How to sharpen a Hinderer

I have always sucked at stropping. Sometimes it gets a little sharper but most of the time there is either no difference or it ends up a little duller. I couldn't figure this out until now...I was stropping at the wrong angle! I was either too shallow and hitting the shoulder or too high and rounding off the edge which is not the same a convexing. Here is a little trick I just figured out when stropping. Before each pass set your angle shallow and push the edge forward, the opposite of the motion when stropping, and at the same time raise your angle until the edge bites the leather. Do not go passed the initial bite. Once it bites the leather preform your stropping motion while maintaining the angle of the bite. I just did this with several knives and was able to improve the edge on all of them instead of it being hit and miss. Each time I push the edge forward to find the correct angle I put a tiny slice in the leather which is the only draw back but at least I am able to consistently strop an edge. :thumbup:


Good deal also, make sure your surface is hard (so the blade edge does not sink at all. That is surface hardness and correct pressure (light) IF it is a leather strop on a hard substrate then make sure the leather remains hard. Cleaning with WD-40 etc will soften the leather and cause rounding.
Glad you are enjoying the consistent success:thumbup:
 
How you doin' CTS ?

Great!! The video below shows my first excellent edge, and it's been cake after that! My XM-18 is 20CV, so when it eventually needs sharpening I'll give her the treatment!

Excuse my tone in this vid, I was extremely elated and tired all at the same time. :D

[video=youtube;9hrMMfUVbAU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hrMMfUVbAU[/video]
 
Sweet, Excellent :thumbup:
Whew when hadn't heard from you was worried that a search party was going to discover your bearded 90 Lb. remains
with a knife sharpener in one hand a note saying, "Damn you" in the other.
Glad it worked out.:)
 
How's the eye! Good to see you are getting a decent edge. If you go back further I gave a tip for not rounding off your knife tips which might help your issue.
 
Questions get asked frequently about effective strops. Been using this on my XM touch-ups. Had both laying around so the price was right.
Leather on the belt is smooth horse hide and the cleaner wax is akin to a very mild polishing compound. Just spread a little on with fingertip.
about 4-5 light strokes per/side and the edge comes back to hair popping sharp. My all Ti EDC has stayed sharp for almost a year using this method, key being not letting the edge
get to far out of whack.

2012-04-11_17-55-26_430.jpg
 
I do believe works very nicely after the Cleaner. Point being, On an XM that is being maintained (not allowed to get too dull) a mild
compound on a strop is a great way to maintain the Very Sharp edge that comes from Rick and Rob. Follow it with a polish on a different part of the strop.
IF edge gets too far out then http://hindereroutdoortactical.com/gun-and-knife-care/knife-care.html
and if need be, a guided system.

Mag wheel polish, nice "pop"
2012-04-29_00-01-50_514.jpg


Sharp
2012-04-29_00-25-49_230.jpg
 
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I have a kitchen steel that gets some use every few days just cause I'm a bit stubborn about my EDC gear. It has to be properly maintained and reliable. Or what's the point?
 
I just caught up with this thread and it almost convinced me to invest in a Wicked Edge. But I still have a couple of questions left you pros (and especially Rubicon) maybe can answer:
- I like the pro-package, but since it contains the heavy base and I'm overseas, I'm tending toward buying the standard set + a couple of stones to save on shipping charges. I'm also considering the Field and Sport since it's compact, is it as good as the standard?
- How does the vice guarantee, that the blade is dead straight? I'd think that a FFG knife could tilt to the left or right.
- Which extra stones and strops do you guys recommend, if I want to put on a "perfect" edge? I know "get them all" would be the best option, but that's not in the budget :(
 
I just caught up with this thread and it almost convinced me to invest in a Wicked Edge. But I still have a couple of questions left you pros (and especially Rubicon) maybe can answer:
- I like the pro-package, but since it contains the heavy base and I'm overseas, I'm tending toward buying the standard set + a couple of stones to save on shipping charges. I'm also considering the Field and Sport since it's compact, is it as good as the standard?
Been awhile since I bought mine, I say Clay at the show last weekend at the ECCKS. Get whaever model that you do not have the base included, that will save you size, weight and money. I made my own base out of MDF I had on hand. It works great and even if you had to buy the materials, you have a couple dollars invested. I like the "Regular" model for its versatility in blade sizes over the F&S. Again, saving money.....you can afix strips of wet/dry sandpaper from an auto parts store to your paddle faces and double or triple your grits for again, a couple dollars . Get 100/200/, 400/600, 800/1000 and then make your own up to 2500. Then a leather belt and some wax (couple dollars, maybe free)
- How does the vice guarantee, that the blade is dead straight? I'd think that a FFG knife could tilt to the left or right.
Strips of Blue painters tape on the blade (inc FFG) enable good vertical clamping.
- Which extra stones and strops do you guys recommend, if I want to put on a "perfect" edge? I know "get them all" would be the best option, but that's not in the budget :( See Above

.....
 
I love this thread!!! I ordered a WE precision sharpener a month ago because of this thread, with strops and an angle cube etc...I'm cracking up about it because I just got word that its shipping today, and I came on line tonight to look for this thread..... An here it is on page one!!! Thanks Rubi your pioneering spirit has made for the Quintessential Hinderer Sharpening guide- suitable for publishing...... Now if I can just get some time and my old beater folders, and..........
 
Enjoy! and Yes, Practice on some kitchen knives and a variety of beaters until you get comfortable with the technique.
Slow and light is my best advice and use a sharpie.
Make sure you warn the Family about the Kitchen knives too :)
 
Thanks for the insight, Rubicon!
So you say the F&S isn't good for large blades? Then it's a no go, I'd like it to be as versatile as possible.
About how big and heavy is the package of the standard system?
 
Thanks for the insight, Rubicon!
So you say the F&S isn't good for large blades? Then it's a no go, I'd like it to be as versatile as possible.
About how big and heavy is the package of the standard system?

About the size of a smallish shoe box not heavy at all. My understanding of the F&S is that Smaller blades are the issue moreso than larger. I have not used the F&S personally, IF that is of interest drop Clay an email or call him - He is a straight shooter, good guy.

They are the same price, it depends on what you will find more useful in the long run. I made a base and my WEPS sits out in my workshop all the time.
 
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Thanks RubiconSS for referring me to this thread after I posted a question about the WE system yesterday! I found many very useful tips and tricks that answer a lot of the questions I have been pondering while using my new WE sharpening system. The specific question I had though , at least theorectically, was if the edge of a knife is continuing to get sharper and sharper as you go through from the lower grit stones to the leather strops. Thanks to Modifiedz for answering that one question that kept bouncing around in my brain.

So, after seeing the slop in the pivots of the arms of one person on video, I checked mine out and they do have a little bit of play also. Nothing like the ones in the video though. Until I get an Angle Cube I guess there's no way to tell if the play is enough to change the angle on the arms while sharpening. I would be curious to know if putting a couple of nylon washers might eliminate that play to a great extent? Has anyone tried doing that to see if it helps?

I have to say that this thread is one of the most informative I have read on the subject of the WE and sharpening in general anywhere. And I am gratified to see that Clay Allison is so responsive to issues that come up with the WE system. It is a rare characteristic in a lot of companies that sell products these days.

Thanks again to all that provided all of the very useful information here on the subject of sharpening the XM 18. Now if I could just figure out the mystery of sharpening ZDP-189 I would be all set!
 
If you have an iPhone you can use the free level app just like an angle cube.

This is very important because the width of the blade and the one sided vise movement of the WE means that the premarked angles on the rods are not perfectly accurate on the side where the vise moves.
 
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