I have $200 what should I buy that will fit my needs?

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Mar 11, 2013
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I'm looking for a good general fixed blade for survival/bushcraft/camp with the following specs:

4.5"-6" blade
Full Tang
Less than 14oz weight
Around .18-.22 blade thickness
Super steel like CPM 3v, CPM 4v, K390...
Great cutter that will slice and make good feather sticks but also is very durable if in a survival situation.

I was considering the Bravo 1 or Aurora but seeing some mixed reviews on bark river and their tangs are very skeletonized which sort of worries me. Are there any other high quality knives that fit my budget and criteria?
 
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A little above your budget but a Bradford Guardian 4.5, 5 or 6 could fit and it's often the go to suggestion in that price range.
 
Take a look at the knife makers for sale forum here, there’s lots of great stuff! I really like the Kornalski knives. Also consider the many options from lionsteel and fallkniven that come in around your budget.
 
not much of a fan of supersteels for Bushcraft type stuff, it's simply too hard to resharpen in the field.... and bushcraft is too demanding on the edge, so you will want to resharpen it in the field if you ever do more than a single day hike and spend more than a few hours at a time in the woods.....

that being said, if you are dead set on the misery a super steel will bring you in the bush, Lionsteel M4 or for the more budget minded...so you can spend some extra money on diamond hones, Cold Steel Master Hunter in 3V is a solid choice...

PERSONALLY, I'd opt for a more forgiving steel for woods use and go for something like the the 110 or 140 size Terava Jaakarpuukko ..... 110 if coupled with a bigger blade like the Skrama, 140 size if used as a 1 knife option and not coupled with a larger blade.

for 200.00 you could get both a Scrama AND a 110 size, with the fantastic optional sheaths, delivered...... and have enough left over to take the wife/GF/significant other out to dinner.....and likely be MUCH happier with the end results.

many will disagree, this is simply my opinion....
 
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not much of a fan of supersteels for Bushcraft type stuff, it's simply too hard to resharpen in the field.... and bushcraft is too demanding on the edge, so you will want to resharpen it in the field if you ever do more than a single day hike and spend more than a few hours at a time in the woods.....

that being said, if you are dead set on the misery a super steel will bring you in the bush, Lionsteel M4 or for the more budget minded...so you can spend some extra money on diamond hones, Cold Steel Master Hunter in 3V is a solid choice...

PERSONALLY, I'd opt for a more forgiving steel for woods use and go for something like the the 110 or 140 size Terava Jaakarpuukko ..... 110 if coupled with a bigger blade like the Skrama, 140 size if used as a 1 knife option and not coupled with a larger blade.

for 200.00 you could get both a Scrama AND a 110 size, with the fantastic optional sheaths, delivered...... and have enough left over to take the wife/GF/significant other out to dinner.....and likely be MUCH happier with the end results.

many will disagree, this is simply my opinion....

In agreement here. Plus we see that super steels dont give a huge advantage with more cutting as say edge geometry does which matters much more.
 
My choice was the Bark River Wilderness Explorer (WE) (5.7" blade and a bit above your budget) which is similar to the Bravo 1.5. It is in Cruwear which is a carbon steel and something that can be sharpened in the field. Frankly, the re-sharpening need seldom happens in the woods. They drill holes in the tangs to reduce weight and make the knife balance better. The WE has a lower guard which I consider a very important design aspect for a knife that might be used roughly, in the dark by feel, or in situations where you aren't at 100% to reduce the potential for getting cut. No, I am not going to beat the hell out of it with a baton.

Added: In the past, my choice was a Kabar Becker BK-15 (1095) or a Dozier Pro Guides knife (D2) which are both at about 5.5" blade length. I would look at the Lionsteel line as a possible for this use. Lt Wright stuff is good.

Knives that I would avoid are the Kabar Becker BK-2, ESEE-5 or similar pry bar knives.
 
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IMHO "Super Steels" have their place. However, as H Hawgsnawt said above, that place is not out in the boonies or sticks; at least not as your primary blade.
You'd be much better off with a 10xx carbon steel or a 440/425HC blade for bushcraft. These are much less likely to chip, and are plenty tough for all the tasks you'll do ... the 10xx has been for hundreds of years so far, anyway.
If you're worried about carbon steel rusting, put a patina on the blade, then wipe it down with some warm cooking grease if you must while out in the field.

As H Hawgsnawt said, regardless of what the steel is, you will have to sharpen your knife.
Super Steels require a diamond stone.
What happens if you forget to put it in your pack, or worse, lose it?
With a traditional steel, if you forget or lose your Arkansas Stone, you can use the bottom of a coffee mug or a smooth river rock to sharpen the blade, if stropping on your leather boot or belt does not restore the edge.

I'll tell you what I've taken into the field when hunting, fishing, and camping over the last 50 plus years. You can take it for what it is worth:

Buck 110 or Old Timer 7OT for skinning, gutting, and butchering critters and cleaning fish. (A Buck 110 and Old Timer 7OT are good for skinning and gutting 2 to 3 whitetail deer without putting the edge to a stone. I don't need more than that. Do you?)

Buck 301 for general camp use; making fire sticks, tent pegs, spoons, etc. I can also use it for cleaning fish, fowl, and small game.

If I take a fixed blade along, it has been either a Mora Number 1 or Number 2, Buck 119, Western L66, or Ontario 499 "Jet Pilot Survival Knife".
Yes. All are stick tangs. I've never broken one yet.

Bow Saw.

Axe or hatchet.

I've usually been able to find enough twigs sticks, and small branches laying around for the camp fire, so normally don't have to baton any of my wood.
I do keep a light weight (less than a pound) wedge in my pack for the rare instances I need to split any wood.

I never baton a knife.
I use an axe and the wedge for splitting wood. I was taught to use the proper tools for the job at hand.

Truth to tell, before coming to these forums, I'd never even heard of batoning a knife.
It just wasn't done where I grew up, or by anyone I've hiked, bicycled, hunted, fished, and camped with in the 7 or 8 states (plus the USVI) that I've lived in since graduating from high school.
("Bicycled with" would be to get to, into and back from the boonies for camping, fishing, hunting, and so on. Not just biking around town.)
 
LT Wright GNS

4.5 inch blade, comes in 3v, both the full convex or sabre grind would work well, damm fine game or fishing knife too. I don't split cords of firewood with mine(but I'd bet it could), I prep wood for my gasification stove all the time with EASE. Great handle, and fits big hands too.

Bark river 1.5 is no slouch, a 1.25 LT oh my!!!!!

I laugh when I see the "super steel need diamonds" even if they did, bring a small diamond stone to the field, 1095 you'll be bring a stone too.

I like shapton stones, just bring a 1000 grit and sharpen ANYTHING...ANYWHERE...ANYTIME 3v or 1095. Even a dull 3v blade can't resist getting sharp on a 1000 grit Kurumako(shapton) or glass. They come in KME sizes too.
 
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I'm looking for a good general fixed blade for survival/bushcraft/camp with the following specs:

4.5"-6" blade
Full Tang
Less than 14oz weight
Around .18-.22 blade thickness
Super steel like CPM 3v, CPM 4v, K390...
Great cutter that will slice and make good feather sticks but also is very durable if in a survival situation.

I was considering the Bravo 1 or Aurora but seeing some mixed reviews on bark river and their tangs are very skeletonized which sort of worries me. Are there any other high quality knives that fit my budget and criteria?
Malanika puukko, by Danijel Haramina.

Zieg
 
Super Steels require a diamond stone.
What happens if you forget to put it in your pack, or worse, lose it?


hmmm

if you forget your stone, if you have 3v, you continue cutting at will, if you have 1095, you have a lever, not a knife, yes you can use a rock on both of them. usually when in the field, if I dull a knife, I go to my 2nd knife.

Sillyness or Dogma
 
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Sharpening in the woods is over rated unless you are going to be using your knife all the time and gone for weeks. A small diamond plate is no big thing to carry if you make a decision to carry such. Pretty much a waste of weight for the most part for short forays along the trail/in the woods. I would always have a second knife anyway with me....
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone I didn't expect to get a response so quickly =)

LT Wright makes nice stuff.

I was looking into LT Wright and considering the GNS or Genesis. Any thoughts on which is best for general use like camping, hiking, occasional bushcraft?

Save up a few more weeks and look into a Gossman Polaris or Deer Creek in 3V

The more I spend the worse I feel about using it so I have to set a limit somewhere =)

not much of a fan of supersteels for Bushcraft type stuff, it's simply too hard to resharpen in the field....

I should have been more clear about my intended use. I plan on using it for general camp, hiking use with occasional bushcraft (as practice). I'm looking for something that would be good for bushcraft and survival situations in case they arrive but hopefully that never happens. Is it impossible to sharpen CPM 3v in the field if no other option is available?

Malanika puukko, by Danijel Haramina.

Zieg

I think that is a little small for what I'm looking for.
 
If you are set on a steel like 3V ... the LT Wright Outback is a great knife just a bit above your $200.00 ... they offer a few other models in 3V now I think ... and some in AEB-L ... maybe not as tough as 3V but a nice stainless that takes a razors edge.

or the Bradford 4.5 ... again slightly higher than your $200.00 price tag but both great knives.

you could go Mora in stainless and a heavier bigger blade in a high carbon steel like a Becker in 1095 or LT Wright in 01 and stay under your $200.00 limit.
 
Speaking of 3V , how is it as far as rusting or pitting? I've never tried it but I've been curious about some fixed blades with 3V.
 
If you are set on a steel like 3V ... the LT Wright Outback is a great knife just a bit above your $200.00 ... they offer a few other models in 3V now I think ... and some in AEB-L ... maybe not as tough as 3V but a nice stainless that takes a razors edge.

or the Bradford 4.5 ... again slightly higher than your $200.00 price tag but both great knives.

you could go Mora in stainless and a heavier bigger blade in a high carbon steel like a Becker in 1095 or LT Wright in 01 and stay under your $200.00 limit.
Will look into the Outback thank you =) I'm not set on v3 but I've heard great things about it and the only negative I've heard is that it's hard to sharpen. From what I've seen it is very tough and holds an edge very well. I'm going from an F1 with vg10 so surely it isn't as chip happy as that right? I was looking at the Garberg but would like something a little bigger.

Speaking of 3V , how is it as far as rusting or pitting? I've never tried it but I've been curious about some fixed blades with 3V.

I know I'm a newb here compared to your 3,000+ posts but isn't that hijacking? lol
 
Will look into the Outback thank you =) I'm not set on v3 but I've heard great things about it and the only negative I've heard is that it's hard to sharpen. From what I've seen it is very tough and holds an edge very well. I'm going from an F1 with vg10 so surely it isn't as chip happy as that right? I was looking at the Garberg but would like something a little bigger.



I know I'm a newb here compared to your 3,000+ posts but isn't that hijacking? lol
Haha. Nah , I'm not trying to hijack your thread. Just a question that's relative to what's been said.
 
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