How to sharpen a Hinderer

I have used a loaded strop bat for my sebenza since I had it to maintain a slightly convex factory edge. With the Xm18 I have to use a different technique (lighter pressure). I just stropped it for the first time and it turned out great! It was still pretty sharp after a week of light use but the strop made it nothing shy of razor sharp. I prefer to keep my edges sharp via regular stropping and it has worked out well for my uses.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by a "loaded strop"? I'd like to buy or make one for my XM18.

I have used a loaded strop bat for my sebenza since I had it to maintain a slightly convex factory edge. With the Xm18 I have to use a different technique (lighter pressure). I just stropped it for the first time and it turned out great! It was still pretty sharp after a week of light use but the strop made it nothing shy of razor sharp. I prefer to keep my edges sharp via regular stropping and it has worked out well for my uses.
 
As opposed to a plain strop: just leather, for example. You load a strop with compounds of various sorts, which accomplish different things.
 
Pardon my ignorance, but what do you mean by a "loaded strop"? I'd like to buy or make one for my XM18.

Such as; Polishes, Diamond Sprays, "Green" oxide compounds etc. You can make a Strop from an old belt, a piece of denim affixed to a flat block of stock, a fine piece of Horse Hide glued to a piece of wood ....
ALL make great Strops which are used to set or straighten an edge - light smooth strokes.
Nice way to maintain a good edge without removing copious (barely negligible) amounts of steel which - Can Not be put back.
 
It's a 4 sided wood "bat" with leather on each side. One side is loaded with black compound (rough grit), one is green (finer grit), one is pink(even finer grit), one is bare leather. 5-10 light swipes on each side in the order listed and it usually turns out pretty good.
 
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Okay. Got it! Sounds like a good way to pass the time especially since I've worn my thumbnail out opening the XM18 to flip it several thousand times!
Thanks!
 
I've finally got my WEPS and after practicing I had a go at my XM-18. I'm quite pleased with the results! I've stuck to the original angle, but that was a lot more obtuse than I originally expected, almost 24 degrees according to the angle cube! I'm thinking about reprofiling to 22 or maybe even to 20 degrees, but I'm afraid, that it'll alter the characteristic look of the spanto grind too much. Any thoughts?
Also, any tips on how to get a perfect mirror finish? As rubi suggested, I've used 1500/2000/2500 grit sandpaper before stropping, and although the result is very shiny, scratches are still visible.
 
I've finally got my WEPS and after practicing I had a go at my XM-18. I'm quite pleased with the results! I've stuck to the original angle, but that was a lot more obtuse than I originally expected, almost 24 degrees according to the angle cube! I'm thinking about reprofiling to 22 or maybe even to 20 degrees, but I'm afraid, that it'll alter the characteristic look of the spanto grind too much. Any thoughts?Also, any tips on how to get a perfect mirror finish? As rubi suggested, I've used 1500/2000/2500 grit sandpaper before stropping, and although the result is very shiny, scratches are still visible.

- I stick with the original profile for several reasons one of them being the characteristic look (and purpose) of the spanto grind - strength and durability.
- You can get those scratches out by continuing with the process (2500 and up) Magnification at the end of each step is key to ensure that step has removed scratches and isn't adding. A change in direction can reveal that as well just to see (scratches this way / become scratches this way l ) .
With the goal being a finish with imperceptable scratches (for those desiring a mirror finish) Separate debate as to "working edge -vs- mirror edge" in the EDC role.
I have done mirror finishes (not on my XM's) with my WEPS on other knives (one has ZDP-189) that was a bugger but I wanted to see if I could do it AND if I could "split hairs" - I did.
 
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Separate debate as to "working edge -vs- mirror edge" in the EDC role.
I have done mirror finishes (not on my XM's) with my WEPS on other knives (one has ZDP-189) that was a bugger but I wanted to see if I could do it AND if I could "split hairs" - I did.

Yeah that's why I'm trying the mirror finish - just to see, if it can be done. I know that a toothier edge is more suitable for EDC tasks, but I love the shine of the polished blade and the look on my friends faces, when they see, that I can shave with my knife :)
What finish do you recommend for a durable working edge? 1000 grits and then strop?
 
Yeah that's why I'm trying the mirror finish - just to see, if it can be done. I know that a toothier edge is more suitable for EDC tasks, but I love the shine of the polished blade and the look on my friends faces, when they see, that I can shave with my knife :)
What finish do you recommend for a durable working edge? 1000 grits and then strop?

While I have my XM still in the sharpener I continually check with my thumb pad until I get that sick "sticky edge" feel then I know I'm there.
It is usually after the ceramics (not in front of me so the # eludes me) But after 1000 a pretty "sticky" edge should be there.
I have my 4 levels of strops but really like my belt w/polish for setting the edge (or straightening the edge as old timers refer to it)
I use my belt all the time for touch-ups.
 
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