how to work with silver? HELP PLEASE

Hey Chris I just checked for you and if you were planning on doing any carving or detail work for the tsuba you may want to use purple or green waxes. They're harder and better for that purpose. Rio Grande tends to have the same prices on wax as the wholesale suppliers which is why I suggested them. A 1lb block would be a 11.50.
Grant
 
thanks grant!
that isnt very expensive at all.. i am thinking however, that i will prolly do the tsuba by hammering and then drill and file teh hole, i am still not sure about the habaki... but the tsuba it straight forward in that he just wants a simple oval.

but i am considering doing the habaki as a casting. if i were to carve teh wax.. how soon could you have it cast? and what are your prices? the only thing that i am hesitant about.. is to do mty own work.. if you see what i mean.. nothing against your work (which i am sure is great) but i still have to think about it.
thanks again so much for the offer and research you aready have done.
thanks
~Chris
 
Sorry to horn in on your thread, Chris, but I tried to contact Grant via his profile and there is no contact information listed. This is pertinent to you anyway.

Grant, this knife is being made for me and I am interested in your services. I would like to have some ryu menuki casted out of sterling and then sent to Chris. Depending on how much scrap Chris has left over from the bar, I could send you that or just order some casting grains from the same place I am going to order the sheet. Could you please contact me via email? Thank you.
Jay
 
Sorry about that, I've been meaning to fill out my profile. I'll email you both later when I get home.
Chris its funny, I try to do everything myself as well and my business partner often calls me a jack of all trades and a master of none:) So if you decide to cast it I think I'll make your life a bit easier, 2-3 day turnaround and a clean casting.
Grant
 
Thanks Grant.
i think it may be better to just do the casting on the habaki. the tsuba is easy enough not to be cast (imho)

i will talk to stacy about getting some wax. i think i may be able to find some that will do the job just fine.

where are you located? also.. what would be the best way to ship a wax habaki? i think envelopes are out. *grins*

thanks!
~Chris
 
That sounds good, I think Stacy can probably give you some tips on carving the wax so that it will cast well too.
For packing, for something like a habaki I would fill in the hollow area (where the blade would be) with paper or styrofoam then pack in a box. That will be safe.
Grant
 
I put several grades of carving blocks on my next order. Should be in Tuesday. I'll get some to Chris and loan him some carving tools and burrs.

Chris, when making the habaki wax model, make it a bit on the thick side (about 25-50% overly thick) and a tight fit. On things like this I usually hot fit it. Drill/saw/file a starter hole for the nakago in a block of carvers wax. The hole should be a bit too small for the tang. Evenly/slowly warm up the tang by warming the nakago to about 200-250F ( just enough to make the wax melt a bit). Slip the wax block on the warmed tang, working it back and forth , wiping off the tang frequently with a cloth to remove the melted wax (gently reheat the tang as needed). Once the fit is right, let the wax and the blade cool completely. Trim away any extra melted wax, and gently work the piece off the nakago ( you may have to warm the tang a bit, and/or give the wax a couple taps).Do any shaping and such to the wax block to get the final casting model.
After casting it should be too tight to go on. Clean out the inside with a needle file ( just enough to get it clean and fitting onto the nakago about 2" from the machi), slip it on the nakago, and then slowly tap it from all sides with a planishing hammer until it sets in the machi. STOP once it is there. If you hammer any more, it will get loose. Finish and carve the outside as desired, removing the hammer marks and the extra casting thickness.

When carving the tsuba wax, pierce everything and file/carve the details in. The smoother the final wax the better the casting. Once it is as good as you can get it by filing/carving, wipe/rub it down with a wax solvent, like eucalyptus oil,on a piece of linen ( or an old handkerchief). Repeat with water instead of oil. Dry well and do the final polish by buffing/rubbing with a piece of nylon hose.
Stacy
 
I only have two things to say on the subject.
#1 you can anneal it like copper, heat to a dull red and cool, I like alcohol for this, it seems to soften it more than water.

#2 don't hit it if its hot, sterling silver is hot short, it crumbles when hit if its hot.

Hope this helps

Thanks,
Del
 
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