I just dont like 440C!

FIGHT!!! FIGHT!!! Oh, sorry, I thought that this was going to turn into one of those forged vs stock removal threads. Some people get real :grumpy: when they think that someone is badmouthing their personal favorite.


Edited to put in a word I left out.
 
I got PC International series balisong circa 1985, stamped made in Japan. On the ad it was advertised 440C. I am not sure if it is true, but it definitely cuts much better than the other 420 Taiwan balisongs I have, although the blade is much thicker (3/16)

Can anyone confirm if it is truly 440C?
 
I have 440C in several knives (4 versions of Benchmade's Griptilians, and one Spyderco Meerkat). I have been using my first Griptilian (550) for a year now, and have nothing but good things to say about it. I am certain that like any steel, heat treat and edge grind have everything to do with the quality. The 440C of my Benchmades (I haven't used the Meerkat a whole lot) is, IMO, pretty close to an ideal stainless blade steel. It takes a scary edge, holds it pretty well for all-around uses, is very easy to resharpen on my Sharpmaker, and so far has been very rust-resistant and not brittle at all.

I like edge-holding, but I do NOT need a blade steel that holds an edge almost forever, then is a bear to resharpen when it becomes necessary. The only knife I have in 440V is my Military, which I love, but I do not use it as much because of the resharpening difficulty.

Perhaps the 440C knives you have used had bad heat treat, or were mismarked 440C. As for the older Buck 110, the main reason it was hard to resharpen is because it had a convex, "apple-seed" edge grind. And I do not think Buck ever used 440C, at least on the 110, I think it was 425, and now it is 420HC.

I know for a fact just because a blade is marked a certain steel, does not mean it is up to the potential of that steel's name. The 440C on art knives (BTW, a lot of art knives are made of 420J2) is almost certainly not the same heat treat as on the Benchmades.

I've had nothing but good luck with the 440C. I haven't had much problems with ATS/154CM either. I am anxious to try out something in VG-10.
Jim
 
Since someone opened the door...for a long time I have wondered what were considered the most valid and accepted arguments for and against forged blades and blades fashioned by the stock removal method.

I understand the mechanics involved in each process, but that knowledge doesn't provide any insight into which process produces the more desirable end product.
 
Hi, all . Not wanting to offend any one, but simply to clarify>>>> From about 1982 to 1994 Buck used 425m in their production knives. It was a bear to sharpen. The Edge 2000 helps that alot. Prior to that it was 440C and is very consumer friendly to sharpen and holds a good edge for a "mass produced knife" ( some like it some dont) I still have my 112 form 1974 and still use it from time to time.
take care,
guy
 
I second Don's request. I have read literature from knifemakers claiming that forged knives are better, and from others saying that it makes no difference. I've no idea which side is right.
 
The main reason that I have read and heard for forged blade superiority is the ability to control the crystal structure and the crystal "grain" direction. Also I have been told that air hardening steels are harder to control the heat treat and crystal structure. This is just heresay on my part though. I can explain it better with regards to Japanese swords but it doesnt apply to well to modern knife making.


Dave
 
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