How much does "toughness" matter?

I'm also a bit confused with this one. I'm no expert, but I thought it was widely agreed by the experts that for example CPM-D2 is considerably tougher than ingot D2 because the carbides are smaller and more spread out and therefore has less potential stress points in the matrix of the steel.
That is correct.

I thought the PM prices *could* "improve" steel by reducing the size of carbides and making the steel matrix more homogenous? Not all steels, but definitely some of them, kind Cruwear?

^ not trying to argue, generally want to learn.

This is also correct. The powered metallurgy process essentially allows large carbide formers that would clump together to well...not do that as much. The more evenly spread out these carbide formers are the more "toughness" the steel will be able to have. Some steels benefit a lot from this, some barely or non at all. And as the other poster was saying, some are not even possible without the CPM process.

An old video explaining the process. May help you understand. Alternatively you can visit Knife Steel nerds which I believe has numerous articles explaining this.
 
Here you go, skip to 1:20 to see the sharpening. Take it for what it is, the video is 10 years old so not sure if the processes have changed? I make no judgements or statements on it, as I'm not a knife maker. Except for the lack of masks, holy moly, I started coughing just from watching that dude sanding the handle!


I'll never buy a BRK. I wonder if the people in the video are still alive?
 
That is correct.



This is also correct. The powered metallurgy process essentially allows large carbide formers that would clump together to well...not do that as much. The more evenly spread out these carbide formers are the more "toughness" the steel will be able to have. Some steels benefit a lot from this, some barely or non at all. And as the other poster was saying, some are not even possible without the CPM process.

An old video explaining the process. May help you understand. Alternatively you can visit Knife Steel nerds which I believe has numerous articles explaining this.

LMAO! I've read most of Larrin's new book and I still don't understand it. When I start reading all the austinitizing and austitimaggotizing my eyes just start seeing double and I start having brain farts. I guess I'm just a simple dumbass. Oh well, I can still enjoy knives. We can't all be geniuses...
 
LMAO! I've read most of Larrin's new book and I still don't understand it. When I start reading all the austinitizing and austitimaggotizing my eyes just start seeing double and I start having brain farts. I guess I'm just a simple dumbass. Oh well, I can still enjoy knives. We can't all be geniuses...
I don't think it takes any inate intelligence to learn, just time and effort. He iirc has a PhD in metallurgy so has most likely spend over a thousand hours studying it himself.

Basically powered metal allows steels to have more alloying elements we love like Wolfram, vanadium, etc etc without being to fragile and so easily broken. That is the super basic version lol
 
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I don't think it takes any inane intelligence to learn, just time and effort. He iirc has a PhD in metallurgy so has most likely spend over a thousand hours studying it himself.

Basically powered metal allows steels to have more alloying elements we love like Wolfram, vanadium, etc etc without being to fragile and so easily broken. That is the super basic version lol
*innate
(I'm not here to learn, just to argue)
Actually I agree, to a point a PhD is a lot about persistence. However, I'm guessing it's more like 10,000 hours, plus any spent in self-motivated investigation, which could be significant in this case.
 
I thought the PM prices *could* "improve" steel by reducing the size of carbides and making the steel matrix more homogenous? Not all steels, but definitely some of them, kind Cruwear?

^ not trying to argue, generally want to learn.

You're not wrong. That's largely the same thing that I was saying. D2 can be made by a conventional melt (so can 3V) but you get aggregation of carbides while the material is solidifying. It is impossible to distribute these carbides after solidification. You can break them up and dissolve a lot of it in your heat treat, but they just come back because, although carbon can move, the alloys forming the carbides can not, and they just re-form in the same place during temper.

Some alloys can really only be effectively made by PM

Some alloys can be made both ways and each way shows different properties including different chemistry in the carbides that are formed

Some alloys could be made both ways but there is no good reason to use a PM process. AEBL for example and I would argue A8 as well. <---- that's all I was saying. Not only is the juice not worth the squeeze, you'd probably have a negative net impact on the steel because the problems that can come with the PM process.

CPM D2 is a good example of a steel used in knife making where the conventional melt often makes a better knife blade than the PM version. Yes, the toughness is reduced in the conventional melt version, but so is the real world edge retention. If you need a tougher D2, PM D2 is probably not the answer. A different alloy might be the answer.

The small rounded carbides in the PM version of D2 do not cut the same way and tend to fall out of the cutting edge negating their wear resistance in a knife edge application compared to a conventional melt. I have also seen better edge stability with the conventional melt for reasons I could only speculate.

I love PM steels and I use them almost exclusively, but they are not always the answer.
 
For an EDC pocket knife thats to be actually used I prefer edge retention and ease of sharpening. That generally means hardness over impact and corrosion resistance. I don't need the toughness of a high chrome content near stainless "super steel" like M390 unless its for BBQ bragging rights, I'm planning on using the blade for chopping or scraping, or I'm somehow going to be separated from my diamond stones for an extended period. Don't get me wrong, M390 is wonderful stuff, but it isnt the easiest to hand sharpen when it does need it, especially if you have to re-profile the angle even just a little.

Theres a reason plain old 1095 continues to be popular and makes for a great EDC, especially for a pockedoodler / whitler knife.
 
I don't think it takes any inate intelligence to learn, just time and effort. He iirc has a PhD in metallurgy so has most likely spend over a thousand hours studying it himself.

Basically powered metal allows steels to have more alloying elements we love like Wolfram, vanadium, etc etc without being to fragile and so easily broken. That is the super basic version lol

I know - I was just joking around.
 
You mention 1095 and that's part of what got me on this question. There are several semi stainless and stainless steels that have equal or higher toughness ratings, equal or better edge retention ratings, and are rust resistant.

Specifically, the Mora Garberg is offered in 1095 (or equivalent) and 14C28N stainless. So why would I buy the 1095 version?

Also, people talk about how tough 1095 is, that it's perfectly suitable for "hard use". Steels like S35VN, SPY28, and CPM-154 are measured at a similar toughness. So I'm wondering if this is the "minimum" amount of toughness that's "needed", generally speaking, and anything higher is getting into overkill.

So when picking the best knife for me, I'm probably going to be looking at the "minimum" toughness and then the try to figure out the best "minimum" of the other attributes to get the best balance.

When I say "minimum", I mean the smallest amount where I wouldn't notice any difference in use compared something else.
Sparking flint, where you need a high-carbon steel, otherwise

ESEE offers knives in 1095 and S35VN. They have a Youtube video showing that their S35VN blades can break, but 1095 doesn't. I vaguely recall they were batoning a log or some such thing; I might be wrong.

My two ESEEs are S35VN. I like stainless. I will be astounded if I ever break either knife, or if I ever need to baton a log.

The DBK boys have shown a couple times that they can baton with a Benchmade Bugout in S30V or M390.
Sure but also consider that their 1095 is 56-58 HRC while their S35VN is 60 HRC

They didn't break it doing actual batoning; he broke it trying to unstick the knife from the log. Holding the knife by the handle, he slammed the log down (hanging from the knife blade) trying to pop the knife free. Probably didn't hit square and torqued the blade. S35VN at 61 HRC actually has a similar level of toughness to 1095 at 57 HRC (both right at 10 ft/lb in lab tests) , but a lot more edge retention and corrosion resistance.

 
They didn't break it doing actual batoning; he broke it trying to unstick the knife from the log. Holding the knife by the handle, he slammed the log down (hanging from the knife blade) trying to pop the knife free. Probably didn't hit square and torqued the blade. S35VN at 61 HRC actually has a similar level of toughness to 1095 at 57 HRC (both right at 10 ft/lb in lab tests) , but a lot more edge retention and corrosion resistance.

Which is exactly my point, many stainless steels outperform 1095 in every possible metric at the same hardness except for maybe ease of sharpening and ease of heat treatment. There are plenty of cheap, high carbon, low alloy steels that are stupid easy to sharpen, easy to heat treat, tougher and hold a better edge than 1095 if you really must have that ease of sharpening or you like getting a nice patina on your knife. I really don't understand people's love for 1095 other than nostalgia purposes. Yes I get that it works and people have been using it for over a century, but for most of human history people were making knives and swords out of mystery steel that derived its carbon content from animal bones tossed in and probably performed akin to modern Chinese junk steel, just because it worked in the past doesn't mean we have to stick to whatever our ancestors used when we have better options at a similar price point or even cheaper at times.
 
Which is exactly my point, many stainless steels outperform 1095 in every possible metric at the same hardness except for maybe ease of sharpening and ease of heat treatment. There are plenty of cheap, high carbon, low alloy steels that are stupid easy to sharpen, easy to heat treat, tougher and hold a better edge than 1095 if you really must have that ease of sharpening or you like getting a nice patina on your knife. I really don't understand people's love for 1095 other than nostalgia purposes. Yes I get that it works and people have been using it for over a century, but for most of human history people were making knives and swords out of mystery steel that derived its carbon content from animal bones tossed in and probably performed akin to modern Chinese junk steel, just because it worked in the past doesn't mean we have to stick to whatever our ancestors used when we have better options at a similar price point or even cheaper at times.
1095 has one distinct advantage. It can be purchased, ground, and heat treated very easily.

Additionally it's plentiful.
 
They didn't break it doing actual batoning; he broke it trying to unstick the knife from the log. Holding the knife by the handle, he slammed the log down (hanging from the knife blade) trying to pop the knife free.

That's funny because I seem to remember the folks at esee once saying battoning is silly and unnecessary and you shouldn't do it.
 
I think that most of us understand by now that forging a clean modern steel does not automatically improve it.
Besides knives and engineering, I have interests in guns and cars. I've read many times that S&W forged frames are stronger than Ruger cast frames. I've also read that certain forged car engine parts are superior to cast parts. But I've also read that a forged knife is no better than a cast steel knife. So I don't know how to correlate what appears to be a discrepancy.
 
Besides knives and engineering, I have interests in guns and cars. I've read many times that S&W forged frames are stronger than Ruger cast frames. I've also read that certain forged car engine parts are superior to cast parts. But I've also read that a forged knife is no better than a cast steel knife. So I don't know how to correlate what appears to be a discrepancy.
Knives go thru a heat treating proces that obliterates prior state.
 
Besides knives and engineering, I have interests in guns and cars. I've read many times that S&W forged frames are stronger than Ruger cast frames. I've also read that certain forged car engine parts are superior to cast parts. But I've also read that a forged knife is no better than a cast steel knife. So I don't know how to correlate what appears to be a discrepancy.
There really isn't a discrepancy.

Forged steel parts are almost always stronger than cast steel parts. With knives, they're not really cast.

Even though the steel might be initially poured into a mold, most all knife steel is forged/rolled to shape before it ever gets to the point of being sold in sheet/bar form to the manufacturer or maker. They then decide to forge a blade or grind a blade (stock removal) out of the sheet or bar. So they're never really making a knife directly from cast steel.
 
Toughness is important because, with a high toughness steel, you can have a very thin edge without risks of chipping. And a thin edge is key to performance.
So you should not compare only the toughness but also the thin edge that you can use due to this toughness.
Agree.
You don't  need a "modern" "high end" steel for a tough thin edge that won't chip, either. 👍
I keep all my folders (slipjoints and friction folders) and non-Puukko sheath knives sharpened to 10° to 12~12.5° per side (20 to 25 degrees inclusive).
In over 60 years of using 1095, 10xx, 440A, 440C (it took a bit of time and elbow grease) to get my old Buck 110 with 440C thinned to 12~12.5DPS.) 420HC, 5160 and other "spring steels", generally at under 60 Rockwell C. I've never chipped a blade. I've had an edge roll, once or twice, (not a biggie, stropping on your boot or belt, or using a Butcher's Steel (contrary to popular belief, an old fashioned grooved Butcher's steel does  not remove any steel from the blade.) gets rid of the rolled edge right quick.)
 
Besides knives and engineering, I have interests in guns and cars. I've read many times that S&W forged frames are stronger than Ruger cast frames. I've also read that certain forged car engine parts are superior to cast parts. But I've also read that a forged knife is no better than a cast steel knife. So I don't know how to correlate what appears to be a discrepancy.

Oh yes, that would definitely be true. A forged knife would almost always be better than a cast knife. Probably by a lot. But we are not working with cast steel. It is not remotely "as cast".

The reduction done by the steel mill, with precisely controlled temperatures and carefully calibrated cross rolling process is vastly superior to taking that bar of steel and whacking it with a hammer. It would take a very skilled smith to not reduce the quality of the steel by forging it unless they were starting with poor steel to start with. There are some highly skilled smiths making outstanding knives. But, as a rule, even a monkey such as myself can take modern high quality commercially produced steel and, using a stock removal method, usually make a better knife than even the best smith could hope to achieve with just a hammer and a forge. I'm sure that's bound to ruffle some feathers but I've been around the block a few times, I've done my homework, it's the truth.

That's not to say there can't be some benefit to the forging process. But it's not the squashing with the hammer that is of benefit. The thermocycles actually can be. But that is not an issue with forging technique, as much as a side effect of the forging process and the descending heats that a competent smith will employ that can, under ideal conditions, create a finer grain and, more importantly, an even grain that gives a consistent and uniform heat treat response

But that has nothing to do with a hammer. That's actually just heat and temperature control. Which, again, is not well done in a forge compared to a commercial oven.

One weakness of any steel is having a homogeneous microstructure going into heat treat. Areas that have been subjected to higher heats will tend to have coarser grain. And areas of fine grain will actually process differently than areas with coarse grain. Not just grain size either, but the extent of the spheroidization can be affected by what part of the sheet you're working from or where it came from the stack and this can affect heat treat response.

A big problem with forged knives is a forge heat treat frequently overheats the tip. A tip that has been burned repeatedly during the forging process.

A big problem with stock removal knives is the highly spheroidized microstructure and the inconsistent microstructure creates a different heat treat response in different areas of the knife that were cut from different areas of the sheet. This can be significant with some steels.

High-end steels usually have very tight temperature controls, but not always. And you can have very expensive steel come from a steel mill where the edge of the sheet was rolled under temperature and have intra granular interstitial cracking (all the king's horses and all the kings men are not putting that Humpty Dumpty back together again) and not even realize it. Like anything, it is not always black and white. But, as a rule, the notion that forging a blade makes a superior knife is nonsense.




I honestly am not on this thread to promote myself. But, this is a sword that we made for a cutting competition TV show that demonstrates the insane durability capable with modern high-end metallurgy and heat treat. Forged historical swords would have been destroyed many times over attempting these things

 
But we are not working with cast steel. It is not remotely "as cast".
I was going to say that all steel starts as cast, but I don't know how the PM process works. But of course anything we build with stock removal comes from sheets. I've been to a couple of different steel mills and watched their process- they melt the scrap with electrodes, check the metallurgy, then pour into ingots which they stack somewhere in the warehouse and let cool. Then when they get ready to make shapes they reheat the ingots and run them through rollers to form bars, sheet, structural shapes, reinforcing steel, whatever. So I guess the rolling is what you meant by "not remotely as cast". One steel mill I've been to makes steel for construction- structural shapes and reinforcing steel. The other steel mill does the same but they also make some thinner pieces and they occasionally run material for leaf springs. Both of these mills start with scrap that primarily comes from automobiles. The mill that made leaf springs had bins of alloying materials to go into the mix. It just looked like various forms of crushed rock to me but had familiar names. I wonder if the companies like Carpenter have a less crude process.
The guy beat on that knife pretty hard, and he wasn't even wearing a hockey mask.
 
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