Recommendation? I need a sharpening system

I got my KME last night haven't really used it plan to sharpen my first test knife on it this weekend. I will be risking my Kershaw Cryo II Tanto for learning this as I am curious how it will do on the recurve portion and this knife is a beater for me I really don't like AO knives so it doesn't hold much personal value.
 
KME helped one of the boys (with sufficient motor skills when younger, to experience success with Sharpmaker), establish new edge from factory at 40 degrees, and get sharper edges on Cryo 1 then he did with Sharpmaker. KME also helped him better understand sharpening process because KME's instruction set isolates procedures more explicitly (with dad's running commentary). And with one hand on base, it is less likely kids will get bit. Still training kids to use Sharpmaker to resharpen / hone established edges. Hoping to move young adults to freehand using stones in the field for honing as a convenience. But that is for another day...

Sharpmaker OEM = Med~800-900, Fine~2-3k, Ultra fine~4-6k, congress moldmaker SIC 600, 400, 240 grit, and idahone medium
alumina ceramic ~500 grit rods are now usable with 3rd party KME universal stone holder, as well as a couple of Sharpmaker's.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ErtWtAKdT68
 
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We have changed out 3 springs from various Cryo's, but kids still like them. Go figure...
 
Re-curve blades are very difficult on most any system. I suspect if most sharpeners turned blade makers they'd never design a re-curve. :)

The tanto style also can be tricky. I've done a couple on the KME and it's been awhile but I think I treated them as separate edges and moved the knife in the clamp.
 
Also, recurves tend to develop when the blade shape is straight and the straight section is wider than the stone's width. Then when the sharpening guy tries to sharpen the entire straight section with a single sweep on the stone, the outer mini sections of the straight section don't get enough stone time. The center section of the straight section gets most stone time.
So, while it is "possible", it is imho not advisable to sharpen a long straight edge on an Apex Pro style system (stone width is only 1 inch!), also not on the 204MF or similar rod-based systems. 204-freehanding is also not advisable.
 
Lone_Wolfe Lone_Wolfe noted not sure why and I wish they would up grade their system to work more like other photo sharing with forum code compatibility.

dat tanto grind has a huge recurve. was that you or was the recurve there from the beginning?
The blade original had a recurve which is part of the complexity I am talking about in the blade shape along with a tanto point.

Re-curve blades are very difficult on most any system. I suspect if most sharpeners turned blade makers they'd never design a re-curve. :)

The tanto style also can be tricky. I've done a couple on the KME and it's been awhile but I think I treated them as separate edges and moved the knife in the clamp.
I didn't move mine in the clamp but after the first stone I thought that would have been a better way but I did nearly treat it like another edge as I would work the recurved belly then worked the tanto tip just didn't adjust the blade in the clamp.
 
Lone_Wolfe Lone_Wolfe noted not sure why and I wish they would up grade their system to work more like other photo sharing with forum code compatibility.

The blade original had a recurve which is part of the complexity I am talking about in the blade shape along with a tanto point.

I didn't move mine in the clamp but after the first stone I thought that would have been a better way but I did nearly treat it like another edge as I would work the recurved belly then worked the tanto tip just didn't adjust the blade in the clamp.

I'm a big fan of Dean O's KME videos on YouTube and remembered he did on tanto blades:

 
So what he does @ around 6:30 is what I did of not re-position but still treating it separately so that's cool. I do wonder if using something like their broad head jaws might work better for a tanto.
 
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