Wolverine666
Gold Member
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- Dec 7, 2009
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- 6,719
The handle is thicker and more hand-filling (3 dimensional) as opposed to just flat.
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
I have $200 what should I buy that will fit my needs?
- Thread starter letsurf
- Start date
haha just giving you s@%t.
BMCGear
Gold Member
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- Jan 4, 2014
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- 7,158
I've had both - the standard G5 has flat scales with a milled G10. It's great for gripping but in extended use wouldn't be very comfortable. The 3D scales are rounded and contoured. They fit my hand very well.
Rust
A2 vs 3V comparison.
A2 in a damp environment gets rust dots(very small ones) pretty quick, they tend to wipe off easy.
3V in damp kind of gets a grey shade on the blade, and for me, if salt is involved, 3v really doesn't rust, but all of a sudden you will see black dots, they don't wipe off, they are pits!!
This is on my compared Bark river blades, they say heat treat can change the rusting, so different brands might react differently. My Bravo1.5 in 3v has the grey hue and one pit from some sweat.
Genesis vs GNS LT Wright Knifes. Genesis is a fantastic bush blade(and really a do it all blade), the flat grind and scandi grind is 1/8 inch thick, and cuts wood well. The handle had no hot spots for me. I switched to the GNS for a better fitting handle for me, and it's pointy blade works better for me in the field dressing stuff and working with fish(mine is Convex). They both are excellent designs. The Outback I was looking at online when I got a deal on the forums here on the GNS(which stopped my search), at some point in the future I'd like to grip an Outback!!. The GNS handle I REALLY like, I wear XXL gloves, genesis handle was just a little short for me.
In Sept. I'm going to sell my A2 Genesis(if I can, peeps think A2 has the plague, lol), but I'm keeping my SS Garberg so I have a scandi blade($50 blade exchange score), and I'd rather beat on it vs the GNS, lol
3V, stropping takes longer( or forever if knife is dull), black bark river compound works well, I have a Chinese $15 whetstone I always have in the truck, it's a combo 400/1000, it sharpens 3v, but yes it takes a few more strokes vs A2. Usually just stropping on the 1000 side brings sharpness back. Sand paper and a mouse pad makes a very portable kit as well for sharpening, and is super lightweight. A first timer learning to sharpen, 3v might have some challenges, but if someone learned some feel on 1095, the transition to 3v will be seamless.
I have some keeper 1095 blades(I still like 1095), but I probably won't buy any more. 3v, S35vn and Elmax in fixed blades please.
A2 vs 3V comparison.
A2 in a damp environment gets rust dots(very small ones) pretty quick, they tend to wipe off easy.
3V in damp kind of gets a grey shade on the blade, and for me, if salt is involved, 3v really doesn't rust, but all of a sudden you will see black dots, they don't wipe off, they are pits!!
This is on my compared Bark river blades, they say heat treat can change the rusting, so different brands might react differently. My Bravo1.5 in 3v has the grey hue and one pit from some sweat.
Genesis vs GNS LT Wright Knifes. Genesis is a fantastic bush blade(and really a do it all blade), the flat grind and scandi grind is 1/8 inch thick, and cuts wood well. The handle had no hot spots for me. I switched to the GNS for a better fitting handle for me, and it's pointy blade works better for me in the field dressing stuff and working with fish(mine is Convex). They both are excellent designs. The Outback I was looking at online when I got a deal on the forums here on the GNS(which stopped my search), at some point in the future I'd like to grip an Outback!!. The GNS handle I REALLY like, I wear XXL gloves, genesis handle was just a little short for me.
In Sept. I'm going to sell my A2 Genesis(if I can, peeps think A2 has the plague, lol), but I'm keeping my SS Garberg so I have a scandi blade($50 blade exchange score), and I'd rather beat on it vs the GNS, lol
3V, stropping takes longer( or forever if knife is dull), black bark river compound works well, I have a Chinese $15 whetstone I always have in the truck, it's a combo 400/1000, it sharpens 3v, but yes it takes a few more strokes vs A2. Usually just stropping on the 1000 side brings sharpness back. Sand paper and a mouse pad makes a very portable kit as well for sharpening, and is super lightweight. A first timer learning to sharpen, 3v might have some challenges, but if someone learned some feel on 1095, the transition to 3v will be seamless.
I have some keeper 1095 blades(I still like 1095), but I probably won't buy any more. 3v, S35vn and Elmax in fixed blades please.
I was considering the esee 5 but feel like I'm evolving thanks to you guys. I think the WE may be a little bit bigger than I want. I know I said up to 6" at first but now I'm realizing how much difference there is between a 4" and a 6" knife. I'm amazed at how light it is for it's size.
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I'll be completely honest here at the risk of sounding ignorant. When you say go check out any of the custom knife makers on the forum I'm a little skeptical of the steel quality and heat treating process. I imagine a small shop in someone's garage and mediocre heat treating. When I think of the larger companies I imagine heat treating with closer specs and more science behind the process = better quality blade. Am I completely off here? How do you know a smaller custom knifemaker has the knowledge, skills, and equipment to heat treat a blade and match that of larger companies? Not trying to open a can of worms with that question but it is an honest concern during my knife shopping process (which I'm thoroughly enjoying by the way).
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- Nov 20, 2005
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I'm told that many custom makers send their blanks out to be heat treated. The custom or handmade guys really care about their product and don't make so many knives that they can't pay attention.
You seem to be worried about the strength of a blade (skeletonized tang and so forth). The other comment you made was I believe you said "highly skeletonized tang" on Bark Rivers. I have heard many negative things about Bark River and most revolve around the owner, Mike Stewart and a few concerns apparently the wrong steel. But they make a good knife and one you can depend on. I have heard that Mike Stewart really doesn't want to admit a mistake.... but for normal things, they fix it if necessary. I only own a couple Bark River blades, and all were essentially just about perfect. I also own a number of Blackjack classic knives that have a reduced or tapered tang. Never had a problem, but I don't beat on $300 knives in the woods. I have never talked to Mike Stewart by the way.
When I think of a "highly skeletonized" tang, I think of some of the neck knives like the BK-14 for example, but there are many. Those are neck knives. Weight is very important. Small knives don't require as much strength for their intended purpose. No body expects that you will take a sledge hammer to baton a small knife through some log to split it. That is not a knife task.
I felt the Wilderness Explorer was a tad long when I initially ordered it and I wondered if I was wasting my money. I was looking for a 5.5" general use woods blade, not 6". I really like it and it handles like a blade that is a bit smaller versus something like the ESEE 5 handling like something longer. Handling depends on what you're used to as well as how big your hands are and so forth.
The BRKT Bobcat hunter is a smaller version of it.
You seem to be worried about the strength of a blade (skeletonized tang and so forth). The other comment you made was I believe you said "highly skeletonized tang" on Bark Rivers. I have heard many negative things about Bark River and most revolve around the owner, Mike Stewart and a few concerns apparently the wrong steel. But they make a good knife and one you can depend on. I have heard that Mike Stewart really doesn't want to admit a mistake.... but for normal things, they fix it if necessary. I only own a couple Bark River blades, and all were essentially just about perfect. I also own a number of Blackjack classic knives that have a reduced or tapered tang. Never had a problem, but I don't beat on $300 knives in the woods. I have never talked to Mike Stewart by the way.
When I think of a "highly skeletonized" tang, I think of some of the neck knives like the BK-14 for example, but there are many. Those are neck knives. Weight is very important. Small knives don't require as much strength for their intended purpose. No body expects that you will take a sledge hammer to baton a small knife through some log to split it. That is not a knife task.
I felt the Wilderness Explorer was a tad long when I initially ordered it and I wondered if I was wasting my money. I was looking for a 5.5" general use woods blade, not 6". I really like it and it handles like a blade that is a bit smaller versus something like the ESEE 5 handling like something longer. Handling depends on what you're used to as well as how big your hands are and so forth.
The BRKT Bobcat hunter is a smaller version of it.
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By highly skeletonized I was just thinking about the weakest point of the tang not the overall material removed. The Bravo 1 doesn't have that much material taken away but toward the front of the handle there is an area with a lot of material missing and very thin edges. I would consider it a partial tang at best because at least 50% or more of the metal is missing there. https://imgur.com/Jh81RF2
I don't plan on taking it into the woods and beating it to death but if I have the option of two very similar knives and one has a true full tang and the other doesn't, then I would like to choose the stronger of the two "just in case" if you know what I mean.
eisman
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2009
- Messages
- 7,025
Yes, you are. The individual craftsman has better quality control than any manufacturer I know of. My most used custom knife is an WC Davis I've carried from Alaska to the Mojave. Never lets me down.
I just used a Phil Patton Kitchen knife to cook dinner. I love being able to specify what I want and get it, or buying something the smith thinks up. I've never had a bad experience with a custom knife, something I can't say even about manufacturers I know. Heck, my first Chris Reeve was custom and it's done a couple tours in the sandbox with me.
I know QC is way better for custom makers but I'm less concerned about how the knife looks and more worried about the steel and heat treat quality. Should I just ask the maker before I purchase if they use cryo for heat treatment or what should I ask to determine their heat treating quality?
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- Apr 13, 2016
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Exactly what my suggestion was going to be. In the woods nothing could be worse than super steels. I say either a basic Buck fixed of your choice, in 420HC, or a Terava Jääkäripuukko of your choice. I recommend the 140mm in carbon steel vs stainless, but either way both are great blades and known to all bushcrafters as the best bang for buck fixed blades money can buy.
If you have to have a higher grade steel I'd still suggest steering clear of super steels and, rather, compromise, opting for a nice 3 layer laminate with VG-10 from Helle, like the GT! Great Scandi grind example of a mid range knife that will really perform well and for a very long time!
Or some Fallkniven. They're good.
Tim Bailey (member here) -
Or Phillip Patton (who I think has a knife on the sale board right now).
That's a great looking Blade, I've contacted many of the guys who sell their Blades here, they will share the entire process from conception to execution of a Blade. They for sure don't want to burn somone and kill their chance to sell knifes here.
Actually I have a Fallkniven F1 and I'm selling it to buy this new knife because I don't like VG-10. I had a Fallkniven A1 and the first day I was chopping some sticks with it and ended up with a nasty chip. I was like wtf and ever since I've been babying my F1 VG-10 lam because I don't want to chip it.
Good advice. I just figured they would be secretive with the process I've never considered purchasing a custom before really.
I usually buy used knifes here, I'm to cheap to buy new, lol Then I find my right knife and sell the others off for the same price!
I think any blade can chip, I was cutting cardboard with a friend(lots and lots of cardboard, we dulled so many knifes), the stand outs were synergy between steel and geometry, A mora Garberg impressed me, SS version(I did roll the edge when I smacked some concrete with it, lol), thin convex 3v did really well(thick bravo's cut well, but hand fatigue). A 1095 Hess hunting knife(3 1/2 inch blade) dulled but still cut well due to it thin blade!! A2 Genesis full flat 1/8 inch stock cut really well, and the broomstick style handle helps with fatigue. A LT bushcrafter 3/16 thick full flat A2 I thought would be great, too much wedge shape, lots of hand fatigue, nuts.
I've never had a Fallkniven
Did you see the GNS in the for sale section? Even if you don't like it, it should resell very easy. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/lt-wright-gns.1607923/
Used, $150... I'm even tempted, lol
I think any blade can chip, I was cutting cardboard with a friend(lots and lots of cardboard, we dulled so many knifes), the stand outs were synergy between steel and geometry, A mora Garberg impressed me, SS version(I did roll the edge when I smacked some concrete with it, lol), thin convex 3v did really well(thick bravo's cut well, but hand fatigue). A 1095 Hess hunting knife(3 1/2 inch blade) dulled but still cut well due to it thin blade!! A2 Genesis full flat 1/8 inch stock cut really well, and the broomstick style handle helps with fatigue. A LT bushcrafter 3/16 thick full flat A2 I thought would be great, too much wedge shape, lots of hand fatigue, nuts.
I've never had a Fallkniven
Did you see the GNS in the for sale section? Even if you don't like it, it should resell very easy. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/lt-wright-gns.1607923/
Used, $150... I'm even tempted, lol
They look like quality knives but I wonder why they jump from 4" (guardian 4.5) to 5.5" (guardian 5)? The guardian 5 handle doesn't look very ergonomic to me. It it more comfortable than it looks?
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- Jul 22, 2015
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Nathan Carothers pretty much considered the authority on 3v IMHO is a small shop but his recipe for his delta 3v is legendary. His revisions to 3v heat treat basically has became a new cutlery standard for 3v and makes it almost stainless. But he keeps the delta protocol proprietary. Check out some videos on it. His knives are a little outside the price. I personally like survive! GSO knives but they catch alot of flack for long wait times etc.. But they are truly great knives if you can find one second hand . Also adventure sworn knives is another brand i have came to really like
Thanks for letting me know I just offered to buy it if he pays shipping hopefully that's fair. That knife fits my description perfectly and I probably won't find a better one for the price.