I have gotten to where I hate Torx screws.

tatteredmidnight said:
The quality of the torx driver can make a difference as well, particularly with the smaller screws. I have a set of Wiha micro drivers that are great, they grip noticeably better than the same sized drivers in cheapo generic brand.
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+1. Wiha makes excellent drivers, and with small screws/heads in particular (any type) the quality of the driver plays a big role - as everything gets smaller, same tolerances suddenly become relatively larger. And with less material it is easier to strip a head or bend or break a driver.
 
I like my Hex / torx screwed knives way better then pinned knives. I can take my torx screws knives apart and clean them and make the action way better then what it came like from the factory. Never had a problem with screws coming loose.. unless it was the pivot screw because I forgot to put a dab of loctite on it. But that is it.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
There is some technique to it. I have taken apart a bunch of folders and only stripped 1 or 2 small Torx screws because I thought I could break the loc tite bond with force. If you are destroying that many then you are doing something wrong. Why were you taking the knife apart that many times in the first place?

ETA: How many other types of screw types have been tried on a small screw? Torx were developed for a reason and that is so there is more surface area for the force to be distributed over compared to other types like a philips. I don't know what is best but I would imagine all very small screws are going to have the same problem.
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I actually wasn't taking the knife apart, just tightening its slaps, which were literally shifting. Just about ever time I over-torqued one and it broke.

Unlike other driver types if you don't have a perfect fit, they strip. Maybe like another poster said...I have a cheep ass set
 
Quality drivers and getting used to the fact they aren't easy to eyeball...having the right fit is important. With the small ones, if you are off in the size it's a problem.

Then, Loctite. You shouldn't have to gorilla the screws that hold scales on, just a drop of blue Loctite, and seat them until just solid. With the pivot, one drop and seat it until the tension is right and leave it sit.
 
I'll have to respectfully disagree with suggesting LocTite Blue 242. As per LocTite specs the Loctite Purple 222 would be the better choice. Thread locking compound is specified according to specific locking requirements AND fastener SIZE. ..I know,,I know many have used the blue stuff without problems ( as have I) but there are pretty small Torx screws on many knives and they are notorious for breaking off heads..been there done that. Just a warning...!
 
If you use the blue LockTite only put enough to barely cover a couple of the threads. You don't need much.
 
Why don't they just use flatheads? Their awful hard to strip, and you don't need any fancy tools.
 
brandonc said:
Why don't they just use flatheads? Their awful hard to strip, and you don't need any fancy tools.
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They don't want people taking apart the knives. Some even go so far as to use propriety screws like Microtech.

I remember back in the day when torx screws were advertised as a "feature." Like, no pin construction.
 
There is a type of Loctite that is removable, I use it exclusivlely for my knives with adjustable pivot screws.

242 (Blue): Removable-Strength
• Locks threaded fasteners against vibration loosening.
• Ideal for nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm).
• Prevents threads from rusting and leaking.
• Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly.
• Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius).

Use this Loctite on threaded parts that you need to keep from coming loose, but might want to remove occasionally for cleaning or to replace with another component. It is removable with some mechanical force.
 
Thanks guys for all of the replies. I still will prefer pinned knives from now on though. I have played with the screw enough and I have used the blue 242 loctight. I still just prefer the pinned knives. I want a knife that I can use and not have to work on by tightening the screws every once in a while. I appreciate your views on the subject. This is a personal preference. My grandfather and father made it just fine with a pinned old timer pocket knife and I feel the same way. If a knife is pinned right and has no blade play then it will always be the same way every time you use it. I guess that is why Swiss Army knives are so popular. I like the Spyderco Native because of just that fact. It is pinned and light to carry. Like I said before, I don't like S30V steel but that is all I can have with that knife. To be honest, I prefer Bucks 420HC over the S30V. Its easy to sharpen. If the Native came in 1095 carbon steel or Bucks 420HC or 440C, then that would be the perfect set up to me. Thanks for your replies any way.
 
Wildone39, How about a meduim or large Cold Steel Voyager? I have tanto and clip point blade large Voyagers 4" blades. They're delivered like razor sharp and hold an edge pretty well. They're simple to sharpen, pinned and still tight as a drum after a lot of light to medium use. I love them. They're still around (new - old stock models). CS does a a good job on them Japanese VG-1. I think I paid about $40 for each. :thumbup:
 
Artfully Martial said:
They don't want people taking apart the knives. Some even go so far as to use propriety screws like Microtech.
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I could see if they used proprietary screws or pinned/riveted construction. But using easily removed screws, such as Torx, invites disassembly. If they refuse to acknowledge this, they need to get with it.

I do kind of like Eka's flat screw construction. They can be disassembled with nothing more than a penny.
 
shecky said:
I could see if they used proprietary screws or pinned/riveted construction. But using easily removed screws, such as Torx, invites disassembly. If they refuse to acknowledge this, they need to get with it.

I do kind of like Eka's flat screw construction. They can be disassembled with nothing more than a penny.
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I'd bet that fewer than 1% of Americans have a tiny torx bits laying around.

The torx screw is a stupid idea. They should have used a phillips head or something that soldiers in the field might have a chance of actually having nearby.
 
Try Loc-Tite, an O-Ring or teflon tape.

If nothing else, I'm sure you can find a replacement screw.
 
I actually don't have a problem with the TORX screws , my problem is that most of the TORX screwdrivers out there are piece of crap

If you want a solid TORX screwdriver that won't break after 2 days and ruin your screws , you need to buy something like Snap-on or Wiha
They are not cheap , but they are definitely worth it , especially considering you don't need a full set , T6 and T10 are pretty much all you will ever need
 
Just about ever time I over-torqued one and it broke.
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Which is I think the usual reason that they strip or break. Small screws, most screws actually, really just need a firm snug to tighten them. Some though think things aren't tight less they put a little Hercules to it. Small screws don't need that. Like others have said a drop of removeable loc-tite will hold for years.

Torx screws are an industry standard for small screws these days. That is because they are stronger than slot heads or philips. They do require the right tool. Easy to get that though.

I can say that it is torx screws that are used to hold the carbide inserts onto face wills and end mills, etc. in industry. Such tools take great heat and vibration. We install the inserts with no loc-tite and just a snug. They rarely come loose and if so it's usually not the screws fault.

tipoc
 
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