I ruined my para :(

ctk123, sorry for the heartache, but it seems like you've got a good prespective on it and have a lot of good options. No, nobody is shooting at you or bulldozing your village, but this still sucks. I can empathise with you watching your unobtanium CPM D2 Para rot away -- this is a knife board after all. :) I am definitely with the others in saying that some 150-400-600-(1000?) on the flats and pivot area followed by a good resharpening, and your Para will be back in action.
 
I think I will contact Tom after the holidays, have him work his magic and maybe get a regrind while I'm at it. Thanks everyone!
 
Given the subject matter, I think everyone who's posted in this thread has been very civil and reasonable. That doesn't always happen. Part of that is the "good attitude" (I don't mean to sound patronizing) of the OP. Far too often you just see rants.

I am still very curious about how a CPM-process piece of steel could do that. It seems very inconsistent with the nature of the steel, as I understand it. (I'm talking about disintegration, not the fact that D2 can stain/corrode.)


ctk123, sorry for the heartache, but it seems like you've got a good prespective on it and have a lot of good options. No, nobody is shooting at you or bulldozing your village, but this still sucks. I can empathise with you watching your unobtanium CPM D2 Para rot away -- this is a knife board after all. :) I am definitely with the others in saying that some 150-400-600-(1000?) on the flats and pivot area followed by a good resharpening, and your Para will be back in action.
 
ctk123

I am going to be the first one to say this. If you cant save the Para and want to get rid of it. Send it to me! :D:D I will use it regardless! :D:thumbup:
 
What happened to Your para must have been a fluke I soaked mine overnight for a few days in various mixtures of vinager wine and mustard with no negative breakdown of the blade! Sorry about your para hopefully him can fix it up

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What happened to Your para must have been a fluke I soaked mine overnight for a few days in various mixtures of vinager wine and mustard with no negative breakdown of the blade! Sorry about your para hopefully him can fix it up

yeah, it was my third time, i would scrub some off, use it a couple days and do it again. then it happened :confused:

I have a feeling it will be back...
 
You know what?

Put that knife in a box, include a letter describing what happened and a $20 bill, and send it home to Spyderco.
Why?
Reason #1: Maybe they want to take a look at this strange effect of household vinegar to the steel, if only for the heck of it, and reason #2: they will grind that knife back to like-new again (without the logo and markings of course), fit the now slightly thinner blade back into the handle with a bit thicker washers, and your knife is better than new, with just twenty bucks spent. Maybe a phone call is in order before that to make sure that they will take care of it (which I don't doubt for a second).

Tom will basically do the same, but it is always a good feeling to get a knife back after taken care of directly by/from Spyderco.

Dennis
 
I looks bad, but as others have said, I think it's salvageable. If you decide to not send it to someone, I think it would be a great project for a weekend.

Clean it very well, and then go at it with sandpaper and metal polish.

I collect lots of old, rusted slipjoints, and I've made much, much worse look almost brand new. Take pictures of the steps, and have fun doing it.

You'll have some sharpening to do, but that's just part of owning a knife.

Good luck.
 
Just don't put any of that vinegar in your food anymore. If it'll do that to steel.. :D
 
Guys--- The knife was altered by the owner and damaged. Why should Spyderco cover that? No offense to the OP.
 
Guys--- The knife was altered by the owner and damaged. Why should Spyderco cover that? No offense to the OP.

i agree , even for a fee , i high doubt spyderco will consider a repair to a purposely ruined blade . personally i wouldn't even consider asking spyderco if it was my fault .


IMO , there are 2 options :
1. on your day off use steel wool and sandpaper to resurface it .
2. send it to someone like krein to do it for you .

lesson of the day : "be very careful if you try to purposely tarnish your blade , you might get more than you bargained for !!!"
 
I looks bad, but as others have said, I think it's salvageable. If you decide to not send it to someone, I think it would be a great project for a weekend.

Clean it very well, and then go at it with sandpaper and metal polish.

I collect lots of old, rusted slipjoints, and I've made much, much worse look almost brand new. Take pictures of the steps, and have fun doing it.

You'll have some sharpening to do, but that's just part of owning a knife.

Good luck.
Dennis, while they may be willing/able to clean up the visible portion of the blade and resharpen it, I'm not at all sure they'd be willing to go to the lengths you describe, even for the $20 service fee. Not to say there's no chance of it, just that nobody should expect it.

Guys--- The knife was altered by the owner and damaged. Why should Spyderco cover that? No offense to the OP.
Rolf, my read on most of the posts suggesting sending it back was that they assumed the OP would have to pay for the service. Spyderco does, when possible, repair damage from neglect, abuse, etc, for a fee. While that does not include replacing blades, it does include cleaning them up, when possible.

Paul
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yeah, it was my third time, i would scrub some off, use it a couple days and do it again. then it happened :confused:

I have a feeling it will be back...
I would suspect that may have been the problem. Your abrasive(s) may have left residue that more readily combined with acid, resulting in more agressive oxidation.
 
I think this forcing a patina stuff is just plain silly. A knife that will patina naturally (carbon steel) is fine, but forcing it? I have old slip joints that have patina, they took some time to get there just by doing everyday things.

This isn't the Antique Road Show, we're talking about new knives.

Vinny
 
I thin forced patina will protect the not quite stainless D2 (in my experience)

It will get some light gray streaking if used on acidic foods even without forcing a patina on it. I don't think it takes a dark patina like some carbon steels do.

Sverre
 
I think this forcing a patina stuff is just plain silly. A knife that will patina naturally (carbon steel) is fine, but forcing it? I have old slip joints that have patina, they took some time to get there just by doing everyday things.

This isn't the Antique Road Show, we're talking about new knives.

Vinny

I agree. I've considered forcing a patina before, but then questioned myself. Why not just use the knife and let the patina develop naturally?

You should always take care to clean your knives after any use that could damage them, so if you get rust it's your own fault.

After food duty on Thanksgiving day, my new Opinel No 6 has a beautiful dark patina. No forcing it, I just used the knife for what it was made for.
 
Thanks Paul! I never should have doubted Spyderco. Thanks.
Best of luck with your Para. :thumbup: It's my favorite Spyder.
 
I would suspect that may have been the problem. Your abrasive(s) may have left residue that more readily combined with acid, resulting in more agressive oxidation.

I wonder if that is the case. I used blue magic polishing cream lightly between the patinas. the knife was cleaned scrubbed and degreased with simple green prior to the patina.

And yeah, I would never expect spyderco, or any manufacturer to cover any of the repairs at their expense. I did what I did and will cover the costs of repairs/replacement myself.

I don't think I will experiment with forcing patinas again. my opinel has a great natural patina, but that is because it is carbon steel. cpm d2, while it will take one eventually, is stainless enough to not need one (at least for me, my blades are always clean).

This knife never had any problems before I started messing with it. I live in San Antonio where the air is humid and always kept the para in my right rear pocket, and never had any problems with rust or staining. I usually take good care of what I have, and the knife was always well maintained.
 
I think this forcing a patina stuff is just plain silly. A knife that will patina naturally (carbon steel) is fine, but forcing it? I have old slip joints that have patina, they took some time to get there just by doing everyday things.

This isn't the Antique Road Show, we're talking about new knives.

Vinny

I didnt have a choice but to force a patina on my D2 Para. The FL humidity was making it rust really fast.
 
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