I friggin QUIT!!

panch0

panch0

Joined
Jun 16, 2008
Messages
3,415
For today at least.. I was trying to flare a thong tube and it split the wood on both sides. :mad:Argghh.. I spent like 30 minutes sawing tha dang cocobolo block in half. Now I got to cut another one. My band saw crapped out and I got a wood saw only and no extra cash to get one either.:grumpy: Now I got glue all over my hands two broken sccales and ate a piece of humble pie. Mr Murphy rides again.

Well that felt better I will get back on it tomorrow.:cool:

I was using a c clamp and the heads of two screws like I seen on here before. I guess maybe the couter sink might have been too shallow. Next time I won't be so stupid as to not try a practice run before I ruin a nice piece of wood. Down here we call guys that don't think before they do something a special word. It starts with these four letters pend@%):D I guess it was me today. Everything was going so good and deteriorated pretty quick. Well thats enough about that....
 
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It's OK to say pendejo here, isn't it?? (spell check don't think so)

They have to come up with a lanyard tube that works like a Corby......hey, I think we have something here!!
 
Ya better patent that idea!
Here are some pics of the carnage..

wip087-1.jpg
 
Hey Pancho, why do all of you guys always blame me when bad stuff happens? I'm nowhere near South Texas anymore, it couldn't be my fault.

Murph
 
An effective way I found to flare a thong hole is to use and old counter sink. After the hole has been prepared and the tube has been checked for size and fit, glue it in and run the countersink backwards and press it into the hole. This will spin the flare rather than press it. You may need to make a backup piece to prevent pressing out the tube but this works great for me. Just a thought
 
Don't give up until after you make the knife for the THF knife in the hat :)
Got mine ground out tonight and hand sanded ready to send off for HT.
 
I have never flared a thong tube if you glue it why would you need to flare the tube. kellyw
 
I feel for you. I split one of my osage orange scales today during glue-up. Nice looking cocobolo you have there though.
 
When something goes wrong like that and I have a tanty in the garage over it............always within a few minutes Im back into it, promising my "baby" will have an extra smooth polished surface to make up for it :D :cool:
 
Pancho - try one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93342

They have them all the time at HF around here, many times on sale for .99 cents. They are NOT good for woodwork, and seem to be at the wrong angle for most screws. But for smoothing off burrs in metal, they are excellent. They aren't very sharp, so you don't get ahead of yourself when smoothing metal and take out too much or bite too deep. And since they are carbide, they seem to last forever.

Just a thought.

Robert
 
Ponco
Lube the screw heads with a little oil or grease,this will make them flare better and not squash and split your scales also make sure your countersink is deep enough in the scale.
Stan
 
You don't need clamps, screw heads, vises, etc.
Just get a tapered punch, countersink your holes slightly, cut the tubing 1/8" or less on each side, and tap the punch with a small hammer until one side flares. Then do the other side. File off excess.
 
Bill has it. It is not necessary to flare the end much at all. The glue will do most of the work, and the flare is mostly round the edge and cut down on lanyard wear. Also, make the hole a little loose on the tube. Too tight and it will split the scale. Countersink the lip about 1/16" deep and lightly flare the tube. Remember, you aren't making a plumbing fitting, just making a tube with a flared lip. You can make a flaring punch from a piece of round stock and do it by hand easily. Just grind the end into a round nosed punch, polish it, and tap gently with a light hammer. The advantage of flaring by hand with a punch as opposed to with some sort of flaring press, is that you can see the progress, touch up areas that need additional flaring, and quit when it is done.
The other tricks suggested work,too.
Stacy
 
Pancho
Sorry about the carnage. I just hope your two boys weren't close enough to hear all of those Spanish cuss words.
 
I too, use a punch, to LIGHTLY flare it. Doesn't take much. You should only be able to see a hint of flare, any more and that's bad.
I then follow up with countersink bit to chamfer the inside edge of the tube so it does not wear on the thong.
Dan
 
FWIW, I don't flare tubes or peen pins (in fixed blades). With any decent epoxy and a little roughing of the outside, there is no way they should come loose. I'd be worried about the wood moving a little and a crack forming when the customer has the knife.

Sorry if it's off topic. I guess this is really a thread about cheerfulness in the face of adversity. :)

Rob!
 
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