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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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I need an affordable freehand sharpening solution.
- Thread starter the kid
- Start date
There is a Norton two sided "economy" stone sold at Home Depot's for less than $6 and I am told it is a good stone. I was also told to use it dry so you should try that!
I picked one up but havent used it yet as I am waiting on some user knives to sharpen!
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
Those work great!!! The only other thing you need is an old belt to strop on, and your good to go.
I went to a local leather shop and picked up some belt scraps for this purpose and it only cost me about $6. It would probably been cheaper but I picked up quite a few pieces!
I even picked a small piece and trimmed it to fit into the Double stuff's leather pouch!
Like I said I'm thinking of going for an 8 inch Norton India stone and perhaps combine it with a strop.
I've done some reading on this site and the India stone seems like a good all-rounder and it is very affordable.
I have some questions though..
I've read they come pre soaked with oil but I would want to use them with water. If I boil them for 15 minutes will I be able to use it with water?
The Norton website is a broken mess, do they have a medium/fine combination stone? (some websites list them as medium fine but the picture is of coarse and fine.)
Is it suitable for cheaper steels like Victorinox, Aus 8, Chinese affordable steel? I'm a beginner so I will need more strokes then an experienced person, I don't want something which will wear down my blades fast. (like diamond)
It seems like a very good solution and I even found an 8 inch for 25 delivered in my country.
I've done some reading on this site and the India stone seems like a good all-rounder and it is very affordable.
I have some questions though..
I've read they come pre soaked with oil but I would want to use them with water. If I boil them for 15 minutes will I be able to use it with water?
The Norton website is a broken mess, do they have a medium/fine combination stone? (some websites list them as medium fine but the picture is of coarse and fine.)
Is it suitable for cheaper steels like Victorinox, Aus 8, Chinese affordable steel? I'm a beginner so I will need more strokes then an experienced person, I don't want something which will wear down my blades fast. (like diamond)
It seems like a very good solution and I even found an 8 inch for 25 delivered in my country.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,165
Like I said I'm thinking of going for an 8 inch Norton India stone and perhaps combine it with a strop.
I've done some reading on this site and the India stone seems like a good all-rounder and it is very affordable.
I have some questions though..
I've read they come pre soaked with oil but I would want to use them with water. If I boil them for 15 minutes will I be able to use it with water?
The Norton website is a broken mess, do they have a medium/fine combination stone? (some websites list them as medium fine but the picture is of coarse and fine.)
Is it suitable for cheaper steels like Victorinox, Aus 8, Chinese affordable steel? I'm a beginner so I will need more strokes then an experienced person, I don't want something which will wear down my blades fast. (like diamond)
It seems like a very good solution and I even found an 8 inch for €25 delivered in my country.
Probably better to soak in some solvent first and then boil it. Some cheaper steels are often harder (takes a carppy edge and holds it forever) so sometimes diamond is the only way to go. The secret to sharpening is knowing when to stop. There's no reason why a beginner needs more strokes, but I can understand why the process will be slower.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
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- 13,437
There is a Norton two sided "economy" stone sold at Home Depot's for less than $6 and I am told it is a good stone. I was also told to use it dry so you should try that!
I picked one up but havent used it yet as I am waiting on some user knives to sharpen!
I'll just add one thought: If you use this stone dry, make sure to clean it regularly (after each session). It does work quite well this way, but the metal swarf will very quickly clog it, if it's not kept clean. When not oiled, it's very easy to do so. Just give it a bath in water + liquid dish detergent, and scrub with an old toothbrush. The stone soaks up and holds moisture like a sponge, so it'll take maybe a day or so to completely dry out.
This is how I've been treating mine, and it's kept the stone in 'like new' condition. :thumbup:
Another option: Use the stone over a sink filled with water & detergent, as above. Periodically 'dunk' the stone in the sink while sharpening, and that'll keep the swarf rinsed away, and the stone will work faster and be essentially clean (with a couple more dunks) when you're done. Just rinse it thoroughly (hot water evaporates faster), soak up the excess 'drippage' with a towel, and set the stone out on it's edge, to allow air circulation for drying.
David
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I have to agree. I have two of them, one boiled out and one I left pre-loaded with oil. The first I used a lot initially with soapy water and it had to be lapped every so often to keep it running well. The second I used only with oil. The first will discolor from use, the second looks cleaner and more uniform than when it first came out of the box. Lots of folks use them with water and are happy doing so, but I highly recommend some mineral oil or similar. As I've pointed out before, Norton sells honing oil (a light grade of mineral oil) for use with their stones, they do not sell bottles of soapy water or similar, or recommend doing so. You can use a little bit of oil, or a lotta water. Can be used dry but will load up very quickly and require lots of cleaning and periodic lapping (in my experience) to keep it running well.
My problem is I have no idea what oil to use. I already spend an afternoon on the computer trying to figure out what you people mean by "mineral oil" for use as lubricant.
I know it's not the stuff you put in the pan like olive oil and it's supposed to be available at the drug store. I'm not planning to buy expensive oil on Ebay every time (high shipping cost)
BluntCut MetalWorks
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Apr 28, 2012
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Martin/HH, why oil is better than water in this case (and or possibly SiC stone too)?
In my usage observation with oil vs water AlO & SiC stones. With oil, I kept broken down abrasives & swarf on the surface longer than water, idk if that has anything with surface preservation & consistency of oiled stone surface. Fast cutting is the reason why I prefer using water and perhaps the sole reason for fast wear/dish... my 2cents.
edit: [the kid] - yes, cheap mineral oil from grocery & drug-store. e.g. Walgreens mineral oil (google it)
In my usage observation with oil vs water AlO & SiC stones. With oil, I kept broken down abrasives & swarf on the surface longer than water, idk if that has anything with surface preservation & consistency of oiled stone surface. Fast cutting is the reason why I prefer using water and perhaps the sole reason for fast wear/dish... my 2cents.
edit: [the kid] - yes, cheap mineral oil from grocery & drug-store. e.g. Walgreens mineral oil (google it)
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Look for 'Mineral Oil USP' in the pharmacy section at the grocery/drug store. It's commonly sold as a laxative, and therefore will be found in that aisle. In hardware stores, any simple 'light mineral oils' or 'white' mineral oils (basically implies the same thing) also work well. All of them are very inexpensive (if it's pricey, I'd avoid it anyway).
Picked up this 'Zoom Spout Oiler' at an AC/heating supply outlet. Can also be found at Home Depot/Lowe's in the A/C supply section with the filters, fan motors, water pumps, etc. Typically used for lubing bearings on AC/Swamp Cooler fan motors. Simply put, it's just 'white' mineral oil. Nice consistency/viscosity, completely odorless and it's worked very well for honing oil, for me. In this particular example, the bottle/dispenser has an extendable and thin tip, which makes it more controllable in application to your stones, and useful in oiling knives (pivots) as well. That was my primary motivation for buying it in the first place, as the oil itself is pretty standard stuff. This oil is essentially what you get in the branded 'honing oils' from sharpening stone mfrs. anyway. It's all just light mineral oil, for the most part.
Can also use baby oil, which is just light mineral oil with some scent added.
David
Last edited:
Thank you! Especially baby oil is something which translate directly (no particular brand) and I can ask for. And have nice smelling knives as well.:thumbup:Look for 'Mineral Oil USP' in the pharmacy section at the grocery/drug store. It's commonly sold as a laxative, and therefore will be found in that aisle. In hardware stores, any simple 'light mineral oils' or 'white' mineral oils (basically implies the same thing) also work well. All of them are very inexpensive (if it's pricey, I'd avoid it anyway).
Picked up this 'Zoom Spout Oiler' at an AC/heating supply outlet. Can also be found at Home Depot/Lowe's in the A/C supply section with the filters, fan motors, water pumps, etc. Typically used for lubing bearings on AC/Swamp Cooler fan motors. Simply put, it's just 'white' mineral oil. Nice consistency/viscosity, completely odorless and it's worked very well for honing oil, for me. In this particular example, the bottle/dispenser has an extendable and thin tip, which makes it more controllable in application to your stones, and useful in oiling knives (pivots) as well. That was my primary motivation for buying it in the first place, as the oil itself is pretty standard stuff. This oil is essentially what you get in the branded 'honing oils' from sharpening stone mfrs. anyway. It's all just light mineral oil, for the most part.
Can also use baby oil, which is just light mineral oil with some scent added.
David
The laxative oil is also a good tip but I rather not have to ask for it at the pharmacy. Even though I could say it's not for myself.
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I think there are a couple of things going on possibly. I use a pretty short stroke, the oil stays put on the stone surface for the most part and only starts to migrate away as I finish and have to stop, wipe, and observe more often. What I find is the oil actually suspends the swarf and stone debris off the surface, leaving the abrasive in much better shape during and after. One can observe this by looking at a drop of oil off a worked stone and comparing it to a drop of water off a worked stone - the oil will hold in suspension considerably more garbage. I go under the assumption that any grinding produces this debris, where it goes and how to manage it? Many options, use what works. Also, by using oil one can claim the mud for a hasty stropping compound.
As I mention, and I only have my own experience to go by, the surface on my stones with oil stays uniform and almost velvety. When I used to use water and soapy water, the surface would slowly develop areas where it had different "feels", I attributed this to the swarf and debris being worked into the surface and plugging and glazing. I would lap it with a loose grit and all would be well again, but not for very long.
The oil also seems to break down the vitreous bonds in a SiC stone and some of the less expensive AlumOx stones faster than water which gives a bit more of a waterstone effect. More uniform and somewhat finer scratch pattern, lessened burr formation - maybe all in my head...
I also feel I get better feedback but maybe that's all in my head too...
BluntCut MetalWorks
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Thanks Martin :thumbup: Clog/glaze surface could be a big factor between oil & water. My excess pressure sharpening style will destroy any sharpening stone surface anyway. I'll have to dig deeper into the water-lub stone surface to find fresh abrasives
I do have plans to clean it like you stated and already have a old toothbrush set aside! Thx.
I plan on cleaning it when done sharpening and no plans to use it over a sink filled with water and detergent cause if I wanted to do that, I would get a waterstone! LOL
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Thank you! Especially baby oil is something which translate directly (no particular brand) and I can ask for. And have nice smelling knives as well.:thumbup:
The laxative oil is also a good tip but I rather not have to ask for it at the pharmacy. Even though I could say it's not for myself.
The 'laxative' grade mineral oil is also sometimes called 'heavy' mineral oil, because it's a bit thicker (more viscous) in consistency. This is sometimes a factor to consider in deciding if you like it or not. But any one of these will get the job done.
David
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Lansky or Norton honing oil. You do not want to just grab any old mineral oil because it might be the heavier stuff. WD-40 is good, too.
don't use water. if you don't like oil, degrease the stone and use Simple Green.
don't use water. if you don't like oil, degrease the stone and use Simple Green.