I need a sharpening setup and I don't want to go the "guided" route

Thanks HH. I always enjoy your photos. Yes, the more scraping the blade on various grit stones or stropping one does, the more chances of convexing the edge. Hence, less sharpening equals a truer angled edge. DM
 
Thanks again, HH. Your posts are consistently helpful (as are those of a number of other posters too). After reading a number of threads here, I have been using a Sharpie religiously and I stop to check what is happening often. Haven't been doing this freehand for long (maybe 5-6 weeks), but I try to practice often and thoughtfully. Progress is steady; edges are sharper and lots fewer mistakes than before.

To the OP: sorry for hijacking your thread. :(

Go slow, use a Sharpie, and stop often to visually inspect what you're doing. Also, the black compound works well in its own right, makes a toothier edge for EDU. So most often I'll grind with the fine side of a Norton Crystalon stone, refine it with the white compound, and maintain it with the black compound or a combination of black and white compounds depending on what the tool is used for.

Interesting - this is essentially the same method I use for my waterstones. Grind with the 1000 grit, refine with a backhoning (stropping) on a 6000 grit stone, maintain it with a 4000 grit waterstone. Keep in mind, an abrasive on a conformable surface - even thin paper over a stone - will reduce the effective grit size by a considerable amount. A 600 grit abrasive used on a strop has an effective scratch pattern of something closer to 1500 grit or smaller.
 
You'll be amazed at what you do with the emery compound. In addition to cleaning up a stubborn burr, it can recondition a fairly beat-up edge. Also, when convexing I use a hard stone and polish the transitions out with some black compound on newspaper - leaves a real nice satin finish.

I am liking the black emery. The fine side of a Norton IB8 india stone was leaving the edges with a frosted look. After stropping with the black emery the edge was more refined and had a satin finish.

I have used the green and white for years and now tried the black. Where does the Flexcut Gold fit in the rouge table? Just want to get your opinion on it before I buy a bar of it.
 
I am liking the black emery. The fine side of a Norton IB8 india stone was leaving the edges with a frosted look. After stropping with the black emery the edge was more refined and had a satin finish.

I have used the green and white for years and now tried the black. Where does the Flexcut Gold fit in the rouge table? Just want to get your opinion on it before I buy a bar of it.

Glad its working out for you, great when advice actually benefits someone.

The Flexcut is somewhere between the white AlumOx and green CrO. Works well, but I never use it anymore. I'm not carving or shaving with my edges and the white (to me) is at the upper limit of how polished I would normally want an edge. Combine that with the white working faster and having a more (to me) user friendly binder in terms of application (Flexcut binder is very hard by comparison), and the Flexcut stays in my bin most of the time next to my green compound. If I didn't have a bunch of the white lying around I'd use it and be happy.
 
Thanks for the tip about going from DMT to the ceramics. That info is what I think will help my sharpening tremendously.
 
I am liking the black emery. The fine side of a Norton IB8 india stone was leaving the edges with a frosted look. After stropping with the black emery the edge was more refined and had a satin finish.

I have used the green and white for years and now tried the black. Where does the Flexcut Gold fit in the rouge table? Just want to get your opinion on it before I buy a bar of it.


I did a couple of side by side tests with the Flexcut and the Sears white. Flexcut does a better job, especially when I use a few drops of mineral oil and make a slurry on a maple board. The difference isn't as noticeable on newspaper. I'm having a hard time telling if one is a smaller particle/makes a smaller scratch pattern than the other. Either way its cheap enough to buy some and give it a try.
 
I did a couple of side by side tests with the Flexcut and the Sears white. Flexcut does a better job, especially when I use a few drops of mineral oil and make a slurry on a maple board. The difference isn't as noticeable on newspaper. I'm having a hard time telling if one is a smaller particle/makes a smaller scratch pattern than the other. Either way its cheap enough to buy some and give it a try.

Thanks for taking the time to do a comparison.

As long as it is near mirror like the white and cuts better than the white, then I will definitely give it a try. I don't need to go past the white because I like some bite in the edge.
 
I did a couple of side by side tests with the Flexcut and the Sears white. Flexcut does a better job, especially when I use a few drops of mineral oil and make a slurry on a maple board. The difference isn't as noticeable on newspaper. I'm having a hard time telling if one is a smaller particle/makes a smaller scratch pattern than the other. Either way its cheap enough to buy some and give it a try.

I seem to recall seeing something posted a long while back (or might've seen it elsewhere on the web; I'm not sure), the Flexcut (Gold?) compound is apparently a blend/mix of a couple or three different abrasives. So, I'd think it would be difficult to pin down how it performs, if there may be a variation in scratch patterns produced by the 'mix' in Flexcut. I might be wrong, but that's the impression I was left with, about Flexcut.

Ah, here it is, from a description on Flexcut's own site:
Designed for quickly maintaining a sharp edge, Flexcut Gold Polishing Compound has been specially formulated to apply like a crayon. Its blend of aluminum and titanium oxide provides a balance between aggressive removal of hardened tool steels and offers a high-color polish.

No idea of particle sizes of each, though.
 
As I recall (but cannot find the site that stated this) Flexcut has particle sizes starting at .5 micron and some that are larger. Primarily for preparing carving tools, but with faster polishing action than smaller/finer particles. Intended for hand stropping. My only complaint that the binder is very hard, better suited for applying to a powered wheel or belt. Not an issue if I'm making a paste or slurry but seems to give me trouble applying it dry to a strop.
 
Is the Norton jb8 better/worse than the ib8 for sharpening? Which one is preferred by you sharpening guru's for a new guy if they cost about the same? :)

Oh yeah, can you use either one dry?

Thx.
Mike
 
Thanks everyone. I am trying to learn how to free hand sharpen in the field and these types of threads are so useful! Thanks for the info!
 
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