I should of went with 1084! :D

[mccandmatt]

You have Park's 50 but used brine anyway?

No I did not have any #50. But I will order some up for next time

 

[mccandmatt]

There is so much really bad information ot there on youtube. Every noob with a camera seems to have a very authoritative looking video on youtube that is filled with bad ideas that sond great until you get even a basic understanding of metallurgy

-Page

I agree

 

[Don Hanson III]

No I did not have any #50. But I will order some up for next time

Mean time, try canola oil heated to around 130f. Thin 1095 should harden up fine.

Biggest mistake beginners make is over heating the blade when HTing with a forge.

 

[mccandmatt]

Mean time, try canola oil heated to around 130f. Thin 1095 should harden up fine.

Biggest mistake beginners make is over heating the blade when HTing with a forge.

Good tip I will try that, appreciate the advice!

 

[PT Doc]

... I did not spend much time at all on it...

I think that this is often the mother of many problems.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Stacy, what do you think of doing the first 7 seconds in brine, then the remainder in fast oil? I have done a few like this and had nice hamons. I haven't broken a blade since getting my pyrometer. I broke two before getting it, which prompted the purchase.

I am not a fan of it. It probably works to some degree, but if the blade is going to crack, seven seconds ins more than long enough. The main reason I don't like it is it may contaminate a very good oil with water. This is not good.

I use an interrupted quench with brine in a very similar way, though. Quench and count 1-2-3, pull out 1-2-3, back in till cool. This is a fairly standard yaki-ire procedure.

 

[quint]

Just to add from my hting today. Did 3 1095 EDC's in my forge. Quenched in parks 50. All 3 came out as quenched hardness of 67HRC which is about as good as your gonna get I imagine. It can be done but takes some patience and a fair amount of baby sitting. OK alot of baby sitting.