I need advice, you'll get a laugh

I did get an empathetic laugh out of your initial post...I went thru a similar thing only 6 months ago and yer post brought it all back :)
FWIW, I went with a multitool attachment with an 8" contact wheel...added to the expense considerably but allows the hollow grind option...I hooked it to a bench grinder (I've got very limited space) so there's still the grinder wheel there for savage profiling.
Also, I reckon that if you are interested now in making knives, don't worry about the "what if I'm crap" option...your interest and experience will help you strive NOT to be crap and you'll get a whole bunch of satisfaction to boot :D
 
Oh yeah, I got a 64.5" bandsaw too, running 24 tpi bimetal blades (for ti liners)...is cheap and cheerful :)
 
jmx,

I would recommend you buy the best you can afford. Since you are in the same boat I was a few years ago I highly recommend the Sears Craftsman 1 hp 2 x 42 belt grinder. I used mine for 3 years and over 150 knives most of which were folders. You can see one of them here.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=178824

I buy belts from supergrit that are Norton Ceramics and are bargain priced.

If you go for the craftsman make a stiffer platten out of heavy 2" angle iron and make a small tool rest that will interchange with the very usefull table craftsman provides.
 
As far as the Coote goes, That's a bit rich for right now, and if I get to a point where I want a real grinder, I'd probably save up and go further than that.

Chang, good tips, I might even have some aluminum extrusions here that I could work into the mitre box thing. Is this a better cutting idea than clamping in my vise for sawing? Is it better because of less workpiece flexure, or making square cuts?

Patrick, thanks for the info on the HF saw, here again I've decided for now that a grinder is a higher priority. As I mentioned above, if this knifemaking thing sticks (startin to feel like it might) I'll probably end up with a real metal cutting saw, even if it's used and I have to refurb it a bit. Orange County eh? I've an 11:00 AM on thursday in Laguna Hills, does that count?

I must also mention that I intended my first projects to be neck knives, small fixed blades. I think I might have screwed up by starting with all 3/16" or 5/32" x 1.5 stock. I think I should have got a bit of 1/8" x 1.25 " to start....oops.

Thaks guys (I'm assuming here, any ladies present?)

jmx
 
buying a really good grinder does two things.....it gets you past the usual two years of using a crappy one and learning VERY slowly... and it puts you on par with the best knifemakers.....cause you have the same equipment and can do anything they can do. The learning very slowly thing is very real. Having a good variable speed grinder speeds up your learning curve enormously......ask Jerry Hossom who after 20 years finally got one and is finally making nice knives!!! :):):)
Remember....if you buy a good tool, and take care of it...it will be worth plenty of money if you have to sell it. I have a square wheel that I bought over 18 years ago and a Bader that I bought a year later, and except for putting a variable speed on the Square Wheel (the knives I made with it before the variable speed sucked!!!) and replacing the motor on the Bader about 3 years ago (a 220 2 hp that I LEAN ON!!) they are both going strong.......Almost 20 years later. Figure it out. I have been thru this with guns, knives, tools, watches.........everything........
the answer is-Buy the best and forget the rest!!!!!! NO BS!!
except maybe for the little story about Jerry!!! :):p:):p:)
 
Tom setting here reading you post I
can`t say that I disagree with you but!
If I waited until I got a good grinder
I would still be waiting (I`m still waiting) & I started
this suff about 5 yrs. ago. Not everyone
has $2000 for a grinder right of, hell some
of us don`t even have the $200 I bet.
Besides we all know the everone that
lives of shore has all of the money
anyway:rolleyes:
One more thing I have a heavy barrel
223 (new $200) single shot that will shoot
in the 3s and I`m not talking about 3in.
An I have not got a GOOD load for it yet
 
>>Orange County eh? I've an 11:00 AM on thursday in Laguna Hills, does that count?

I'm in Orange, a little closer than Laguna Hills. Won't be home Thurs. though, gotta work :(

Patrick
 
I got a chopsaw off of eBay that's the same kind as HF sells. Avoid it. Cost me about $90 shipped, and they threw in a free angle grinder. The angle grinder kicks butt. Unfortunately, the chopsaw drags it. I have many feet of 3/8" brass rod. This chopsaw takes about 10 minutes to cut it, because it keeps stalling on it. No torque whatsoever. I totally got hosed.
For my first grinder, I have a Craftsman 4x36" that I used for about a year and a half before I got the Grizzly. I still use the Craftsman, after many mods, to profile, shape handles, do large flats, etc. I also have a 6" bench grinder for some profiling.
Tom is dead-on on the learning curve. I'm still in slow motion on learning compared to some of these guys that have the cash and REAL equipment, but it beats making nothing. Remember, there's always forging...
 
How do you choose a hacksaw, and hacksaw blades? I see that on Amazon.com, many (not all) hacksaws are called "high tension" - is that just marketingese? What about brands (Lenox, Stanley,...)? Reg. blades, what should you look for? Is a high value of "TPIs" (?) important?

Thanks,

JD
 
For my 2¢ worth, I am glad I have my Hard Core. I used a Bader for about two weeks and it made me thankful for what I have. Granted, set up time is quite a bit longer on a Hard Core when changing from a flat platen to a contact wheel but since I primarily flat grind, its a mute point.

The ONLY problem I have a with a Coote, Kalamazoo or a similar setup running a 72" belt is that while flat grinding, I like to be able to look directly down at where I am grinding. With those particular grinders, my head gets in the way of the belt or is it that the belt gets in the way of my head? Either way, I would sooner or later bump into the belt with my head! Other than that, they are good, intermediately priced grinders. I would think that some sort of "square wheel" or three wheel set up would be optimal for flat grinding. Rob Frink's grinder looks like a good solution.

C Wilkins
 
I have to say that not all of us wants to make knives to sell.
I have to agree with Sylvester, I do have the Sears 2x42 1/2 HP
and it works ok. I made a platen for it, very important, and
bolted it to the side. You can easily profile a blade in 15 min,
even if you do have to let the motor cool a bit. The high belt speed
is the main problem. This set-up only flat grinds, of course.
When you turn out a nice knife, you can take pride that you work
with less than top notch machines. Of course the hacksaw and files
do work, and you can really be proud. Get good belts and spend more
on using fresh ones.
 
Originally posted by C L Wilkins
With those particular grinders, my head gets in the way of the belt or is it that the belt gets in the way of my head? Either way, I would sooner or later bump into the belt with my head

C Wilkins
Click to expand...

Ouch. I use the Grizzly, and I wear a face shield for just in case I get sloppy and face collides with running belt. I would hate to have the dreaded 2" mark on my forehead. :eek:
 
well i got the coote 2x72 then the harbor frieght 64 1/2 and three years later i went hardcore with tru grit 1 1/2 var, 2x72 and several atcments later i just got the 9 inch disc witch i have a post up to get going on. enjoy the ride, what is more important that your skill, is your desire!
 
Tom, It's not that I don't want to have a gnarley grinder, just that I don't have the cash right now. If you'd like to sponsor me and send one of your spares, I'll post ongoing pics of my learning curve and the stuff I make until such time as you need the machine or I can buy my own. I'll pay the freight! I always prefer high performance when I can afford it.

I think Sylvester gets my position pretty well. At this point while I think the hot rod 2x 72 grinders look very useful, and the Hard Core looks sweet ( I saw one at Tru Grit last friday) and is especially attractive with the variable drive, unless someone is going to buy me one, it'll be a while before I have that kind of Hard Core stuff.

As far as the comment about wanting to sell the knives you make, my position is: I'd like to just make sweet, desireable knives. Enough in various shapes and sizes to give to those I care about and maybe a few extra to fund my (far off) retirement. I figure that if I have any talent at all (remains to be seen) it'll take me a dozen years or so before my stuff's worth much more than the cost of materials. In the near term I figure asking for the cost of materials might be asking too much.

Thanks for your input

jmx
 
Looking at some of what you've built with second rate gear is inspiring. If you're suffering from too much of that throwaway damascus stuff, let me know!

jmx
 
Been there: My first two years making knives seriously using a 1/4 horse power WEN bench grinder, 1/4 inch hand electric drill, files, sandpaper and bench stone with a crack in the center. Sure was glad to get that first Burr King!
 
Joss writes:

How do you choose a hacksaw, and hacksaw blades? I see that on Amazon.com, many (not all) hacksaws are called "high tension" - is that just marketingese? What about brands (Lenox, Stanley,...)? Reg. blades, what should you look for? Is a high value of "TPIs" (?) important?

Good questions. TPIs are Teeth per Inch. I typically buy 18-24 tpi bi-metal ones for knife making. Neither works very well on non-annealed steel. For that I use a Makita 4 1/2" angle grinder with a 1/16" thick disc for rough cutting. I'm curious to see what others get.

Mike
 
After all this debate, I think the 1 hp 2"x42" Craftsman with the 8" disc seems like the most practical option so far. My only concern is that I can't find a lot of 2"x42" belts on the net. Most are 2"x48" or 2"x 72". What's up with this?

Anyone try any mods on this machine to slow the belt or is a 1 hp motor not up for tinkering?

jmx
 
ok. ditto on the bandsaw, get a good blade and a slow bandsaw. Grinders, I have a grizz, and with some fine tuning, works great for flat grinding, hollow grinding is more difficult due to the motor placement. 40 grit belts profile quick, as chang said, but get good belts, 3m 977 or the norton equivalent. Good belts make a woprld of difference. As for the 1x30, i used that same one, from central machinery, and still do. Nice for sharpening, the disc is nice for dovetailing boldters and handle material, jsut get some decent discs. as for the 1x30, it can grind, u can find ceramic nortons in McMaster Carr catalog for it, and they work great. Also, u can get fine belts, like 600 or 800 and use it to clean up flat grinds on knives. For profiling, a good hacksaw, bi metal blade, and a drill press work nice. Drill 1/8" holes with a cobalt 135 degree tip bit where u want to cut, and then cut the webbing...works fast.

As for admiral annealed stuff, its junk. The HRA 1084 and 1095 i have gotten from supply houses, which often comes from Admiral, IS NOT fully annealed. the outer sides are, but its hard as a rock inside. Sure, its cheap, but its a pain to drill or cut and kills bits and hacksaw blades.

grizz can run you around 300 plus shipping, but if u have a motor and some machining know how, u can order the grinding assembly w/o the motor for $150 i think, and mount it with pulleys for a VS grinder. Hope this helps!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top