I need a Hunting knife. My Bk2 just doesn't cut it

wfsltt said:
Go to youtube and watch all of the knife/hunting videos by user virtuovice and then pick one. He does the most exhaustive testing of hunting knives that I've ever seen. Their deer range in size between whitetail and small elk. He shoots between 70 -100 per year and processes them on video and then shows the damage tot eh knife edge. He also shows xrays of the handles so you can see the tang.

This guy has darn near tested every production blade in most types of steel available. He also shows how to sharpen them and talks about how hard they are to sharpen.

I've owned and tested many, many knives and used them to process my deer as well as others, but normally less than 10 per year. After 25 years of this I have a pretty good handle on what works for me. I wouldn't use some of the blades that have been recommended, nor would virtuovice. He does have videos of the test using them posted. Heck, I used a pocket knife with a 3" blade to process a deer from field to freezer, so don't get all caught up in something fancy. Also, if you spend $100 or more on a knife for this task spend it on blade material so you don't have to sharpen you knife during the processing of a large elk. Again Virtuovice talks about and shows you why and which is best. He processes his deer a little different than I do, but I stll think he is pretty much dead on, when if comes to knives he recommends. He goes high dollar, but a $15 Rapala works pretty darn good too. Keep that in mind. :)
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^^^ THIS ^^^

https://www.youtube.com/user/virtuovice/featured

One of the things not being discussed much here is the difference between steels with large carbides (e.g. D2, 440C) vs those with small or no appreciable carbides (e.g. 1095, 420HC). My sense is that in dealing with hair and the cutting of flesh, that large carbide steels keep the "micro-serrated" cutting performance produced by the large carbides (also good for rope cutting) that produce better abrasion resistance, but that repeated bone strikes with these steels can lead to chipping as the carbides are knocked out of the matrix. All this to say, I would lean towards a large carbide steel if you want to minimize sharpening during the process. Virtuovice encounters this in his earlier video reviews of knives like those from Buck that use 420HC that don't make it through a full processing before dulling.

Can't recommend his videos enough.
 
Really, the bottom line is - if you like it and it zips the animals open, and quarters them, or whatever else you want to do to process them, it's the perfect hunting knife for you.
 
My brothers and I hunt hogs. Last time out my Izula II did a great job although I wished I had the three. My brother used Havalon blades and let me say they worked great. I had to re-hone the Izula 4x for three hogs. All my brother had to do was change blades. The last hunt I didn't make and he also used Gerber's gut hook that uses replaceable utility blades. My brother and I both agree you need a bigger knife for the joints.
 
By the time your kids are old enough, they won't want your stuff (guns, knives, etc) except to hang on the wall.
I've found that out, now that I've been over the hill and on the way back down the other side.
 
I have and use some of my dads, except for i didnt get his knife, suchs having 4 siblings when it comes to inheriting stuff
 
I have to recommend the Buck 110. great for hunters an a family heirloom. dresses game well. I bought one for my dad long time ago an he always carries it an loves it. one day it'll be mine.
 
wolverine_173 said:
I love the look of that. Is 1095 work well or does it dull quickly?

I was looking at a bark river bravo 1 in a2. Is it really worth the extra money for a2?
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Works great. The steel holds an edge a long time but is still relatively easy to sharpen. 1095 for the win!

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Beckerhead #42
 
I've got a CRKT skinning knife and a caping knife. Small, sharp, and functional. Can't remember the model names.
 
Gee, that black paper micarta is one of the best things I've ever seen! Wow! Now I don't know what to get for my next knife!
 
GingivitisKahn said:
BK11 - perfect size, IMO for cleaning game - cost < $40
Micarta handles for same - cost about $20

Leaves you > $40 for bubble gum and such.

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Beckerhead #42
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I have the BK14, but it's the same blade. I have a similar pocket holster as well.

That blade works great for cleaning animals.

For multiple deer or hogs with tough skin I'd just have a sharpening steel to give it a few strokes in between. When I used to process a lot of game I'd just get several of the same knife to keep going.

Three BK14s are less than one expensive knife if cost is a factor.

It all depends on how often you're going to be cleaning animals and what type of investment you want to make.
 
Has anyone tried or used a PHK Falkniven. It seems to get some good reviews as a hunting knife and I would be interested to hear some opinions. The F1 is a survival knife and the TK2, in my humble opinion, has too much point for a hunter and I cannot get my eyes around the odd shaped handle. Is the 3G steel worth the extra money?
 
In your $100.00 or under price range Ontario Rat has knives from 3.5 inches up to over 10 inches in coated 1095.

Queen has the D2 skinner, a 3.75 inch fixed blade for $69.95. Queen blades take a nice edge but a diamond hone, or Norton will keep you from wasting time. It does take a nice edge for cutting hide, and meat and will last substantially longer than 1095 while doing so.

Cold Steel makes a version of their Pendleton hunter ( 36LPSS) in VG1 stainless ( not the expensive San Mai model!) that runs around $60.00 and does pretty well at the type of chores you describe. It's in between 1095 and D2 in wear resistance, probably closer to D2. Don't get the edge too thin or too low an angle as stainless steels in general are a bit less tough. There are some exceptions naturally.

There are some more but most in this price range either have 1095 steel which is pretty well represented here or come in somewhere over your limit which I used as a hard cap. I didn't include knives even $15 over.

What would I get? I'd try for something in D2 like the Queen and use the extra to get a portable DMT Bi Fold in Coarse/Extra coarse and not worry about whether D2 is more wear resistant. Just a note: Don't press hard if using a diamond stone. Get a Norton if you want to do that. It's almost as fast as diamonds on the high wear steels but much tougher and won't have their diamonds stripped off if I get ham handed and press too hard like sometimes happens with these old hands when they get cold. The wooden grips are nice in cold weather too.

Good luck

Joe
 
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