I need help from serious knife people only

I just would like to know that its not going to dull out after chopping into hard wood or cutting against bone.

I will be taking it on dives and in the snow. I want to use it for everything from gutting fish to sparking flares off a firesteel.

It's going to be hard to find one knife to do all that. That's just the nature of blade steels: Spyderco makes fixed blades and folders out of H1 steel that flat out won't rust in salt water and would make great dive knives, but you might be disapointed with one of those if you try to chop hard wood with it. Likewise, a good chopping steel (which would probably be some type of carbon steel) is going to rust in salt water.

Ask anyone here, and I'll bet they will tell you: the first knife they bought thinking it would make a great all around survival knife probably got replaced by another knife once they learned, through experience, what they really needed out of a knife. You'll only learn by doing. For this reason, I advise you not to go out and pay hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a high-end production knife or a custom knife. Buy a couple or several good-quality but affordable knives and try out a bunch of different steels, blade styles, and manufacturers, and then after some in-the-field use, you'll learn what works best for you and you can tell a custom maker what you need in a design.

My personal favorites are the Becker Knife and Tool line being produced by Ka-Bar. You can get a BK2 from them for around 60 bucks, and it will do a lot of what you say you need a knife to do. I would argue that this is probably one of, if not the, best all around outdoor knife for that price point. It won't, however, be a good knife to dive with because it will rust. As I mentioned above, a Spyderco fixed blade in H1 steel would be an ideal dive knife, simply because it won't rust. I own one of their folding knives in H1 steel and have swam in salt water several times and have done nothing to the knife afterward and have had no rust. Granted, it won't slice as well as some other stainless steels, but it is truly stainless. Why the heck Spyderco does not make a neck knife out of H1 is beyond me, but that's a bit off topic.

Something else to note: very few experienced outdoorsman are going to go into the wilderness with just one knife on them, so you don't have to expect one knife to excel both at battoning through hard woods and fileting a salmon. You'll be better off with one large chopper with an edge around 7 to 9 inches in whichever type of carbon steel you prefer and then a smaller one in whichever stainless steel you prefer for more precise cutting tasks.
 
101 different answers.
101 different reasons.
101 different knives.

:D

You'll buy one and soon enough you'll see another, then another, then another without serrations, then one in satin finish, and so on and so on, welcome to the neverending story.
 
I can't recall any knife ever failing on me. For years and years I got by with only a Ka-Bar U.S.M.C. knife. I always liked how light and tough it was . I have a few of those mentioned above and like them but I think for a production knife of a decent size the Bark River Knife and Tool Aurora is becoming my grab and go knife. It just suits my needs and the way it fills my hands. Of course your mileage may vary.

Many of the steels offered now are very good, it may be more important to pick up a couple feel the balance, the edge and how aesthetically pleasing you find it.

Good luck, hit a knife or gun show and pick up a few. Buy used ones, you'll never loose any money because you can pretty much sell them for what you paid.

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The point of me starting this was to see if it were possible if at all to find such a knife. Naturally i would consider a specific knife just for diving if I had no other choice, but that would defeat the purpose of what I aim to find here. Im sure everyone here would agree that going out knowing that the tools they take with them are reliable and something they can trust to get the job done and that it is a nightmare to have your gear fail on you...and always at the worst time. Now i need a knife I know I can count on getting the job done regardless of the terrain or temperature. However, if it comes to me having to have a separate dive knife then I guess I have no choice but to comply.

Wilderness/survival knives (whatever that means to you) have a different set of requirements to a dive knife.

DK's need to be first and foremost corrosion resistant, in a secure sheath and if worn on the legs should preferably be lightweight - this is why some highend dive knives are made from titanium alloy - and before anyone chips in about Ti being too soft for a knife, Beta-titanium will harden to about 56RC. Dive knives also tend to be a bit thicker (pying) than would be ideal for filleting fish, although they will gut them OK

There are a lot of Busse fans here. I have never handled one so can't comment on their suitability for your purposes.

The sheath is an oft neglected aspect of knife carry and use and while I love leather, kydex is more practical. My W&S knife is a Falkniven F1 with custom kydex sheath and LMF firesteel. This knife took 8 years of development before becoming the survival knife for Swedish Air Force - rubber handle and SanMai laminated steel means it could also double as a dive knife. With the firesteel holder I have the option of swapping out the LMF for a sharpening diamond rod or steel but since I also carry a LM Wave with diamond file the LMF stays.

BRKT & RAT also make some great W&S knives but these weren't designed for diving.

I don't dive and for me snow is purely for skiing and aprés ski activities, but a folding saw (and/or axe/machete) for preparing firewood, F1+LMF & LM Wave for other tasks just about covers everything for my W&S cutting needs.
 
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All that matters is the user. How well he can prepare a knife for a hard use, and how he will maintain the blade during the hard use. Also the ways the users will go through to make it more comfortable, handy, and firm in the hand. You can't always 100% rely on your blade. You have to adopt yourself sometimes.
My point is that EVEN IF a knife can keep its sharpness to popping hair after days and months of abuse, unless the user/master of the blade knows how to resharpen it proper and keep it profiled, the blade will be useless once it gets dull.
 
Sounds to me like you're going to need stainless and 5.5" to 6.5" of blade. Handle material micarta or G10. For a well rounded knife that size I wouldn't go over 3/16 thickness. Drop point may be considered one of the best all-around shapes. The best grind...tough to say. You'll find many with strong opinions this way. I like hollow for slicing, flat or convex (tapered) for general purpose. I have both Fallkniven and Bark River and like both. Again, I'd suggest that you seriously consider the custom knife makers that participate in this forum.
 
The knife I want above all has to have the hardest steel in the market. I need it to be durable and strong and last through years of abuse but still be sharp. Naturally the second factor is its sharpness. IT HAS TO BE SHARP. Third is the functionality. Since this is to be used as a survival knife, it has to be portable so I am thinking a maximum of 8" tip to butt. It should chop, carve, skin, stab, etc etc etc. Looks and price are irrelevant. PLEAS HELP ME FIND A KNIFE.

Hard steels just become brittle, but hard edges...

Take a look at DiamondBlade Knives. Their edges are friction-forged and their claims of super hard, long-lasting sharpness hasn't been challenged. Their advertised knives kinda parrot your desires.

I can get away with regular tool steels, but if you want to lay-out the $, then these knives may be the closest to your demands.
 
Yes, but then he will need to hire a porter for it:D

Yea, no kidding. This is where blade thickness can hurt you unless you're into it. If you dig the prybar thing then by all means go for it, but I personally don't find anything over 3/16" to be useful in the OAL range that you're looking at.
 
If price is no object I would recomend talking to a custom maker, tell him what you want not us. As for the steel their are really 2 major kinds stainless, and carbon stainless is well stainless, but it not as tough, and not nearly as wear resistant. carbon is not stainless, but if you take care of it will be stronger and much more wear resistant. I would go for CPM M4 for a small knife you could take it up to 65 Rc and still have enough toughens to be used practical. lots of people say survival knives should be 4"-6" but for me it would have to be over 6", and probably under 9. as for the stay sharp quality a larger knife will stay sharper longer because it has more cutting area for instance an 8" knife will have approximately twice the wear resistance of a 4" knife. Serrations will also help your knife stay sharper longer, as they cut/saw/tear much more with out dulling as much, but they are really hard to sharpen
 
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A blade that is designed to stay sharp for long but is a pain in the butt to sharpen (harder steels) is not practical in a survival knife. A 1095 Carbon blade can get wicked sharp, hold it for decent amount of time and re sharpen quite easily because the edge tends to roll. Harder steels will chip and then its a real pain to get the edge back. 1095 is more prone to rust but will be fine if you oil it regularly. I recommend you look at Rat Cutlery, or Kabar/Becker
 
OK. First off, when at the Busse or Rat (official) sites the knives they offered were limited. I figure if they cant produce consistent products to support their business then that speaks volumes with regards to the product itself. I am sure that they both produce excellent knives but what good are they if i cant even find them on their site? Moving on. I have been doing A LOT of reading and have come down to FIVE knives. The following sequence is RANDOM and has nothing to do with preference.

1. Mission MPK10-Ti
2. Diamond Blade PD1
3. Fallkniven A1z
4. Fallkniven F1/3g
5. Mission MDK-ti

As of now, I am leaning towards the PD1 by diamond blade and the F1/3g by Fallkniven.

I look forward to your comments and suggestions.
 
I figure if they cant produce consistent products to support their business then that speaks volumes with regards to the product itself.

You couldnt be more wrong...And why on earth dont you invest in a dive knife for diving?
A dedicated dive knife has thicker stock for prying, blunt tip so you dont puncture or stab anything accidently, highly corrosionresistant blade and usually comes with a sheath thats designed for underwater use. A dive knife for diving is way better than a strapping a fallkniven to your gear and jumping in the ocean.

A solid outdoor blade in 1095 steel is tough and sharpens easily in the field and has a proven record for outdoor/survival use.
 
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DiamondBlade is hard to evaluate. Anyone can make claims for their own knives and early adopter enthusiasts will find lots to praise. But we rarely hear follow-ups or second-generation buyers. Not to say they have problems, but we don't have an experience base to offer the inquisitive buyer.

I like Mission Ti knives. Good dive knives, OK for some specific purposes. Not good general purpose survival.

Fallkniven makes good knives. I prefer harder handles than their rubbery regular offering, but you can get them in Micarta or have them modified with anything. And the soft handles are reliable.
 
Diving knives are very specialised. You should get a dedicated knife for that purpose.

As for 'survival' knives, you could pick any one of a hundred and be adequately prepared.

Personally, I would go for two items if you are serious about your outdoor lifestyle.

The first would be a Victorinox army knife. Pick the one you like best, but I recommend the One Hand Trekker as the most practical.

Secondly, a decent sized fixed blade with good steel and solid construction. I personally prefer a 7 - 9 inch blade. The SAK will do most of the light work, so the bigger blade will make heavy work that much easier.

Personally I am a fan of the Trailmaster by Cold Steel. Either the SK-5 or San Mai version, depending on budget. If it seems too big to you, then consider the Recon Scout, a smaller version of the knife.

But if you plan to swing on wood, the extra inch or two will come in handy. ;)

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