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- Oct 20, 2008
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- 5,547
Well, I finally got a full size vertical knee mill the other day. This, coupled with the fact that I love daggers, meant I had to make a dagger with milled fullers.
I forged an integral quillon dagger with a 12" blade length from W2 round stock, and did a lot of preliminary shaping of the fittings, then ground the blade close to its final profile and maximum thickness before taper. (Within .005.)
I searched around a bit to found out how people have done it. There's really not a lot, at least for very informative stuff, about doing this. So, I thought I'd post my adventures with it in the interests of adding to the body of knowledge out there.
Here's vid #1, in which I've already begun the milling process and am talking about it while cutting.
[video=youtube;htgR-1ZgN9c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=htgR-1ZgN9c[/video]
Here's vid #2, in which I further talk about the cutter, clamping, and feed.
[video=youtube;jW2g3d0ay1s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=jW2g3d0ay1s[/video]
Here's how the first side turned out:
Here's the second side:
And here's a different angle on the thing, in which you can see the fittings better.
Hope y'all got something out of the post, and if you have suggestions or info to add, please do it. Let's make this the best thread about it on the webz yet. I don't claim this is the best way, or even a really good way necessarily, but it worked well. I made use of what tools I had for the job, for instance I had no ball end mill of the right size, but I did have the big round-corner mill...
I will be hollow grinding the blade tomorrow on a 2" contact wheel I made. The plan is for the fuller to taper in width toward the tip, as the blade tapers, and for the hollow grinds to maintain an even width from plunges to the end of the fuller. I'll post pics of that too.
I forged an integral quillon dagger with a 12" blade length from W2 round stock, and did a lot of preliminary shaping of the fittings, then ground the blade close to its final profile and maximum thickness before taper. (Within .005.)
I searched around a bit to found out how people have done it. There's really not a lot, at least for very informative stuff, about doing this. So, I thought I'd post my adventures with it in the interests of adding to the body of knowledge out there.
Here's vid #1, in which I've already begun the milling process and am talking about it while cutting.
[video=youtube;htgR-1ZgN9c]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=htgR-1ZgN9c[/video]
Here's vid #2, in which I further talk about the cutter, clamping, and feed.
[video=youtube;jW2g3d0ay1s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=jW2g3d0ay1s[/video]
Here's how the first side turned out:
Here's the second side:
And here's a different angle on the thing, in which you can see the fittings better.
Hope y'all got something out of the post, and if you have suggestions or info to add, please do it. Let's make this the best thread about it on the webz yet. I don't claim this is the best way, or even a really good way necessarily, but it worked well. I made use of what tools I had for the job, for instance I had no ball end mill of the right size, but I did have the big round-corner mill...
I will be hollow grinding the blade tomorrow on a 2" contact wheel I made. The plan is for the fuller to taper in width toward the tip, as the blade tapers, and for the hollow grinds to maintain an even width from plunges to the end of the fuller. I'll post pics of that too.