How to mill fullers in a dagger blade- sort of.

Any reason you cut this at an angle rather than using a ball nose end mill? Tramming isn't a big deal I grant you but it seems like more effort that was needed in this case.

-Sandow
 
Didn't have a ball end mill for it, didn't want to wait. I'll try the ball end mill on the next one, then compare the two ways and be able to say I've done both and which I preferred.
 
For the best finish you should use a ball and tilt the head. Use good sharp carbide for your finish pass. This will save you quite a bit of stoning.
 
Thanks Nathan, I'm just now dealing with my finish and thinking I need to improve it! I hoped you'd chime in with some sage advice.
 
I cut fullers before cutting the blade profile so I have square stock to hold onto.
 
This mill of mine is pretty rigid, at least with the table clamped on the apron... the spindle bearings are good.
 
Built up edge, which leads to a crummy gouged finish. It is more easily avoided with carbide.
 
Carbide will also let you have much higher spindle speeds for your finish cut and also let you get away with cutting dry. You might also want to play with a shallower depth for your finishing cut, just remember that if you are cutting at an angle your actual down magnitude is less that what you dial in.

-Sandow
 
I don't even particularly like daggers...but dang that is one sexy piece of steel! Looking forward to the conclusion to another great WIP! Thanks!
 
Yes, I think that next time if I can I will try a 3/4" ball end carbide cutter, an even shallower finishing pass, and a more rigid clamping scheme. The fullers are a bugger to clean up, got one done and going back to work on the other now.

BTW I already managed to stab myself a little... not too bad, only 1/4" deep or so. Whoops.
 
Salem Straub said:
This mill of mine is pretty rigid, at least with the table clamped on the apron... the spindle bearings are good.
Click to expand...

I wasn't disparaging your mill :)

In machinist circles, the BP mill gets referred to as a "drill press" quite often,
compared to the huge industrial mills it's not as rigid.



Sandow said:
Carbide will also let you have much higher spindle speeds for your finish cut and also let you get away with cutting dry. You might also want to play with a shallower depth for your finishing cut, just remember that if you are cutting at an angle your actual down magnitude is less that what you dial in.

-Sandow
Click to expand...

Not when he's raising the table, Z up is up.
 
Last edited:
12345678910 said:
I wasn't disparaging your mill :) ....Not when he's raising the table, Z up is up.
Click to expand...

It's cool man, you know this machine is still new to me and I can't hear anything bad about it just yet. ;) Hey, it's a couple hundred pounds heavier than a comparable BP anyway... one day though, perhaps I'll have a big K&T or Cincinnati to play with.
And, yes you are right- I'm raising the knee, so increased depth of cut is what the dial says it is.

Oh, almost forgot, here's a quick vid of the grinds and fuller as they are now.
[video=youtube;0TbA-NrkJh8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=0TbA-NrkJh8[/video]
 
First of all... OMG puppy!!

Second, Salem that dagger is nothing but pure sexiness I can't wait to see this thing go through the build process! And thanks for the videos.
 
Gorgeous!
Are you using papers & blocks? Have you ever tryied the stones? I found they are quicker to remove stubborn marks.
 
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