I don't know how to sharpen knives

T. Erdelyi said:
I did think of one other thing, my buddy bought a powered sharpener like the Ken Onion Work Sharp and I warned him that it’s not impossible to screw up an edge on a manual sharpening system but it happens so much quicker on a powered system. Usually it’s too late by the time you realize you’ve messed up the edge on something like a KOWS it’s irreparable. Where as manually you usually have plenty of time to catch it and steel left to correct it.
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I think I'm just going to use the Work Sharp to sharpen kitchen knives and scissors and such. I don't plan on using it on hopefully a decent knife that I'll get soon
 
I have no much skill on sharpening, but I have sharped my 940 in 20CV to scare sharp using lansky diamond and ultra fine hone.
Just remember the critical point on the menu enclosed inside the package.

Dont use powered tool on your decent knives, it hurt your blade too much unless you are well skilled.
 
Basic Sharpmaker will handle most steels. If you need something more aggressive Congress Tools has a good variety of options
that will fit the Sharpmaker base.
 
Does the sharpmaker have all that I need to sharpen s30v Steel? I just bought a paramilitary 2 s30v off of The Exchange and according to the cell I will probably have to sharpen it
 
Just answering to your original question : learn to sharpen, slowly , step by step.
Start with a guided system (like the Lansky). Be patient : factory edges are often uneven... (For D2, by all means, use the Lansky diamond stones). If you are "reprofiling" (re-aligning the edges) instead of just "sharpening", extra patience and care is required. If you are only sharpening, check out the edge : what is the angle ? A quick brush with a Sharpie before sharpening can be enlightening : you'll see if you really hit the edge, or above, or beyond. Start with a (very) cheap knife and refine your technique (a magnifying glass is nice to check out your work). Have fun !
 
Well, got my pm2 in yesterday that was very functional but still needed an edge.
Got my sharpmaker in today and after about 10 minutes (including ripping open the package, setting up, and tearing back down) I got an arm hair shaving edge.
All I can say is wow
 
There was a time when I couldn't sharpen a knife to save my life, then I bought the DMT aligner kit. Guided systems such as this are excellent because it will keep a consistent angle, and eventually will give you the muscle memory needed tit ditch the guide and begin to freehand. Its like training wheels for knife sharpening, and in my experience quite effective.

Most of all though you just need a lot of practice and patience. Sharpen every day, even if it isn't necessary.
 
Not having as much luck on my benchmade d2, but it's been years since it was sharp and had gotten to butter knife status
 
Lansky system is good, but you really have to practice using it (and keep the stone guides straight!). I’d recommend the sharpmaker, simple, workable edge.
 
D2 is hard to sharpen. Patience. Sharpen to a fine level and then see if you can get it any better if you want to. D2 sort of ends up sort of a toothy sharpness due to the size of the carbides.
 
Do your D2 Benchmade a little at a time and you will eventually hit the apex.

The reason I say do it this way is to keep from getting sloppy and frustrated.
When I first got my Sharpmaker I tried to sharpen a dull D2 Adamas and I ended up getting 6" DMT stone for that job.

Also get some Barkeepers Friend powder and that will keep the rods just like new.
Clean Sharpmaker rods cut way faster.

Good luck!
 
I just use Arkansas stones. First, get some honing oil on the stone, lay the knife down horizontally on it and angle it up just until the tip of the V touches the stone. Hold that angle and make a slicing motion until you can feel a little bit of bent metal along the length of the blade that's called a "wire". Then do the other side to even up your grind. Do both sides until you're satisfied. As for steel, 154cm, S30v, whatever steel Ka-bar uses to make their knives(I don't remember off of the top of my head, sue me). CPM-M4 is a bit more difficult, though. I hope that helps
 
At the least I would suggest going with the Lansky kit which is how I got started sharpening. About 12 years ago I got my Edge Pro (Pro kit with scissor sharpening option) and later a Spyderco Sharpmaker. For quick and dirty sharpening I go with the Sharpmaker. For better detail sharpening, I will set up my Edge Pro. Good luck and be safe.
 
You mention you have a work sharp.
If you want to progress to hand sharpening, IF you have had good luck using the work sharp I would suggest using it.
But I would also pick up something like a DMT "red" (fine) stone and follow the bevels your work sharp is already putting on the knife.
I have a work sharp Ken Onion with the blade grinding attachment, and use it regularly.
I find that it quickly puts a VERY usable and respectable edge on ANY knife I USE.
 
Ok a few things: You mentioned a work sharp; I'd keep it away from the "nicer" knives. I have one and I hate it because if you mess up a bit it can really do some damage and I don't really see the advantage in using it.
The Sharpmaker that has been mentioned certainly is great but imo only for maintenance. For resetting a bevel etc. it's rather slow. Also once you really get the hang of sharpening you may want to choose angles yourself and with the angled stones that requires a bit more thinking :D you can lay the stones flat in the base and still use it but the wiggle and it's not great.
There are inexpensive guided systems that allow you to put on really precise mirror edges for about 30€. Basically an edge pro in cheap.
If you want to go freehand I'd advise to get a really nice high grit stone (I started with a 10k Naniwa). With that you can practice the techniques and motions of sharpening on knives you have by polishing the already set bevels and can't really do damage. Once the knives need a resetting on the bevel you're skills probably are at a point where you can do it freehand. You then can either get lower grit stones or go budget and just tape sand-paper to the high grit stone.

If you want to invest in an expensive system(which I'd strongly would advise against) the WE imo is the best system out there.
 
willc said:
Do your D2 Benchmade a little at a time and you will eventually hit the apex.

The reason I say do it this way is to keep from getting sloppy and frustrated.
When I first got my Sharpmaker I tried to sharpen a dull D2 Adamas and I ended up getting 6" DMT stone for that job.

Also get some Barkeepers Friend powder and that will keep the rods just like new.
Clean Sharpmaker rods cut way faster.

Good luck!
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Clean rods make a huge difference. When mine got clogged the first time it was too long till I figured out that it was the rods, not me. Nothing worse than not being able.to figure out what's wrong when learnin how to sharpen. Clogged rods will NEVER deburr a blade. Ok, getting PTSD.
 
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We don't have church until this afternoon so I'm working on the benchmade d2 for a bit, do some pushups, work on blade more, do some pullups, work on blade a bit, push ups, blade, pullups . . .
 
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