- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 4,842
I've had my Axis for quite a while now, courtesy of Les. I've made
this my everyday carry 4"-blade folder, and have learned a bit about
what makes this knife perform so well. Most strikingly, I've found
that it takes a little work to really bring out the best in the Axis
lock. The incredible ergonomics, solid lock, and recurved geometry
you get for free from Benchmade -- a real high-performance edge you'll
have to do for yourself.
*** Are You Leaving Some Performance On The Table?
I've been testing my Axis versus other people's Axisii over the past
few months. Nothing too rigorous, just a quick test of slicing rope
or whittling, and see how the two knives perform. Usually this is a
test of the other guy's Axis with factory edge versus my Axis with my
edge. A typical test with (say) 1.25" 3-strand rope, might yield the
following: other guy's axis makes it through 1/8-1/4 of 1 strand with
one swipe, my axis makes it completely through 2 strands and partly
through a 3rd strand with one swipe. That's a performance difference
of 700%.
*** Anatomy of the High Performance Recurved Blade
Let's stop here for a second and talk about what makes a recurved
blade work. First let's get our terms straight, starting from the
tip. Underneath the tip, the edge curves downward -- this is the
traditional "belly". The belly reaches bottom and starts curving
upwards again, in what I call the "front recurve". Then about .5"
from the handle the edge peaks and starts curving downwards again, and
this part I call the "back recurve".
When other people try to cut rope with their Axis, I often see them
laying the Axis between the front and back recurves and trying to saw
through with little bitty sawing motions, and wondering where the
promised performance gains are. The performance secret of the recurve
is the FRONT recurve -- the trick is to have the front recurve hit the
thing-to-be-cut with speed and power. I typically lay the back
recurve on the t-t-b-c, then add weight onto the handle and add speed
as I draw the knife towards me, timing it to have the most power as
the front recurve hits the t-t-b-c. The front recurve then bites in
deeply, and I pull the knife all the way through the material, then
lay it back down at the back recurve. I can cut that 1.25" rope in 2
slices this way, whereas it'd take much more time and energy to cut
the rope using itty bitty sawing motions.
As you might imagine, then, getting the front recurve perfect is the
main objective in my sharpening strategy. The back recurve is the
least important part, as it does the least cutting -- which is good,
since it's the most awkward part to sharpen due to the thumb studs. I
use the belly for things like opening mail and other push/zipper cuts.
The first thing I do to Benchmade's factory bevels are thin them out.
I now use the Spyderco 204 Sharpener for this. In theory any v-stick
sharpener will work, but I've found the 204 has features that are a
must for recurved blade sharpening.
*** The Thinning Bevels
First, I'm going to use the 204's 15-degree slots with the coarse
stone, on the triangle edge. Why the edge and not the flat? Because
the key to getting the back recurve sharp is to use a sharpening stick
that is much smaller in diameter than the diameter of the recurve.
This is the thinning bevel phase, and I do this phase in sections.
First I thin the back recurve (the thumb studs get in the way a bit at
15-degrees. Then I switch to the flat part of the stones for the
front recurve and belly. I use a magic marker extensively in this
process. I magic marker up the edge, and the objective is to bring
the 15-degree thinning bevel to within say 1/32" of the very edge (do
not go all the way and create a burr).
*** The Cutting Edge
Once the thinning bevels are complete to my liking, I switch the
coarse stones to the 20-degree slots, using the corner side for the
first few swipes then switching to the flat side of the stone. Now
I'm doing full smooth strokes, from the end of the back recurve all
the way to the tip, drawing the knife towards me. I start with the
corner of the stone because that gets the back recurve the best, then
I switch to the flats because the works faster on the rest of the
blade.
During the stroke, it's important to keep the edge of the blade
perpendicular to the stone (or, think of it as keeping the edge
horizontal). So when I start with the back recurve, I raise the
handle up in the air a bit. As I pull towards me, I lower the handle
so it's parallel to the ground just as I get to the beginning of the
front recurve. Then lower the handle through the front recurve, and
raise it again as I get to the belly. This sounds complicated but
becomes very obvious if you just look at the edge and the stone.
Whatever part of the edge is hitting the stone, make sure that part is
completely horizontal.
I do these strokes one side only until I get a burr along the entire
length of the other side of the edge, then switch sides and repeat.
Once that's done, I switch sides between each stroke. Go to the fine
stones and continue switching sides between each stroke, and
lightening the pressure. Strop off whatever remains of the burr.
*** Getting the Right Grit for Performance
Now I have a thin, polished edge with no burr. This edge will whittle
and shave like crazy, but won't slice well due to the polish. Now
stick the coarse stones back in the 20-degree slot. Using very very
light strokes, stroke the front and back recurve ONLY through the
coarse stones (not the belly, we'll keep that polished). Don't push
too hard or you'll create new burrs. This will rough up the front
(most important) and back recurve, so it'll slice like crazy. I keep
the front belly polished to open mail and do push cuts.
*** The Results ...
Now we have an Axis that can outperform the factory Axis by 700% at
times! It's thinner and more polished than the factory Axis at the
belly, so it'll out push-cut the factory Axis. It's thinner and more
coarse than the factory Axis at the recurve, so it'll WAY outperform
the factory Axisfor slicing. In fact, with this edge, the Axis will
probably easily outperform every other non-recurved folder you have
for slicing, and even the recurved blades with more polished or
thicker edges.
Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 10 June 1999).]
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 10 June 1999).]
this my everyday carry 4"-blade folder, and have learned a bit about
what makes this knife perform so well. Most strikingly, I've found
that it takes a little work to really bring out the best in the Axis
lock. The incredible ergonomics, solid lock, and recurved geometry
you get for free from Benchmade -- a real high-performance edge you'll
have to do for yourself.
*** Are You Leaving Some Performance On The Table?
I've been testing my Axis versus other people's Axisii over the past
few months. Nothing too rigorous, just a quick test of slicing rope
or whittling, and see how the two knives perform. Usually this is a
test of the other guy's Axis with factory edge versus my Axis with my
edge. A typical test with (say) 1.25" 3-strand rope, might yield the
following: other guy's axis makes it through 1/8-1/4 of 1 strand with
one swipe, my axis makes it completely through 2 strands and partly
through a 3rd strand with one swipe. That's a performance difference
of 700%.
*** Anatomy of the High Performance Recurved Blade
Let's stop here for a second and talk about what makes a recurved
blade work. First let's get our terms straight, starting from the
tip. Underneath the tip, the edge curves downward -- this is the
traditional "belly". The belly reaches bottom and starts curving
upwards again, in what I call the "front recurve". Then about .5"
from the handle the edge peaks and starts curving downwards again, and
this part I call the "back recurve".
When other people try to cut rope with their Axis, I often see them
laying the Axis between the front and back recurves and trying to saw
through with little bitty sawing motions, and wondering where the
promised performance gains are. The performance secret of the recurve
is the FRONT recurve -- the trick is to have the front recurve hit the
thing-to-be-cut with speed and power. I typically lay the back
recurve on the t-t-b-c, then add weight onto the handle and add speed
as I draw the knife towards me, timing it to have the most power as
the front recurve hits the t-t-b-c. The front recurve then bites in
deeply, and I pull the knife all the way through the material, then
lay it back down at the back recurve. I can cut that 1.25" rope in 2
slices this way, whereas it'd take much more time and energy to cut
the rope using itty bitty sawing motions.
As you might imagine, then, getting the front recurve perfect is the
main objective in my sharpening strategy. The back recurve is the
least important part, as it does the least cutting -- which is good,
since it's the most awkward part to sharpen due to the thumb studs. I
use the belly for things like opening mail and other push/zipper cuts.
The first thing I do to Benchmade's factory bevels are thin them out.
I now use the Spyderco 204 Sharpener for this. In theory any v-stick
sharpener will work, but I've found the 204 has features that are a
must for recurved blade sharpening.
*** The Thinning Bevels
First, I'm going to use the 204's 15-degree slots with the coarse
stone, on the triangle edge. Why the edge and not the flat? Because
the key to getting the back recurve sharp is to use a sharpening stick
that is much smaller in diameter than the diameter of the recurve.
This is the thinning bevel phase, and I do this phase in sections.
First I thin the back recurve (the thumb studs get in the way a bit at
15-degrees. Then I switch to the flat part of the stones for the
front recurve and belly. I use a magic marker extensively in this
process. I magic marker up the edge, and the objective is to bring
the 15-degree thinning bevel to within say 1/32" of the very edge (do
not go all the way and create a burr).
*** The Cutting Edge
Once the thinning bevels are complete to my liking, I switch the
coarse stones to the 20-degree slots, using the corner side for the
first few swipes then switching to the flat side of the stone. Now
I'm doing full smooth strokes, from the end of the back recurve all
the way to the tip, drawing the knife towards me. I start with the
corner of the stone because that gets the back recurve the best, then
I switch to the flats because the works faster on the rest of the
blade.
During the stroke, it's important to keep the edge of the blade
perpendicular to the stone (or, think of it as keeping the edge
horizontal). So when I start with the back recurve, I raise the
handle up in the air a bit. As I pull towards me, I lower the handle
so it's parallel to the ground just as I get to the beginning of the
front recurve. Then lower the handle through the front recurve, and
raise it again as I get to the belly. This sounds complicated but
becomes very obvious if you just look at the edge and the stone.
Whatever part of the edge is hitting the stone, make sure that part is
completely horizontal.
I do these strokes one side only until I get a burr along the entire
length of the other side of the edge, then switch sides and repeat.
Once that's done, I switch sides between each stroke. Go to the fine
stones and continue switching sides between each stroke, and
lightening the pressure. Strop off whatever remains of the burr.
*** Getting the Right Grit for Performance
Now I have a thin, polished edge with no burr. This edge will whittle
and shave like crazy, but won't slice well due to the polish. Now
stick the coarse stones back in the 20-degree slot. Using very very
light strokes, stroke the front and back recurve ONLY through the
coarse stones (not the belly, we'll keep that polished). Don't push
too hard or you'll create new burrs. This will rough up the front
(most important) and back recurve, so it'll slice like crazy. I keep
the front belly polished to open mail and do push cuts.
*** The Results ...
Now we have an Axis that can outperform the factory Axis by 700% at
times! It's thinner and more polished than the factory Axis at the
belly, so it'll out push-cut the factory Axis. It's thinner and more
coarse than the factory Axis at the recurve, so it'll WAY outperform
the factory Axisfor slicing. In fact, with this edge, the Axis will
probably easily outperform every other non-recurved folder you have
for slicing, and even the recurved blades with more polished or
thicker edges.
Joe
jat@cup.hp.com
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 10 June 1999).]
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 10 June 1999).]
