How Thick Is Thick Enough?

kgd

Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
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I've been trying to give a little bit of thought to the question of knife thickness and the two questions are:

1) How thick is too thick?
2) How thin is too thin?

Logically the perfect knife seems bounded by these two, but perhaps not. There are more things to simply the thickness of the blade that imparts its characteristics of strength and ability to be flexed.

Blade thickness/length ratio will impart stiffness. Obviously a shorter knife can still be stiff with a thinner stock.

Grind - Full flat vs. convex vs saber or hollow ground. I think the full flat will produce the most flex of these given that it has the most metal removed.

Thinning of the stock at the spine as it approaches the tip. Some knives seem to do this gradually and begin at the handle over a long shallow slope. Other knives are acute and commence a rapid shallowness about 1" from the tip. I think this is forced in part by the type of grind above.

Steel type - this probably has an effect but I don't have enough different steels in my collection to determine if it makes a difference.

All those other add-ons at the spine - sawbacks, swedges, clip-points.

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My delimma is that I think my approach to choosing the best blade stock thickness might have been wrong at the offset. Really, my interest in knives involved at first doing alot of comparison shopping, seeing knife designs that I really liked on the internet and starting to put together lists of knives I liked and their specs. I think this approach influenced me greatly.

It seemed that most of the knives I was looking at were 3/16" and 1/4" thick and I became convinced that this was a product of design follows function. I purchased knives in these thicknesses and it formulated my experience of how a stiff blade behaves. It also formulated, I believe, an erroneous opinion of how a thinner stock behaves, without considering all of the other features above.

Okay, so my point to this thread is - I'm pretty surprised with the degree of stiffness of this new .125" breeden pathfinder. At 5" length, there is no way you could have convinced me two months ago that this knife would be as stiff as it is. It feels like a real performer and up to task for heavy duty jobs. Perhaps not a prybar, but certainly a heavy performer for other things. I'd be interested to compare the 4" pathfinder in .125" stock with .187" stock. My feeling is that for the same blade length, grind and profile both stock thickness would perform pretty much identically.

So when does 3/16" really start to show a difference over 1/8" in terms of blade flex? Is it a 6" knife?

At the other scale, 0.109" is definitely thinner in a way that you can directly feel in ability to flex the blade. I think 3.5" is about as long a blade as I like in this thickness before I start to feel that it is losing strength.

What are others thoughts on this? How has your experience with a given knife changed your attitudes?
 
As I understand it, the heat treatment of the blade will also have a lot of effect on its stiffness.

Something you didn't mention is that blade thickness also affects cutting performance. For some tasks (food preparation comes to mind) a thin blade works far better than a thick one, fairly independent of stiffness because once the blade enters the thing being cut, there's less drag.

So, I guess I'm saying that your original questions of 'too thick' and 'too thin' depend on what it is you want to do with the knife.
 
IMO, anything thicker than about 1/8" stops being about cutting and more about prying or simply bragging rights. Thickness sells higher end knives it seems, even if it comes at the cost of cutting ability.

Tramontina machetes are somewhere around .075" to .085" and are plenty stiff enough for their intended jobs and most knife applications, even when the blades are over 12" long. Contributing to stiffness is the fact that they don't have full grinds but simple bevels, maximizing cross sectional area. This is a similarity with Scandi grinds, as typical Mora knives top out around .098".

Full grinds can enhance the cutting ability of thick blades. Still, I find thick blades more an aesthetic, particularly for smaller, narrower blades.
 
Thickness is overrated. Thin blades outperform at everything a knife is intended to do. Now, if you want to pry (heaven forbid, your grandad would get you with a switch for prying with a knife), or chop concrete ( why would you do that?) you need a knife that isn't made to cut. If you want to cut, thin is the way to go.

1/8" is plenty thick for a blade. My Nessmuks are 3/32 and dangerous wicked ass sharp slicers! For a bushcraft knife, of course.

If you're gonna chop, you need weight, and thickness helps. A thin khukuri would be dumb. A thin Battle Mistress would be silly.

A thick small knife is just as silly.
 
I agree 100%...I am often forced to consider the possibility that a lot of people who consider themselves "knife people" are in fact "knife owners." I would be extremely surprised if many people who spent a lot of time actually USING their knives (for cutting, not as wrecking bars) liked the cutting performance they got out of thick knives.

I think that the internet tends to create a "survive impossible tests" atmosphere, because you can put a knife through hell and videotape it, and it's fun to see. But that doesn't really tell you anything about the knife in terms of using it as a cutting tool. The only way you really get to know knives is by spending a lot of time doing knife tasks, like...

skinning
carving
filleting
slicing up food
chopping wood, if you have a big knife
quartering game animals
more carving

If you are doing a lot of this kind of stuff, then other than the chopping and MAYBE quartering there is no advantage to a thick knife. In fact it's a pain. I don't even really enjoy filleting with my Aurora. You couldn't pay me to do it with my Scrapyard...
 
1/8" is plenty thick for a blade. My Nessmuks are 3/32 and dangerous wicked ass sharp slicers! For a bushcraft knife, of course.

If you're gonna chop, you need weight, and thickness helps. A thin khukuri would be dumb. A thin Battle Mistress would be silly.

A thick small knife is just as silly.


What FB said:thumbup:
 
Several years ago now I had a German dagger I did not want. I'm not superstitious but it did have an association. Being as I didn't want it, and I didn't want anyone else to have it, I adopted a scorched earth policy. I thought it would be a breeze to break given the thin grind and the nature of daggers. I stuck the handle in a vice and a cheat pipe over the blade and was pleasantly surprised at how well it resisted me. I make no claim that it was as superman knife or anything like that, just a plain fast in the hand Solingen pokey tool around $100 USD, and with a blade not too dissimilar to a classic Fairburn Sykes. The grief I had to give that to snap it was far in excess of what I would apply to any regular cutting knife I own in real world use. I started to learn a lot about Tim the tool Taylor and the manly desire for girth implants that day.
 
I agree 100%...I am often forced to consider the possibility that a lot of people who consider themselves "knife people" are in fact "knife owners." I would be extremely surprised if many people who spent a lot of time actually USING their knives (for cutting, not as wrecking bars) liked the cutting performance they got out of thick knives.

I think that the internet tends to create a "survive impossible tests" atmosphere, because you can put a knife through hell and videotape it, and it's fun to see. But that doesn't really tell you anything about the knife in terms of using it as a cutting tool. The only way you really get to know knives is by spending a lot of time doing knife tasks, like...

skinning
carving
filleting
slicing up food
chopping wood, if you have a big knife
quartering game animals
more carving

If you are doing a lot of this kind of stuff, then other than the chopping and MAYBE quartering there is no advantage to a thick knife. In fact it's a pain. I don't even really enjoy filleting with my Aurora. You couldn't pay me to do it with my Scrapyard...

I agree with you & Andy and the knife I reach for more than not is my RC3,I EDC it everyday....it will do everything you listed except chop wood,I am sure it would but I mean ,right tool for the job is not the RC3,I would use a small Axe/Hatchet or a big chopper...some of my blades are for playing around and I will turn them down the road sooner or later but my working blades are my true go to blades the rest are for playing and having fun....or for re-sale to buy real working blades......:thumbup:
 
Several years ago now I had a German dagger I did not want. I'm not superstitious but it did have an association. Being as I didn't want it, and I didn't want anyone else to have it, I adopted a scorched earth policy. I thought it would be a breeze to break given the thin grind and the nature of daggers. I stuck the handle in a vice and a cheat pipe over the blade and was pleasantly surprised at how well it resisted me. I make no claim that it was as superman knife or anything like that, just a plain fast in the hand Solingen pokey tool around $100 USD, and with a blade not too dissimilar to a classic Fairburn Sykes. The grief I had to give that to snap it was far in excess of what I would apply to any regular cutting knife I own in real world use. I started to learn a lot about Tim the tool Taylor and the manly desire for girth implants that day.

God bless you.:thumbup:
 
More often enough I do reach for my Mora 2K. I feel that a knife this size and thickness is more than enough. I have batoned it through some thick wood with no ill effects to the edge or the blade for lateral stress. I have used it for food prep on more than a few occasions, whether it is at home or in the field. If I break it, oh well, I can get a new one for cheap.
I do have better and tougher knives. I just haven't gotten around to them yet for testing. Maybe except for my Rat 7 and Seal pup.
 
IMG_1611.jpg

RC4-SAR5-DMLE-RMD-Bravo1

Here is a few spine shots from a few different blades

Hey Tony are ya sure that's the RMD, it looks to be the same thickness as the DMLE and has square shoulders, mine is only 3/16" and has a rounded spine ?:confused:
 
Yea I am positive,I heard there were two versions ,my 1st if you remeber was Green with tan micarta and it was similar to yours this one,is designed a little different but yes it is a RMD
 
I am in the 3/16ths camp. I think 1/4" is way too thick for any task that I could foresee needing. Unless you are in a mine cave-in and all you have is a knife then it would be appropriate.

However, one point that many people over look in thicker knives is that it does add weight which allows for a smaller knife to make deeper cuts into wood. Case in point, I had a RD-4. I was able to cut down a 4"-5" thick tree in no time at all. Next to my Cold Steel Master Hunter, which is roughly the same length, there was no competition. The MH, at 3/16ths, could never out bite the RD-4.

I sold the RD-4. it was too heavy for me. I never wanted to carry it. I ended up with a F-1, which is 3/16ths and perfect. I decided that shear cutting power is not my highest priority. Other tools could be carried to compensate for the F-1's lack of cutting power. A saw or a machete or simple batoning.
 
Cheers Tony, that must be it then two versions like ya say !
Is it still 3/16" or is it thicker as well ?
 
I am in the 3/16ths camp. I think 1/4" is way too thick for any task that I could foresee needing. Unless you are in a mine cave-in and all you have is a knife then it would be appropriate.

However, one point that many people over look in thicker knives is that it does add weight which allows for a smaller knife to make deeper cuts into wood. Case in point, I had a RD-4. I was able to cut down a 4"-5" thick tree in no time at all. Next to my Cold Steel Master Hunter which is roughly the same length there was no competition. The MH at 3/16ths could never out bite the RD-4. I sold the RD-4. it was too heavy for me. I never wanted to carry it. I ended up with a F-1, which is 316th and perfect.

I agree with ya as well bro, 3/16" seems just the right compromise for an all round do-it-all blade !
Some go on about thinner blades being better slicers, hell does it really matter if your tomato slices aren't wafer thin or your steak is cut into man sized mouthfulls instead of elegant strips ? I can always make my knives sharper but strength and toughness is something the knife either has or it doesn't !!!
In saying that about the 3/16" blades though, if I know I'm going out with some planned prying and splitting in mind then it's still a 1/4" blade that goes with me !!!;)
 
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