HT ovens: voltage & other questions

Robert_Phelps

Robert_Phelps

Joined
Nov 29, 2005
Messages
475
I'm in the market for a heat treating oven and had some questions.
Do these ovens use standard sockets, or something beefier? I was thinking about getting an 18" evenheat.
Also, is getting the knife out of the oven and into the quench quick enough an issue? Seems like it'd be hard to get 1095 out and quenched in time, with the door and all. :|

And finally, since I'll be able to handle stainless now (Woohoo!) I was wondering if someone could point me to some good stainless steel information? Pros and cons of the different flavors, and how to heat treat them?
 
220 is more efficient than 110v. No problem with 1095 though you can't waste time.Stainless - they are air hardening and the most convenient way is to HT is in foil and plate quench ! Make sure the furnace wiil get to the high temperatures easily. I think the best choices for steels is ,in order [for maker and user] CPM154, RWL-34, 154CM, ATS-34,VG-10,S30V.
 
EvenHeat furnaces are all 220, I believe. They come with a 20amp plug which looks kinda-sorta like a regular plug with both blades turned sideways. I cut it off and put on a plug to fit my "dryer/range"-style receptacle.

For good HT info on many steels we use, go to www.crucibleservice.com and poke around. Make sure and get the hi-temp SS foil. Mickley sells it by the foot at USA Knifemakers. Type 309 SS Foil

BTW, when you use the foil: BE VERY CAREFUL!! It will slice you to the bone in the blink of an eye. People have suffered some serious injuries from the nasty stuff.
 
Take a peek at the sugarcreek ovens! far cheaper then others and very nice units.i use a smaller 110v (standard plug) model.220 will heat up faster but the little 110 gets there as quick as he can :)
 
balibalistic

Take a peek at the sugarcreek ovens! far cheaper then others and very nice units.i use a smaller 110v (standard plug) model.220 will heat up faster but the little 110 gets there as quick as he can
Click to expand...

How about a link?
 
Ok, I got the foil thing, but how do you plate quench?

Tai: Those things are too expensive, I'm poor. The only reason I'm even able to buy a simple kiln is because I have a grandmother who is very cool, and agrees that knifemaking is cooler than college. (Just kidding, but I finished my college on the cheap, and it's my $ now)

How do you get a socket set up to handle the higher voltage? And are paragon's the same? (I'm thinking I like their doors better)
 
The higher voltage comes from adding both legs of your household feed in the breaker box. If you don't know exactly what you're doing have an electrician do it. The only thing more dangerous than playing with high voltage when you don't know what you're doing is playing with high voltage inside your breaker box when you don't know what you're doing(you MIGHT survive 20 amps 110, you definitely will not survive 200 amps 220)

-Page
 
Blue_Dragon said:
Ok, I got the foil thing, but how do you plate quench?
Click to expand...

Get two thick aluminum plates bigger than your largest blades. What is thick? Many folks recommend 1" or better. I use 3/4" (x 16 x 8) without obvious problems.

Put one plate down on something, take foil wrapped blade(s) out of the kiln and put on plate, put other plate on top, apply pressure until cool enough.

There are lots of different ways of doing this. Some folks use a vise, some use a hydraulic press, some stand on them. I use a cinder block on top.
 
Blue_Dragon said:
Ok, I got the foil thing, but how do you plate quench?

Tai: Those things are too expensive, I'm poor. The only reason I'm even able to buy a simple kiln is because I have a grandmother who is very cool, and agrees that knifemaking is cooler than college. (Just kidding, but I finished my college on the cheap, and it's my $ now)

How do you get a socket set up to handle the higher voltage? And are paragon's the same? (I'm thinking I like their doors better)
Click to expand...

There are some simple low cost ways, to set up a "muffle" and or contained reduction atmosphere inside a low cost electric furnace for oil and water quenching steels.
 
the paragon km 14 uses a standard 110 volt plug. the only differance between 220 and 110 is the amperage draw. an oven rated at x watts will draw y amps at 110 volts. the same xwatt oven will draw only 1/2y amps at 220 volts. there will be no difference in the power bill at the end of the month or in how fast the oven heats up to z temperature. given a choice between paragon and evenheat I would by the paragon after having used both of them I can tell you that the paragon is well worth the extra cost.
 
burke531 said:
the paragon km 14 uses a standard 110 volt plug. the only differance between 220 and 110 is the amperage draw. an oven rated at x watts will draw y amps at 110 volts. the same xwatt oven will draw only 1/2y amps at 220 volts. there will be no difference in the power bill at the end of the month or in how fast the oven heats up to z temperature. given a choice between paragon and evenheat I would by the paragon after having used both of them I can tell you that the paragon is well worth the extra cost.
Click to expand...
If you want an oven that is bigger than 13 or 14 inches, you will be going with 220v.
 
i have a evenheat 18 inch
220 a must
if you think you want a 18 you real need a 22 inch
i badly want a longer thiner kiln now for other blade types. quenching from it is a snap even with the W1 i used the other day
the trick is put oil right in front of kiln on floor
pull out pivot tip down and right into the oil fast and easy
also the plug that is shipped with the 220v kiln is the same as most kitchen stoves lucky me the house had 2 kitchens and i now have a heat treat room
 
I have both an old Paragon (1985) and a newer 22" Evenheat (2002). I bought both new. My comparison, OMMV:

Construction: the Paragon definitely has a beefier case. I like the door hinge much better, especially, because I can close it one handed. My Evenheat door sags and causes a problem with closing completely and latching while holding a hot blade in the tongs. I have to quench then close it completely or have my wife help.

Watttage: the Evenheat ovens have it all over the Paragons in terms of power. The 3200W Evenheat versus the 1200W Paragon. Depsite having a much larger chamber, the Evenheat heats significantly faster.

Max temp: Evenheat 2200F Paragon 2000F (Paragon may be higher on request, check first)

Service: I have recently converted my old analog Paragon to digital with aftermarket equipment. Paragon lost a controller sale. Over the years I have called Paragon several times with some issues. For me, they have always been difficult to get to someone who actually knows stuff. (Not everyone seems to have this issue.) This last time was the last straw. I got some crabby lady at the front desk who didn't know much and absolutely WOULD NOT let me speak to someone who would. She simply said, "Send the controller in off the furnace and we'll check it." I wanted to ask some questions. I didn't get the chance. I bought a digi controller and SSR from Auber and saved $500+.
Versus: I converted my Evenheat from the simpler Setpoint control to the RampmasterII. I spoke with the guy who owns the place to discuss the installation.

So, there are good and bad to both furnaces. My nod goes to the Evenheat despite the door. OMMV. Do your homework carefully and compare all the specs before you choose.
 
fitzo said:
My Evenheat door sags and causes a problem with closing completely and latching while holding a hot blade in the tongs. I have to quench then close it completely or have my wife help.
Click to expand...

Is this something that could be reinforced (or, at least 'fixed' in some other way) by a skilled welder, Mikey?
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Is this something that could be reinforced (or, at least 'fixed' in some other way) by a skilled welder, Mikey?
Click to expand...

It most likely wouldn't even need a welder, Matt. I've just been lazy about thinking up a new hinge support. It's always been, "Nanc, you got a moment?" Water following the easiest path. :o:o
 
I use a paragon oven and use the foil wrap method. I oil quench my 440C knives. Getting them out of the foil packet and into the oil requires a bit of technique. With leather gloves on and eye protection I reach in with pliers. Quickly pluck a packet, and in one motion snip open the packet with metal cutting sissors. Then grab another pliers and grab onto the knife and plunge into oil point first and gently stir until cooled. In all only 5-10 seconds from oven to oil.

Be quick, and when your doing it right the entire blade including the tip will be orange hot when its being submerged in the oil quench. I use olive oil.

Temper twice at 300F, gives me a final reading of 58-59 RC
 
You can create a contained reduction atmosphere simply by putting some charcoal or wood chunks inside the chamber. What's even better is using a "muffle", a ceramic or metal tube inside the chamber and put some charcoal or wood chips inside. You can plug the back and put a simple loose fitting plug, as simple as a rolled piece of ceramic thermal blanket, in the front and pull it out when you are ready to quench the blade. It's a lot faster and easier than using the foil envelope.
 
Tai goo. Your atmosphere reduction technique sounds interesting. I am wondering how much if any scale is there on your knives? This sounds cheaper than running nitrogen in there to rid the oxygen.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top