I drank the koolaid pt2

Charlie Mike

Sober since 1-7-14 (still a Paranoid Nutjob)
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 1, 2000
Messages
28,365
In my search for the perfect fixed blade... I ordered this...

94eb1aee0a53c8d29bfa01e3c0419a75.jpg


The only mod I can see myself doing is possibly a resin soak in the cord wrap handle. If you have any suggestions on what to use to harden the 550 without having to do the handle wrap over again, let me know.
 
Crazy glue hardens para cord pretty quick and its clear., I've never tried it on cord wrap, I've made para cord rings and bracelets that way. Wouldn't cost much to experiment. They used to do the old pool cues with nylon thread and crazy glue.
 
I used 2 part marine epoxy in a knife making class. Just blow dry it to make it soak in. It's wicked durable. The hardest part was keeping it off of the tang. It darkens the cord but looks good and you would have to grind it off.
 
Hey Matt ,Mike Snody has a couple youtube videos putting epoxy on his wraps, may be worth checking out. What's the length and thickness that model?

I had a DB few years ago instead of it being .25 of s30v it was .19 of 3v. Thing was a tank.
 
Cool, my Dad has a wb mod10, and man, that thing is a beast.
I've yet to see a tanto tip quite like that one.
 
Hey Matt ,Mike Snody has a couple youtube videos putting epoxy on his wraps, may be worth checking out. What's the length and thickness that model?

I had a DB few years ago instead of it being .25 of s30v it was .19 of 3v. Thing was a tank.

Overall Length 10.00"
Blade Length 5.75"
Sharpened Length 5.50"
Blade Thickness 0.187"
Blade Material CPM-S30V Powder Steel
Steel Type Stainless
Handle Material Black Paracord Wrap
Weight 7.50 oz.
Sheath Kydex with Standard PUP Modular Belt MOLLE Unit
Sheath Weight 3.55 oz.
Country of Manufacture United States
 
Out of curiosity, since you make knives why not make yourself something similar? After getting into making knives I sold off all of my fixed blades except the artistic knives made by a friend.
 
Out of curiosity, since you make knives why not make yourself something similar? After getting into making knives I sold off all of my fixed blades except the artistic knives made by a friend.

I've done that before but I'm a knife addict... Addiction has no reason.
 
Man that's nice!!!!,,, I would be afraid of super glue turning white??? Also gets real hot setting up in cloth stuff,, I use it to strengthen wing joints on fiberglass on RC planes! Test 1st !!!
 
I've done that before but I'm a knife addict... Addiction has no reason.

I know what you mean. I've been through many stages of knife addiction. Lately I've been anticipating the release of a couple Spyderco models.
 
CM, you can use G flex epoxy, mix 50/50 like normal and thin it out with acetone. Dip a toothbrush in the thinned epoxy and work it in the 550. The thicker you leave the epoxy the more "shine"you will get...thinner you get more of a flat or matte finish.
 
I would think that you might want to rewrap it before epoxying or staining the handle, it could probably be a littl more comfortable. I like that blade shape a lot, though.

p.s. Have used minwax soaked 550 before, works well to stiffen up the wrap but is less permanent than epoxy. I got the idea from someone on BF years ago, can't remember the maker at the moment.
 
I been reading up on this... Spray polyurethane.
 
This may not be as good as the other suggested epoxies or whatnot, but ive done it with Wood sealant before, and it worked very well. Just dip it a few times, and when i did it it didn't really stick to the steel, just the cord. Makes it stiff, and grippy, but it may not be what youre looking for.
 
CM, I've got a line on a product that I get from an archery supplier for filling cracks in fiberglass bow backings that u use to permanently harden 550 cord wraps. PM or email me and I'll be glad to give you the scoop. Comes in two consistencies, thick and thin, and I use the thin to effectively saturate the fibers.
 
I've done that before but I'm a knife addict... Addiction has no reason.

I'm sure you'll do it again, the knife looks more down and dirty compared to that beautiful Brend/Branton you have. I've sold guns before to buy knives so yes I've got it bad too CM.
 
In my search for the perfect fixed blade... I ordered this...

94eb1aee0a53c8d29bfa01e3c0419a75.jpg


The only mod I can see myself doing is possibly a resin soak in the cord wrap handle. If you have any suggestions on what to use to harden the 550 without having to do the handle wrap over again, let me know.
West systems works really well. The slow hardener is better.
 
I've done that before but I'm a knife addict... Addiction has no reason.

So true. :)

Man that's nice!!!!,,, I would be afraid of super glue turning white??? Also gets real hot setting up in cloth stuff,, I use it to strengthen wing joints on fiberglass on RC planes! Test 1st !!!

I never used it on large soaking fibers more for holding a shape, I never thought about it turning white. Polyurethane sounds like a possibility. Matt are you looking to keep the texture and tactility of the current wrap? The epoxies tend to be thick and give a smoother finish as it lays on top and fills in the voids where something thinner like the Professor suggests will retain the feel of the cord because it gets absorbed vs just laying on top and hardening.

CM, I've got a line on a product that I get from an archery supplier for filling cracks in fiberglass bow backings that u use to permanently harden 550 cord wraps. PM or email me and I'll be glad to give you the scoop. Comes in two consistencies, thick and thin, and I use the thin to effectively saturate the fibers.

I'd be curios what you use too, could you send me info too please?
 
Stick Fast Thin Cyanoacrylate Adhesive 4-1/2 Ounce Bottle (CA Glue).

This is the closest I could find to a thin liquid adhesive called Quick-It that was sold by my archery supplier for fletching and fiberglass repair. The stuff above is the same thin consistency, though I'd experiment with some scrap cordage. Also, when applying to and saturating the project, make sure you're outside. The fumes will make your nose hairs stiff for about a week, so I don't think you want it in your lungs. Allow it to cure 24 hours outside or in your garage.
 
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