Hydraulic press build question (pics added)

MarkJeffrey

MarkJeffrey

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Nov 7, 2013
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I've read through any of the press build threads I have found, which I believe has left me with brain overload. :confused:

I see there was a parts list being emailed around but that looked like a long time ago. I picked up a hefty I-Beam today and plate and what not, the fabrication part (I think) I can handle, what I don't know however is the best set up to use. What pump, cylinder, motor etc.. to give me the best working press in the 25 tonne range with 2"/sec give or take? I'd rather only have to buy the stuff once.

Any recommendations, or what do you run?

Thanks !
 
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I've seen everything from 3HP to 7.5HP motors used

This was in one of the build threads but I believe it only ran at 1"/sec
Motor – 7.5 HP
Pump – Single stage 5.2 GPM
Cylinder – 5” X 8” Stroke

I also read up on Jim Batson's press for his book because I was going to order it, but this also runs at 1"/sec? It seems everything else I've read says to shoot for 2"/second
 
I have a press from Al Lawrence at Riverside Machine. I would say it is closer to 1" per second and I find that very controllable. His press design also includes a clever little stop that will prevent the ram from returning to the full open position when you let off on the treadle. That stop helps to overcome the initial wait time when bringing the die down. I've used faster presses and they can be tricky; you can get a skew very quickly. I would also recommend that you build a press with a stationary lower die.

Bob
 
I don't post very often but I keep seeing questions on hydraulic presses. I built mine just around $700 I had some of the materials . here is a web site I found on yahoo search. search -Details on building a hydraulic forging press. there should be a web site with the name primalfires.yuku .com click on it there is a full tutorial on a press build .
 
Thanks gny, I will check that out for sure

I've searched the web quite a bit as well and have a lot of info and pictures saved, but I guess my thing is every build seems to be pretty different, so I was hoping to hear first hand what works best for people here actually using them
 
Well, here's what I have gathered up so far. 7.5hp @3450rpm motor, 16gpm/4gpm 2 stage pump, and a 6"x 10" cylinder

 
I think that will rock. I just got mine going, I used a 5 hp 3450rpm motor with a 13/4 gpm pump. 5" bore cylinder. It's a beast. You have more hp, more gpm, but your cylinder is 6" bore. I think it will be great, have more power then mine. The little I have used mine, I haven't need more muscle, but it's not a bad thing.
 
Assuming your rod diameter is 2", your push force at 2500 psi would be about 35 tons. Extension speed at 16 gpm would be 2.2 ips, retract at 2.5 ips. Ram speed at your hi pressure stage would be .5 ips push, .6 ips retract.

To get a desired flow rate of 4 gpm at 2500 psi, you need 6.5 hp. To get 16 gpm at 500 psi, you need 5.2 hp. So, it looks like all your calcs are in line to run your press with that pump, up to 35 tons @ 2500 psi, with 2.2 ips extend speed of ram. Should be nice. You could get even a little more if you upped your pressure relief setting, but that decreases safety and I don't recommend it.

Now you need your tank with strainer and breather cap, pressure gauge, and a 16 gpm+ filter for your return line, plus all the high pressure hoses.
I've found a great place for hoses to be Surplus Center, quite cheap comparably and good product.
In a pinch a tractor supply place will provide those fittings or hoses that you may need at a moment's notice, actually Big R/North 40 has a lot of stuff if they are in your area.

A quick note, using tape is a no-no. It can get into your pump and destroy it. People have done it for years, but that don't make it right. Use pipe dope. Not the teflon stuff that supposedly will do up to 3000 psi, but the anaerobic hardening hi-temp stuff made by Permatex et al. It's way better, I have had fittings just refuse to seal until I used that stuff, and then no problems at all.
 
If you build and find that ram speed is too fast, you can add a flow restriction and slow it down.

You can't go the other way though.
 
Thanks guys, hoping to start cutting plate here soon!

We're planning on possibly building the tank into the stand.. but the more I think about it the more I think we should just build a stand that the tank will fit into haha

Thanks for the info fellas much appreciated
 
Silly question. Are the tanks pressurized? I have a 100lbs propane tank that has a blown valve. It would make a great oil tank.
 
Willie71 said:
Silly question. Are the tanks pressurized? I have a 100lbs propane tank that has a blown valve. It would make a great oil tank.
Click to expand...

No. They're generally vented and only see return flow.
 
For the press being built in this thread, a tank of only 15-20 gallons would be necessary. A rough guideline is to have a tank capacity of as many gallons as your pump will push in a minute, however this can be and is often fudged a bit for splitters and presses.

A 100 lb propane tank could thus be a little bit large, but of course it need not be entirely full. And then, the only thing using a large reservoir really will hurt is your wallet when you fill it.
 
This is a quick mock up sketch of what the build may look like, obviously subject to change, probably a lot. sorry no CAD.. I'm a pencil kind of guy :)

 
I reckon 15 gallons or even a little less would be fine for your reservoir. You don't impart a whole lot of heat to the fluid, as much of the time you are only running at 4 gpm, and when running at 16 gpm your pressure is low. Also, your machine gets plenty of down time, even during extended forge sessions, as your heats are relatively short.

I like your drawing. Beats a computer sketch for style. The way you have your structure sketched looks plenty strong. I don't know what the web thickness is on your beam, but if you detect any curvature occurring in it under forging pressures, you can cut some extra 3/8" plates to fit into each side as gussets, in effect making a triple web I-beam out of it. I ended up doing that with mine, which made it a lot stiffer. The web on my I-beam was 1/2".

I think you can get away with just one stout bolt at each corner, on your mount to the stand (although 8 looks cool, you'll already be sick of drilling holes after making the slide).
 
Thanks Salem, the beam has 5/8" face wall with a 1/2" inside web, and 8wX12d

A friend of mine helping with the build suggested almost a fin along the backside for added strength, he sent me a picture I'd have to find it. I like the sound of what you described though because it wont stick out the back
 
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