I need some advice guys!

L6steel

L6steel

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
5,855
Since I can't afford to buy a grinder it looks like I'll be building one, which I'm actually looking forward too! :) I cannot find any aluminum wheels to use for the drive and idler wheels on Ebay and they're a tad high if you buy em new. I don't have access to a metal lathe but I do have a wood lathe and got to thinking, why not make the wheels out of phenolic? The idler wheel on a Wilton is phenolic and it aint like the wheels are under any big pressure. I can turn phenolic on my wood lathe and make a set of wheels, even if it's a set to use just till I sell a couple knives and get the money to buy aluminum wheels. Whatcha think?? :D
 
your gonna poke your eye out!:eek: ha ha ha just kidding be carefull though i think you need a 1 dagree slope on the tracking wheel and idle to help keep it from wandering. if ya get it to work id be interested in a set
 
I think this will work all right, as long as you get a decent bearing in the idler. You can use some tape to add the crown instead of trying to cut it in on a wood lathe.
 
Not saying the shop teacher would approve,but........
at the lowest speed, aluminum can be turned on a wood lathe. I turn wood that is lots harder and tougher than aluminum.
Stacy
 
Alot of people do have wooden wheels that they have covered with rubber for the grinding wheel. Depends on how fast you want to run them and use wood or plywood sheets that you cut and balance.
 
the contact and idler wheels from the grizzly knife grinder are usable and reasonably priced.
 
i made my own belt sander and used old electric motor armatures for the idlers. just find one that is 2" wide and put a piece of innertube in the center to give the slope to keep the belt in place. for the contact wheel i used another armature and glued some 1/8" rubber on and smoothed it out with sandpaper. if you want i can email you some picks of my sander. i also have access to a metal lathe and i could possibly make your idler wheel out of aluminum if i can find a piece the right size.
 
I do have access to a metal lathe, but im not sure if i should cast my wheels, or buy 2" plate :confused:
 
if you have a metal lathe find a steel supplier and get steel round stock, Turning aluminum sucks. Let me revise that, doing anything with aluminum other than spinning or casting sucks, it gums up tools, bonds itself to the surface of cutters, tears, it's just nasty unpleasant stuff, I did aluminum fab for 6 months and hate the stuff. Steel turns nicely, finishes cleanly, and if you use apropriate feeds and cutters will make nice strong wheels that will hold their shape and not fly apart. your mileage may vary, but if I have to turn any metal steel is my first choice (caveat, I have a 5 horsepower 15"x 52" leblond lathe)

-Page
 
Mike, I'm sorry I can't help you with your grinder or the parts for one, but I am really glad you've decided to make knives again.

I hope you get what you need and that making knives gives you great pleasure.
 
I hope you get what you need and that making knives gives you great pleasure.

I will and it's gonna Phil!!! :)
I got all the steel today that I need to make the body and arms of the grinder.
I already had bearings from way back, just been sittin in a box waiting to be used.
Took my Smith 29 to the gun shop and sold it today to raise funds. Now I'm gonna find a good deal on a drill press! :D
Thanks guys!!!!!!!
 
This may sound like a silly question, but I'm starting to build a knife from bare steel up. I'm going to use an old belt sander I found at a yard sale to remove material. Will that work? Or will I need to modify it to make it a "grinder." Any and all information is appreciated. Thanks.
 
Bruce, if I were Mike and you made me that offer, I'd see you and Donna for breakfast. ;)
 
OK, Michael! I'll bite...

I seem to remember a discussion of converting a radial arm saw into a surface grinder... (That was buried waaaaaaaaaaaay back in the cobwebs!) :D

Craig
 
George G
yesd you can use a carpentry belt sander, they tend to run slower, they typically have obstructive structure around the belt platen, and no slack belt area. If you are using a home shop belt sander remove the plastic dust catchers, they collect grind sparks and burn through (ask me how I know) and make sure you clean off any wood sawdust (Got a friend who can attest to that one), on the other hand for doing a dead flat grind you can't beat the disc if it is big enough just watch the up side of the disc as it wants to grab and throw the blade at you.

-Page
 
Great to hear you are on the way back!!! I thought until I read through some posts that perhaps someone else had picked up your forum name. I have had a phenolic idler wheel on my grinder for about 15 years with lots of use. It does have bearings installed and the machine was a factor made job. I also used a drive wheel made of that material until I decided to go to a different size. It was an after market one. This is a 2 X 72 that I use almost every day. Hope this helps and looking forward to miore of your participation again. Frank
 
Bruce, I was checking out Booneville Miss. on the map the other day!!!! :D

CL, that idea sure got some good laughs around here, didn't it!!! :p

Frank, thanks for the info!! I was pretty sure the stuff would work, just wanted to ask first so if it blows up and mangles me I'll have someone else to blame. Lol!! Nawe, just nice to know it's been done.
 
Mike,before you go to all this trouble call me at 662-720-0193 or email me......If you make a trip I have something you might want and can save you allot of time maybe.or email me your phone number and I will call you( I have unlimited long distance to anyone) Seriously get ahold of me....
Bruce
 
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