How much of the handle to cover?

Patrice Lemée

Patrice Lemée

Joined
Aug 13, 2002
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I am finishing a small bowie knife and I need to start thinking about a sheath for it. I want to make a strong side angled sheath and I am wondering how much of the handle to left uncovered. My first thought was to cover the blade and have a keeper strap over the guard but I am wondering if that would be ok for this type of sheath or if it makes it look too “aggressive”? If that makes any sense, not sure how else to describe it. :confused:

Do you have any rules that you go by for how much handle to show for different types of sheath?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Do you have any pictures of the knife?
I like to be able to get as close to a full grip on the handle as possible before pulling it out of the sheath. Good retention is my number one concern however. I'm not big on the keeper strap unless it's very easy to take off and put back on with one hand.
 
It really depends on the guard type (single/double) and handle shape. I dislike keeper straps because they get in the way both on removal and replacing the blade. If they must be used, I think press studs tend to break too quickly so I prefer Sam Browns. Velcro clogs up. With a single guard and appropriate handle shaped a wet moulded sheath can give you all the retention you need. I've also seen keeper rods used like yousometimes get on hocho.
 
Here is a pic of the unfinished knife. Still a lot of shaping and finishing to do but it will give you a rough idea.

laminated_bowie_2.JPG


Thanks for your input guys.
 
Pat, I would put that one in a deep seat pouch with the mouth right at 50% of the handle. Right between the two darker spots on the handle in the photo. No retention strap involved. If it is going to go more horizontal, then I would hide about 3/4 to 1 inch more of the handle.

Paul
 
sheathmaker said:
Pat, I would put that one in a deep seat pouch with the mouth right at 50% of the handle. Right between the two darker spots on the handle in the photo. No retention strap involved.

Paul
Click to expand...


I agree with the master..... :thumbup:

Beautiful knife - :cool::thumbup:
 
Thanks Paul, that's what I'll do then. :thumbup:

And thanks for the good words Pocketknifesheaths. Like I said, lots of work to do so hopefully it will look much better than this.
 
Following your suggestions, here is a rough draft of what I am thinking of.



Anything basically wrong that you can see?
 
Pat, I would move the angled stitch line straight up about 3/4" or so to a point where it will intersect with the right angle corner of the loop. This will give you a much stronger attachment. The two angles should be parallel and offer clearance for at least a 1 1/2" belt width. What you have shown is not wrong, it just could be a bit stronger.

Paul
 
My basics are to leave at least two fingers width of the handle to grasp - from there it all depends on how long the handle is and what looks right + proper retention
 
Paul, I have no idea how I did not catch that. Guess that's why you are the pro and not me. :o I think you mean something like this.



I guess I'll have to rework it a bit since I did not measure yet but I don't think it is 1.5" now. I'll see what I can come up with keeping in mind the 2 fingers minimum Chuck.

Thanks again for help guys.
 
Pat, that's more like the way I would do it. One other minor thing.....rather than have the loop curved I would run it straight up on the angle to provide the same top line presentation. This would move the CG of the loop forward on the sheath and probably be a more stable carry. See photo below.

Paul
 
Thanks Paul, I really appreciate you taking time to help me figure this one out. How does this look as far as moving the CG forward?

 
Pat, what I meant was using this last drawing, use the top line angle of the belt loop as the preferred angle of carry. make that your constant. Then using that top base line and figuring a 1 1/2 inch loop width draw two lines 1 1/2 inch apart on a 90 degree perpendicular from the base angle line up top to intersect the sheath edge. Actually taking the "decorative" curves out of the strap which serve no particular purpose is what will move the CG forward. Check the shape of my loop in the photo above for clarification.

Now if you prefer the curved loop then your last drawing is fine. A straight line loop is much more easily adjusted for length and fit prior to sewing because the fold line can be anywhere along its length and not determined by offsetting peaks and valleys which have to be matched up.

Paul
 
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Thanks for the detailed explanations Paul. Sorry to be so hard headed. I need to stop trying to “fancy up” the sheaths so much and concentrate on making sheaths that actually work. When I get that down, maybe I can start experimenting a little but first thing first.

Here is something that is hopefully closer to what you meant. :o

 
One more try, Pat. Look at the photo in post #14. Note the angle and direction which the strap crosses the sheath. Your representation is almost the exact reverse of that.

Paul
 
I don't mean to intrude, but would like to ask Paul if the inner flap of his beltloop is sewn onto the sheath (red line) or if final stitch is the horizontal one



(hope you don't mind, I rotated your picture a bit to match Pat's drawing)
 
Joe, the loop flap as shown in my photo is first sewn grain side to grain side with the top line of the loop strap skived to zero so it will lay nice and flat, along a line slightly above and parallel to the angle stitch line seen later in construction. (Cannot be seen in the previous photo, but it's there...it seems like you are putting it on upside down). After that first stitch line the loop flap is pulled back over itself to expose top grain to the outside and fitted using a 1 1/2 inch belt dummy and marked for cut off at the proper length. After it is measured and cut to fit, I skive the bottom of the loop strap off to zero to make for a nice looking edge to the sheath.
Then backing off 1/2 inch from the edge the triangle stitch line is started to run parallel with the sheath edge. This gives the whole loop terrific strength. The other two sides of the triangle stitching are dependent on the angle placement which is placed to guarantee at least 1 1/2 inch actual belt clearance in the loop. A picture is worth a 1000 words so when you look back at the photo it should become very clear.

This whole deal can be set up at any angle you choose from flat horizontal to 45 or so degrees, but once you make that first grain to grain stitch, you are committed. You will note that the last angle stitch and the top line of the loop are exactly parallel.

A couple of different photos below may make it more clear. First photo is the first step of the operation, second is after loop is fitted and stitched. Final edge stitching has not yet been done in the second photo.


Paul
 
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