the metal, it makes alloys possible. For example, you might want a lot of vanadium carbide in your steel, but it falls out of solution too fast when used in large amounts, so the only way to get a good distribution is to use a PM process.
I do not think A8 will be improved with the PM process. I think it doesn't need it and you'll probably only introduce problems.
I learned that about AEB-L, forget who here told me that. I asked about powder metallurgy AEB-L, and someone pointed out that it would be no improvement because it's a simple alloy that doesn't require powder metallurgy to form.Thanks a lot, Nathan. I learned something. That finally explains to me why some steels come only in powder form, and others (like AEB-L) only as ingots. I guess I have to study Larrin’s crystal/micro-graphs some more ...
I will ask you some follow up question on D2 vs. CPM D2 vs. PSF27 in your subforum in the future, if you don’t mind.
Roland.
Not sharpening. It's convexing the edge. I guess sharpening was done just before hand polishing.Here you go, skip to 1:20 to see the sharpening. Take it for what it is, the video is 10 years old so not sure if the processes have changed? I make no judgements or statements on it, as I'm not a knife maker. Except for the lack of masks, holy moly, I started coughing just from watching that dude sanding the handle!
As a rule, we use the PM process not to improve metal, but to allow the creation of alloys not readily possible with a conventional melt. As a rule, it's not to improve the metal, it makes alloys possible.
I'm also a bit confused with this one. I'm no expert, but I thought it was widely agreed by the experts that for example CPM-D2 is considerably tougher than ingot D2 because the carbides are smaller and more spread out and therefore has less potential stress points in the matrix of the steel.I thought the PM prices *could* "improve" steel by reducing the size of carbides and making the steel matrix more homogenous? Not all steels, but definitely some of them, kind Cruwear?
^ not trying to argue, generally want to learn.