How to Make the Benchmade Axis Perform

Joe, Is yours ATS-34 or M-2? I have been considering one in M-2 but I am really not sure if it is worth it. Opinions?

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Worth what? Benchmade M-2 rules!
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It is tougher than ATS-34, takes a finer edge, holds it at least as well. ATS-34 was never that corrosion proof to begin with. M-2 is a win-win in my opinion.
 
M2 without a doubt is a better performer for me than ATS-34 steel. But then the only blades that have had hard use from me in ATS-34 were Gerber knives. Perhaps they are not as good as the ATS-34 from Benchmade? I cannot say.

M2 is great
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W.A.

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I'd go with M-2 in a heartbeat if all I cared about was performance. I noticed black-T tends to scare people a little, and for that reason have stayed with ATS-34.
 
Joe, your sharpening info is a great help. I am new to sharpening and purchased the sharpmaker. I seem to have a hard time getting the last 1/2" of blade tip of my 710 as sharp as the rest of the blade. Do you have any tips as to stroke pressure as you approach the end of the blade? Thanks, John
 
I have a 710hs and a Lansky, will I have trouble with the Lansky hones and the recurve? I haven't had to sharpen it yet, and am not sure what to expect. thanks

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Jason aka medusaoblongata
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"I have often laughed at the weaklings who call themselves kind because they have no claws"

- Zarathustra
 
I've had good luck with cheese cubes. Show them a little cheese and they'll do anythng.
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Couldn't resist...

AJ
 
Jason, they probably won't have too many problems with the 710. The recurve isn't that big on the knife, and the Lansky uses 1/2" wide hones only. It might round the corners of the stones a little bit gradually, but that isn't a big problem.

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Originally posted by medusaoblongata:
I have a 710hs and a Lansky, will I have trouble with the Lansky hones and the recurve? I haven't had to sharpen it yet, and am not sure what to expect. thanks
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I used my Lansky Diamond set yesterday. You will be able to sharpen almost the whole blade except the little recurve at the end of the blade - the closest part to the handle. You might also remove the thumb stud - it will make the whole process easier. I used the coarse stone and than the fine one.

David

Good luck
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[This message has been edited by David1967 (edited 11-15-2000).]
 
Originally posted by pepsiholic:
Joe, your sharpening info is a great help. I am new to sharpening and purchased the sharpmaker. I seem to have a hard time getting the last 1/2" of blade tip of my 710 as sharp as the rest of the blade. Do you have any tips as to stroke pressure as you approach the end of the blade? Thanks, John
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The biggest help I found here is to make sure that the burr actually extends all the way to the tip, on both sides. Whenever I sharpen and the burr reaches up the belly but not quite to the tip, the tip doesn't end up sharp. So mind the burr! The other thing is that I like to keep the edge perpendicular to the stones (and parallel with the ground). That means as I move up the belly towards the tip, I lift up on the handle, so the part of the edge touching the stone is going directly across the stone.

Beyond that, I don't do anything different at the tip as far as pressure. I use more pressure to create the burr, a little less when I start alternating sides on the coarse hone, and use progressively less pressure from there.

Joe

 
Thanks for the info, Joe. I ordered a 710HS, today. Just got through applying this idea to my Commander. The technique was different because of the single ground edge, and the more aggressive recurve.
The recurve does seem to grab more, and still shaves hair (though it scrapes a little, now). That's ok, cutting hair is not high on my list of priorities
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Next week, I'll do some "heavy duty" cutting with it, and see how much difference there is. I want to see if this reduces the effort/increases cutting power on some of the things I use a knife for daily, like cutting heavy duty hoses, cardboard, rope, etc.
 
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