How to mill fullers in a dagger blade- sort of.

Might want to try a little smaller round nose end mill first or at least HSS. A 3/4 one in solid carbide will run you 150$ and that's the lowest grade. :(
 
Here's the scrap one: I tried to clamp it after grinding the taper. This is an example of HOW NOT TO DO IT!:

14660983726_e68f04d106_c.jpg
[/url]IMG_5819 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]

The cell phone pic is pretty bad, and I couldn't sharpen it for the one that turned out better.
 
Good pic there, I have a drawer full of stuff like that in my grinding room!
Yep Patrice, that's an expensive cutter!
Stezann, I would love to try some stones for this stuff- indeed, the more sculptural my work gets, the more I realize the need for a good selection of moldmaker's stones. Then I look at the Gesswein chart of stones on the wall and almost call them...
 
12345678910 said:
Not when he's raising the table, Z up is up.
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Duh lol, I'm too used to thinking about it from the perspective of my mill.

Patrice is right that the cost can be prohibitive on larger tools. The cheapest 3/4" ball nose carbide I found was $115 (http://www.amazon.com/Bassett-MSE-V..._3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1405704251&sr=1-3) and god only know what their carbide quality is like. For $40 you can get an entire set of HSS mills from 3/4" to 1/8" http://www.amazon.com/HSS-Mill-Flut...al&ie=UTF8&qid=1405707183&sr=1-2&keywords=set. Might be practical to play with Chicom junk until you decide for sure what radius you really want.

-Sandow
 
I use 3/8" and 1/2" stubby 2 flute coated carbide from Lakeshore carbide. They're reasonably priced and very high quality. They're American made, give a good finish and hold up well.
 
$35, $65, and $105 respectively for 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" on those 2 flute AlTin coated carbide ball end mills from Lakeshore... good pricing there. I could make do with the 5/8" for sure, with a little math and design adjustment.
Thanks for the recommendation Nathan. See, I think this is becoming the best thread on the net about milling fullers! Good job, guys.

Got the clay done. I'll be working on a chef and folder for the rest of the day, and HTing in the forge when it gets dark out.
 
Is there an indexable end mill with replaceable carbides that would act like a ball mill?


At $100 + for a carbide ball EM, maybe the second or third would pay off.
 
Fascinating work Salem! I'm looking forward to seeing the progress and the completion of this one!
 
didnt think about that but if you knod the head and not tilt it you coudl maybe get one of the round inserts to make mostly full contact as you traverse. part of the tooling i want is the horz. tooling package fro my BP mill then you can jsut slot the thing :)
 
Got it through heat treat, didn't get exactly the hamon I wanted but the whole edge is hardened and it's pretty cool- no way I want to quench this one again, so I'm going forward with what I got. Some shimmed tempers and the small remaining warp is grindable.
Working on a laddermascus liner lock too, had forgotten how much I enjoy those!
 
Well, I got into a time crunch on the dagger finally- didn't take any more process pics of it for that reason. I just got done pulling an all nighter to get the handle glued up so I can finish it later today when I'm up again. Man, for a deceptively simple piece I have sure put some hours into this one.

I'll hopefully post some finish pics of it on this thread, this evening. Off to bed now.
 
Dude I don't know how you did that. Sweet :thumbup:
 
12345678910 said:
I like that


How did you get into those corners and clean out the milling marks ?
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Since first seeing the finished photos, I've been wondering the same thing. A "regular" knife has been know to give me fits. I can't imagine the hand work that went into getting all those nooks and crannies taken care of. I feel like this is one of those knives appreciated in a very different way by anyone who has spent hours with sandpaper and steel... Incredible...


Jeremy
 
gudspelr said:
Since first seeing the finished photos, I've been wondering the same thing. A "regular" knife has been know to give me fits. I can't imagine the hand work that went into getting all those nooks and crannies taken care of. I feel like this is one of those knives appreciated in a very different way by anyone who has spent hours with sandpaper and steel... Incredible...


Jeremy
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Salem isn't really human. I think he has some alien technology he's hiding from the rest of us. :grumpy:
 
Guys, it's just small files, then fine small files, then 220 paper on shop-made sanding backers. I save micarta scraps and make a lot of little sanding sticks, if I need one I don't have I'll just shape a new one real quick. 220, 400, then 600 then pull the finish out straight.

It's a pain in the neck. I can point out SMALL scratches here and there that would have simply taken too much time and material loss to remove... when I getter better with the machining side of things, I hope to do better.

It is true that work like this is best understood by those that have walked the same path. That's why it's so nice to share in shoptalk now and then.
 
Salem, when I first read through this thread, with great interest, I didn't have any notion that this beauty would be mine. Thank you for all you do, and for your very informative "shop-talk" discussion about the making of this extrordinary piece!

Robert
 
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