How To: interior for display case (image heavy)

[Bruce Bump]

There is no end to this gun/knife project. Now I need to make a storage/display box for it. I had the black walnut box made here in town by a custom cabinet maker. I just need to make the interior to hold the pistol, powder flask, 2 screw drivers, and the bullet/cap box.

There are other ways to do this but I do it this way and it works for me. This one is for "Liberty" gun/knife but a nice bowie can be stored and displayed this way. I have done these with a glass top too.

Here are all the parts that will go in the case

This is MDF from Home Depot. It looks like particle wood but is compacted saw dust and for interior use only. I like it because it shapes, sands and finishes easy.

Just saw and sand it to the right size to fit into the box. I like to leave it a tad smaller for easy removal. It gives a nice place to store the certificate of authenticity and ivory affidavit or origin underneath too.

I make two of them. The top one will get cut up so the parts will nest down into it.

 

[Bruce Bump]

On a piece of heavy paper I place the componants and arrange them the way it looks good and fits best.
Next trace around everything leaving some wriggle room and cut out them out.

Next simply transfer the paper template to one of the MDF boards and cut them out on a jig saw.

Place the components into the openings and make minor adjustments around the edges so there is space around them.

The parts that are cut out will be used to go back in and modified as spacers. Here I have rough drawn the shape of the side of the gun. The goal is to contour the spacer so the gun sits level and doesnt rock around.

 

[NickWheeler]

Has the makings for great stuff Bruce! Looks like your cabinet guy did a beautiful job on the box.

It's been a long time since we'd gotten to just bs, and it was really nice getting to hang out with you and bs so much over at Josh and Jodi's!

 

[Bruce Bump]

I use a foredom to contour and sand the spacers.

OK it fits good but is too thick. I measure it to see how much I need to saw off to lower the gun down. I use a table saw and cut off 3/8".

I know, dont worry it cut through some of my contoured piece. Oh and the saw isnt running so my fingers are not about to get cut off.

 

[Bruce Bump]

Has the makings for great stuff Bruce! Looks like your cabinet guy did a beautiful job on the box.

It's been a long time since we'd gotten to just bs, and it was really nice getting to hang out with you and bs so much over at Josh and Jodi's!

He makes quality cabinets for several catholic churches. I picked out the black walnut and told him my size requirements. This is about the 4th one he's done for me. I used to store these guns in a leather bound book with the pages cut out but my friend and neighbor, Ivan, the bookmaker died of cancer last year. No more books.

Thats the nice thing about hammer-ins is the good times with friends. Knife shows dont always give ya enough time to just BS

 

[Tom Lewis]

Thanks Bruce, I always look forward to seeing your work. Tom Lewis

 

[Bruce Bump]

Ok so I just glue the pieces inside the cut-out.

The screw drivers get the same treatment. The idea is to keep trimming the spacers so they are about level with the top surface.

Here is a little trick I use to get them out. Simple sand a bevel off the end so you just push down and it pops up.

Now glue both screw driver spacers in place

 

[Bruce Bump]

Assemble the parts to see if other height adjustments need to be made. I see the powder flask is too high so I will grind away wood under it until the spout is about the same level as the screw drivers.

These shaded areas need to be ground away and sanded to the correct depth again so things all sit level.

To make it easy to remove the components I make some finger grip recesses.

Everything looks to be the right height now. I didnt do anything to the bullet/cap box spacer as it was OK if I just left it out.

Now I touch up the side walls with a file and sandpaper.

Now simply glue and clamp the top onto the base. I use Elmers glue. This is where I am at the momment. Coming next is beveling the sharp edges and filling gaps and saw kerfs. Stay tuned for the Flocking. Thats my favorite part.
Thanks for looking.

 

[TekSec]

Man, that's almost as much work as you put into the metal work! Great thread. Maybe someday I'll have something worthy of putting into a display box

 

[James_Terrio]

Outstanding WIP, as always. I sincerely hope you make a video one day.

 

[Dan Seaver]

Bruce that is amazing, thank you for sharing your methods with us! I can't wait to see the finished product. :thumbup:

 

[gixxer]

Taking the time to post your progress on stuff like this gives me huge motivation to better my skill instead of doing the same thing every time! Of course this does not mean I am gonna go out and start making a pistol knife combo this weekend, baby steps...

 

[Bruce Bump]

I had to order the flocking in the right color "Wine" and it came in today so I can get back on this project.

Here I am using painters caulk to fill the gaps around all the cut out inserts. Next I rounded all the sharp edges with the dremel and hand sanded them. Next I spayed the entire thing with spray laquer. Two coats to seal the wood.

Here is the flocking kit. Its made by Don Jer and it works pretty good. It has an adhesvive (lead based paint) in the color of your choice and the same color of rayon fibers. The fibers go into the cardboard hand pump and get pumped onto the wet paint.
I painted it on as a primer coat and will give it the real treatment in the morning.

See those dry spots? Thats no good, the flocking wont stick there so I'm glad I'm giving it another coat.
I know it looks like hell right now but just wait until you see the flocking.

 

[Keith_H]

Wow I guess a shepard really does have to tend to his flock.

 

[Bruce Bump]

I had time today to flock the block. Here I'm painting the colored adhesive on thick and even. Next pump the colored rayon fibers onto the wet paint very thick because the excess will dump out after the paint dries. I forgot to flock the inside of the round brass bullet box so I will do that too.
Tomorrow

 

[Harleyfx69]

wow that looks very nice ,

a suggestion to you, for your glue, titebond 2 or 3 works worlds better than elmers

the bond of the 2 pieces of wood is stronger than the wood itself,

also have you thought of using foam pieces for your boxes ?

thats what we use for rifle cases and what not .. easy to shape to size,

 

[Bruce Bump]

wow that looks very nice ,

a suggestion to you, for your glue, titebond 2 or 3 works worlds better than elmers

the bond of the 2 pieces of wood is stronger than the wood itself,

also have you thought of using foam pieces for your boxes ?

thats what we use for rifle cases and what not .. easy to shape to size,

I dont think the elmers will let go with this kind of project.

I am interested in your rifle cases. What kind of material goes over the foam? Is it stiff enough to flock? I talked to somebody today that says he has seen felt used in gun cases. The felt is wet and formed into the cavities.

 

[TekSec]

Bruce,

We actually have some high density foam at work. It's hard enough to stand on and not even sink into it. We also have a $150,000 CNC router (still waiting for power to be hooked up) to mill the stuff for custom fit equipment casings. Overkill for us really but apparently they had money to burn last year Of course, I can guarantee it would take me longer to CAD the layout for a box like yours than it takes for you completely finish one they way you do it

 

[foxbat34]

Bruce,
Thanks for the tips you bring to us. It is great to have someone of your caliber (pun intended) show your process. Keep it up!

 

[Allen Newberry]

I love your WIP threads keep them coming! You really should write a book or two.