Hunting Knife Design Preferences

[Mack]

We all have our opinions on what a hunting knife should look like. A knife for hunting Deer, Elk, Moose etc.
I'm wondering why we like what we do.
I'm not talking about a knife for killing, I'm asking about a knife or knives for taking care of what we've killed.
What blade shape do you prefer for skinning? Drop point? Trailing edge? Other? Why do you prefer it?
What do you prefer for butchering the meat? Do you use a different blade for this or do you use your skinning knife?
Why do you prefer it?
What do you not want in a hunting blade? Guard, yes or no? Full tang, stick tang?
What handle shape do you like? I see a lot of them with round or oval handles, do they help or hurt?
I'm interested in seeing the opinions here. Hopefully in the next year or so I will be getting back into the hunting game and also hope to have a custom knife or two built.

If you were designing your perfect hunting blade, what would it look like?

 

[RWT]

You already have it in the JK Gallywag. I have spent a ton of time on this subject. I will see if I can find my old threads. I did end up have Big Chris make me a custom caper that I am waiting to review. Something I want to clean has to step in front of my arrow first.

 

[Hammer67]

If you were designing your perfect hunting blade, what would it look like?

It would look a lot like this:

Although I do like Loveless-style drop points as well. Both have their place, and for big game, I usually carry both.

**Edit to answer a few more of your questions:

For skinning, I really like a trailing point. Why? Well, it's what trailing points were largely developed to do - provide a sharp, bellied edge while getting the tip out of the way, and thereby reducing the chance of an accidental puncture.

For actual butchering, I really like the BHK MUK pictured below for dealing with the bigger pieces. Why? The Muk is just a butchering machine. A nice deep profile, again combined with substantial belly, allows for a very 'slicey' blade. And while its on the big side of my usual preference for a game knife (9" overall), it still works really well for smaller cuts and detail as well. I find that it's also great for what I call a "rocking cut" in which the blade can be rocked back and forth over a surface like a cutting board as the meat is passed under it.

For larger game, I tend to like a handle that really fills my hand for a secure grip. Both of the knives pictured above do that. But more than that - the similar handle shape of both knives really fills my hand toward the butt end of the knife, but both are also narrow enough toward the front of the handle to allow me to easily "choke up" on it, and even pinch grip when necessary.

 

[troutfisher13111]

I prefer a narrow drop point with a near straight spine.

By straight spine I mean the whole top of the knife from end of handle to just before the tip drops should be almost perfectly straight. I don't like anything with curvy features. I find this gives me more control with the point, it's like an extension of my finger.

For grinds I like either a full flat or hollow. Both cut meat well. I also prefer a slightly thinner blade for its cutting ability. Blade length for me should be around 3.5 inches.

I like a handle that feels good in my hands, there are many ways to do this. I do prefer a small guard that offers my thumb a comfortable place to sit while making reverse cuts.

For steel, I feel like almost anything will do. As long as it's a quality steel, the rest is preference. I like a stainless that has a good mix of edge holding and ease of sharpening. No super steels for me.

I like micarta or G10 for my handles. Both are easy to clean and are not affected by blood. Tang really doesn't affect much, but full is my favorite.

This is the knife I would use for field dressing, skinning, and to quarter. For boning I use a boning knife. The long, thin, and flexible blade makes it easy to get meat off the bone and sliced into the desired cut.

Here is a knife from Big Chris that has all the features I prefer

Here is another favorite that doesn't meet the straight spine criteria, but I love the blade shape and removable handle slabs.

BHK Lg. Workhorse

 

[Zidfeldts]

I really like the "sharp finger" style of knife for most hunting applications.

 

[Mack]

Interesting answers. I'm going to be giving my next purchase a lot of thought. I sure appreciate the input.

 

[Codger_64]

Gee, I just don't know...

 

[mewolf1]

Deer are the biggest game I go after. That being said, I carry, and use an Opinel#8. The blade is thin, easy to sharpen, holds the edge reasonably well, and if lost it's a "pisser", but not the end of the world.
I don't use a knife much when I skin, but pull the hide off. When needed though, the Opinel is my blade to nip through the tough stuff. I like it also for it's shortness; As you know, the closer to the work, the more control.
If I were to carry a fixed blade, (dare I say, 'if I could only have one....') 4"L x 1/8" thick, slight drop point, balanced, carbon.
A knife like this can do anything I personally could ever want out of a knife, from building a canoe, too processing game, and everything in between.

 

[Mack]

Gee, I just don't know...

OK, but why?
I understand the Sharpfinger perfectly. There may not be a better knife for fine work. The 165 I'm not as sure about. Why do you prefer that shape to a drop point, Nessmuk or other blade shape?

 

[W.M.B.]

I think the sharp finger and the buck 110 are about all you could need.I also like gut hoks, as a separate item. a gut hook hs limited use, but for all of the cuts opening the skin (except the firs small clice to get the hook in) it is the fastest hay to go. the 110 and sharp finger are great as far as i can see for about the same reasons. They are readily available for cheap, hold an edge great, stiff and sturdy, ponty enough when you want that, curved enough when you want that. sharpen pretty easy. I think design wise, i like the idea of the sharpfinger better for ease of clean, but in reality its not that hard to clean the 110. and one more thing, the handle must fit your hand well for minimum fatigue. i like the idea of those skeletonized one piece of steel for the whole knife jobbies for light weight and ease of clean, but when your hand gets tired, you age more likely to slip and cut yourself or drop and damage (and dirty) your knife.

 

[Codger_64]

OK, but why?
I understand the Sharpfinger perfectly. There may not be a better knife for fine work. The 165 I'm not as sure about. Why do you prefer that shape to a drop point, Nessmuk or other blade shape?

I like the finer tip for piercing and fine work. The 165 tip is fine without being weak. I can work it into hip sockets without worry of breaking it. And the upswept tip of the trailing point is out of the way when I don't need it, such as when I am using the belly of the blade for skinning and slicing. Yes the shorter Sharpfinger design will cut through thicker pieces like a neck or ham, but with more strokes and usually not so neat of a cut. Plus, though not a usual chore, the 165 knife can be tied to a pole for use as a spear or a twist on critters out of reach. I've only had to do this twice in many years, but there it is. A blunt blade is not well suited for piercing, either as a thrusting tool like a spear, or as a fine working tool. A tough hide and hair prevent it from piercing.

 

[Mack]

Thanks again. This gives me a lot to consider.

 

[Mack]

I have a Sharpfinger and several trailing points and soon I will have a new drop point to try out. The testing will be interesting I think.
I really wish I hadn't let a friend use my old Gerber. They don't make these anymore and it was a great blade. I never saw it after he used it to skin a hog.

 

[sams]

A drop point works best when field dressing deer / elk, i.e. "gutting". That is what prompted the gut hook. I bought a Remington folder with a gut hook but haven't used it enough to develop the "knack".

The trailing point shines when you hang the animal and pull the skin / hide off. either is fine quarting game. It is nice to have few and see what works best for you. I spent way too much $ on blades but it is fun, better than golfing I think.

 

[sams]

sorry double post

 

[RWT]

PT - you are in the same boat as I am. I have gone through a ton of blades to find one that is just right. Kinda like Goldielocks..... Good thing is the journey is enjoyable.
.
reserved for pics





Now for the past year I have used a CABS, rodent solution a few others and a KOA caper. I find I use the caper more than anything when cleaning animals so I am having Big Chris make me one with a larger handle. The caper has been used for 10+ years now and I figured since I keep going back to it why not have a custom made that fits me better. I still need a longer blade for backstrap and as a beater or primary belt knife. Lately I have used my CABS as the 4" blade for running around the joints and up against bone. The caper does 90% of the field dressing and the 4-5" I can use for everything else and not worry about the tip breaking. This includes any camp chores or bushcrafty stuff which I really never need. I've estimate I have cleaned 500+ animals in 25 years and used everything from a 6" filet knife to a leatherman. The closest thing I have found to the right size is a Rodent Solution or a CABS, but both need to be moded. The RS blade is way to thick and has to be stripped of the coating, but it holds a decent edge and is just about the perfect size over all. The CABS I need a slimmer blade and bigger handle(slabs). I am going custom as the cost is to close to what a modification on a production model would be. For instance a RS is $125 new. I then have to have the blade stripped, thinned out and I might as well have the slabs replaced to the thickness I like and add pins so it is easier to clean(blood in the rivet holes sucks). Just my 2 cents. I am also sold my CABS as I do not want that much tied up in a knife and I am still not 100% happy with it on edge retention.



List of blades I have used to clean animals- at least what I can remember and why I am no longer using them
6" filet knife- flexed to much and too long
Mora clipper- great handle - blade length is good - scandi grind left odd cuts in the backstraps
CABS- close to perfect but I had to have mine mod'd- to much invested to risk losing it so it is sold
RS- like it and still have it but sold it for a custom caper due to wanting to mod it to much
Kabar 6 1/2 blade given to me by my dad- used it as a kid since I did not know any better and thought I was a bad ass at 13 having huge fixed blade on my hip
Schrade Sharpfinger(two of these)- love the blade shape- a little short for good size deer on the backstrap- derlin handle blows when wet and is to small for my hands- still I went through two of them as I sharpened the first to a nub
Schrade with gut hook- derlin handles blow when wet and I started hating gut hooks with this one
Schrade safety with gut hook- learned to hate gut hooks as I could not sharpen them and the blade is too long and wide
Case Blade trader -love it-still have it - used multiple blades every time- hate cleaning it
CRKT drifter- forgot all my knives- this is my EDC
Original Leatherman- seriously I was in a pinch and only had this in my pack
6"boning knife I found in the kitchen- great handle - too long of a blade and flexed
KOA caper- still in use today
KOS Alaskan- loved the size but D2 hates me when sharpening so I sold it
Buck 110 knock off - still have it but sucks to clean it
Case stockman- broke the tip and hated cleaning it
Gerber unknown free blade - EDC and never held an edge longer than 15 minutes
BK16- have yet to use it so I sold it
Spyderco Southfork- have yet to use it n animals
GSO 4.0 Elmax- did not like the handle or blade width/height
Scrapmax 340- great skinner but to short of a blade and very flexible - still have it
War Dog- had a choil and the blade was to thick

If I had only one it would be :
Stainless in CPM 154 or Elmax due to ease of sharpening and less maintenance - I am lazy and prefer to drink beer than clean up
4.5-4.75" handle that is thick - arthritic hands
3.75-4.25" blade that tapers to very skinny at the tip and maximum 1" wide near handle- over 4.50" is to much deer IMO
No ricasso at all
No choil unless it is a caper
Full Flat Grind
5/32 or 1/8" thick steel
toss up between drop point and upswept tip like the sharpfinger- I clean more animals than process wood so upswept tip it is.
solid pins and g10 on handle
tapered tang to reduce weight
moonglow liner so I can find it when I set it down- lost the Kabar that way
no lanyard hole- I don't need to chop- I can push cut/whittle any up to wrist size and that is all I will ever need to cut down to build a shelter or a fire- If bigger is required the BK9 or machete goes with me.

I have a new rodent trail that is waiting for a workout. It meets most of my criteria for a non custom.
.

 

[Cwilliamson]

I have used a variety of knives on antelope, mule deer, and the single elk I have managed to harvest in the last 12 years. Up until this year I hunted with a former butcher and as we have field dressed various critters we have discussed blade geometry and what would work best in a hunting knife for field dressing (gutless and normal).

I have never acquired a taste for gut hooks though I own a couple knives with them. Over the years I seem to prefer to go with a two knife combination. One pointy such as a sharpfinger or caper with a 3-3.5" blade for fine/detailed work and the other a drop point with a 4-5" blade depending on the size of the animal for skinning and cutting through muscle.

In general I prefer a flat grind and a thinner blade. I tried to use my BK-2 to field dress a mule deer a couple years ago and the .25" thick blade made it awkward. In a similar vein my Buck Vanguard did most everything fine but I would have liked it to have a 5" blade for removing the backstrap.

I think that to go with a single knife it would need to be something along the lines of a BK-15. A sharp point for poking and decent belly for skinning and cutting through the meat. I think the Kabar JAB Baconmaker would be a contender if it had a 5-6" blade and was a little thinner.

This weekend I'll be headed off to elk camp. I recently picked up a Keith Willis sharpfinger and I will be using it in combination with my Buck Vanguard. I would have liked to have tried a BK-15 but couldn't afford it and the sharpfinger. Maybe next year. Hopefully I'll fill my tag and get to test the sharpfinger out and refine my opinion further.

Clark

 

[Zidfeldts]

All through my youth I used trailing points for hunting. I still haven't completely warmed up to drop points. I like drop points for utility knives more than for hunting knives.

 

[Mack]

PT - you are in the same boat as I am. I have gone through a ton of blades to find one that is just right. Kinda like Goldielocks..... Good thing is the journey is enjoyable.
.

:thumbup:

This weekend I'll be headed off to elk camp. I recently picked up a Keith Willis sharpfinger and I will be using it in combination with my Buck Vanguard. I would have liked to have tried a BK-15 but couldn't afford it and the sharpfinger. Maybe next year. Hopefully I'll fill my tag and get to test the sharpfinger out and refine my opinion further.

Clark

Lots of good info here from both of you.
Clark, I am really interested to hear your opinions on the Keith Willis Sharpfinger. I have been watching those and have guided a few people to them. Keith seems like a great guy and his take on the sharpfinger looks to be a really nice knife.

 

[Cwilliamson]

Will post a update after the hunt. The fit and finish of the Sharpfinger seems good for the price point, the 1095 takes a edge easily. I hope to find out how it holds up dealing with elk hide and muscle.

Clark