I've owned a KME for years and it is an excellent system. As has been said, all of the systems have pros and cons and a lot of it comes down to personal preference.
If your goal is a sharp knife, the KME will absolutely get you there.
South paw draw
touched on some blade grinds being challenging and that can be true. It's not nearly the issue some folks will make it out to be, but you do need some area along the spine to get a grip on. No matter what anyone says, I strongly believe the best way to clamp any knife in the KME is at the center along it's length. So when looking at a knife, picture the surface area there and imagine of the clamp would have enough purchase. People will say that full flat grinds don't work on the KME because they slip. They are wrong. Proper clamping technique will take care of 90% of the issues and some fabric-type tape like hockey tape will take care of the rest.
I've sharpened tiny little knives up to 8" chef's knives and it has performed great in all cases. I've sharpened a bunch of FFG Spydercos and it works extremely well. All this uneven bevel talk escapes me. I couldn't care less. I want a sharp knife. I don't care how it looks I care how it performs. I see people often say that clamped systems leave this "big wide" bevel a the tip. I guess. Maybe...??? I've only noticed this on longer knives and I doubt I would have ever even noticed if the internet didn't tell me I should notice it. Center the knife in the clamp and sharpen. That's my own take and for others who see it different, that's cool.
The KME is pretty easy to use too. Don't feel like sitting down using the base (which you should absolutely get) no problem. Just grab the pistol grip, pop on the TV and sharpen in your chair.
In my opinion, the primary con of the KME is stone size. The four inch stones can mean more time. But, that is largely
only an issue with
re-profiling or major edge repair. Meaning, if you have to hog off a lot of metal. But even then, once you have your bevel set and move into maintenance this is no longer an issue. And this will be an issue with any system using 4" stones.
You have a ton of versatility and excellent precision.
Some will say that the KME can only go down to 17dps. And it is true that is how the scale is marked but the actual angle on the bevel will generally be lower. As I said, I've never encountered a Spydero model or others that claim ~15dps bevels that have been a problem. And, if you really had to, you can flip the guide rail and get much lower.
I bought my KME back when it came standard with ceramic and Arkansas stones so I don't know what's in the deluxe kit but I strongly recommend the base, the 100 grit diamond stone, a kangaroo strop with 1um emulsion and the pen jaws if you have smaller/thinner knives. From there you can adjust to your needs.
I also strongly recommend finding Dean O on YouTube and watching his KME videos. He's pretty anal about his technique but his videos are excellent and if you follow what he lays out it's an awesome start. I don't do the number of strokes and such that he does but it's great info. In my opinion, the best KME stuff out there.
If you clamp your knife in the center of the spine every time, you won't have issues with irregular angles. You don't have to be super precise. Just eye ball it in and sharpen. As long as you always strive to have it centered you'll be good to go.